Woodland Scenics "Smooth it"

[Chris333]

OK OK  so I don't think the joint compound is all the way dry yet and it is shrinking. I'd have to put 2 or 3 coats on it which I really don't want to do. The driveways have to be .100" tall and if I had to do many coats the coloring would have to match perfectly. I like the texture and it would be good for a road.


Does this cement shrink?

What I need to build:
http://members.trainweb.com/bedt/indloco/errhs263.jpg

[bbussey]

Yes it works pretty well....wonder where you got that from!

Hey, I gave you credit up-thread!  And you don't make it easy finding the links to your old articles either!

Does this cement shrink?

What I need to build:
http://members.trainweb.com/bedt/indloco/errhs263.jpg

I haven't seen any shrinkage.  I think that would be a bad aspect of its primary purpose so I think you'd be safe, even with the 1/10th inch thick slabs.  I don't think you'd have a problem in using it for that portion of the yard, and I think you'll be very pleased with the final texture/color.

[SkipGear]

Chris,
 Are you using straight "Joint Compound" or are you using "Light Weight Spackle"? They are very different products. The LWS hardly shrinks at all. I've used it for it's intended purpose to patch large holes in the wall and fill in and level around drywall and it doesn't shrink. The LWS is about 50% microballoons and because of that, holds its size and shape very well, as well as not weighing much more than foam.

This is what I use:



http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100094504/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

Available at Home Depot around here.

[Chris333]

I just bought the regular stuff:
http://www.usg.com/images/products/joint-compounds/sheetrock/gal-sheetrock-all-purpose-joint-compound-01.jpg

[davefoxx]

I just bought the regular stuff:
http://www.usg.com/images/products/joint-compounds/sheetrock/gal-sheetrock-all-purpose-joint-compound-01.jpg

That joint compound will also crack, if slathered on too thick.  I prefer lightweight spackle for my scenery base, too.  In fact, if memory serves me correctly, I used tinted lightweight spackle to build the roads on "The Peanut," that small 2'x3' layout a built a couple of years ago.  Worked fine.  I applied the spackle over a cork roadbed base.

DFF

[wm3798]

Reread my post...  Add acrylic craft paint to mix in the tint, and water down the mix so it can be brushed on.  Virtually eliminates the shrinking and cracking.

Lee

[pnolan48]

I use the cheapest joint compound, or mud, that I can find. If it cracks, I just fill the cracks--and apply it thinner the next time. I like mud because it dries slowly by evaporation rather than all of a sudden by a chemical reaction. But then, I learned mudding during summers in college back in the 60s. Once dry, it's not all that heavy, as the water has evaporated.

I think the grain in concrete depends entirely on the materials. You can't "float" it in a mold. Portland Cement itself is very fine. Never thought of using it, but it would be very cheap, comparatively. I will consider using stucco as a base scenery for the reconstructed Portsmouth Branch, although joint compound and tan paint are hard to beat on cost.

[wm3798]

Portland is cheap as long as you have 9,000 projects to use the 80 lb bag on... Unless there's a contractor nearby..."Pardon me, but may I borrow a cup of your finest Portland cement?"

Lee

[MichaelWinicki]

Portland is cheap as long as you have 9,000 projects to use the 80 lb bag on... Unless there's a contractor nearby..."Pardon me, but may I borrow a cup of your finest Portland cement?"

Lee

Or ask a home improvement store if they have a ripped bag you can borrow from...

And no, you shouldn't rip it yourself.

[Bob Bufkin]

I got a bag many years ago and left it outside and put off the project I got it for.  Rained the next couple days and had one big lump of concrete which was a pain to move.

[MichaelWinicki]

I guess I'm not sure what you would gain by using real cement as opposed to say light-weight joint compound.   

[bbussey]

I guess I'm not sure what you would gain by using real cement as opposed to say light-weight joint compound.

The advantage is, you don't have to make it look real because it is real.  No shrinking.  No painting required and no trying to decide which commercially-available concrete color/finish is the best choice.  Realistic cracking if desired.  The anchoring cement is fine enough so that it scales down visually, it's inexpensive relative to the other mediums and the smallest container probably is enough to last through every need on a layout - roads, retaining walls, buildings, abutments, bridges, etcetera.

[Chris333]

Home from work with a tub of spackle and a HUGE tub of bolt anchor cement. Will do more testing.

[wcfn100]

If you get a chance Chris, please take a close up of the anchor bolt cement with an N scale person in front of it.  Or in your case, maybe an N scale auto right on top.

I have been curious how well the texture/grain will scale down. 


Jason

[Sokramiketes]

If you get a chance Chris, please take a close up of the anchor bolt cement with an N scale person in front of it.  Or in your case, maybe an N scale auto right on top.

I have been curious how well the texture/grain will scale down. 


Jason

Based on Ian's article it sounds like it can be as fine as you want.  Right down to it coming out too shiny when used in styrene forms. 

Or am I the only one that actually read Ian's article?