WM Western Lines Engineering Report

[Ian MacMillan]

Looking good Lee. What size tape are you using to mask the stripes?

I am a fan of Gorilla Glue, but as others have noted I have learned what amount I have needed to control expansion.I have found in some instances it to not be as strong as reported, but I see they now have a stronger formula out.

[wm3798]

I think it's 1 point, or 1/16".  I'll have to look at the package.  It's whatever I could get my hands on at Staples, since there are no more proper graphics supply stores on the planet.  I prefer to use something finer, but outside of ordering it on line and paying more for shipping than for the product, it's pretty hard to find.

Lee

[C855B]

I am a fan of Gorilla Glue, ... I see they now have a stronger formula out.

  In the polyurethane formula? They're marketing a CA, an epoxy and a wood glue out under the label, but these are nothing extraordinary.

The newer "dries white" glue is weaker and IMO has too little open time for anything more than quick spot repairs.

[wm3798]

Looks like I've got an opportunity for a drainage culvert there next to the road.  I'll have to have Ed thumb through some of those magazines in his sock drawer so he knows what it should look like.

Lee

[Ian MacMillan]

In the polyurethane formula? They're marketing a CA, an epoxy and a wood glue out under the label, but these are nothing extraordinary.

The newer "dries white" glue is weaker and IMO has too little open time for anything more than quick spot repairs.

I believe so. I saw it in the back of a magazine the other week. Can't remember which one for the life of me now. There was a red banner on the bottle saying something like improved stornger formula. I saw the dries white one too, but did not know it was weaker.

I constantly make "highway side" repairs of other officers knives where the belt/pocket clip screws loosen and it does not hold tightly. I was using Loctite red but found that to break its hold over time as well. I switched to Gorilla Glue, and it works so much better, but I found one that I have have to redo. The others are still rock solid...but I think that one may be attributed to stripped threads on the screws.

[mcjaco]

I'm quite familiar with Gorilla Glue... remember, I have a 100+ year old house...

LOL.

I found out the hard way with Gorilla Glue.  Tried fixing an old magnet that my wife cherished, and the glue expanded and oozed out the sides, a made a complete mess.  Into the trash it went...

[Ian MacMillan]

LOL.

I found out the hard way with Gorilla Glue.  Tried fixing an old magnet that my wife cherished, and the glue expanded and oozed out the sides, a made a complete mess.  Into the trash it went...

 
 I found out with T nuts for legs I was making for the Simonds IT. I put some GG around the nut sleeve when I pounded it into the leg, and then when I put the leveling bolt in I was like WTF wont this thing go in! (thats what she said) Took a socket wrench to get it in, and then a few turns in and out and all was good.

[DKS]

Although I avoid polyurethane glues like the plague, the Gorilla Glue CA formula is actually really good, IMO. I prefer it over any other thick CA I've tried. For one thing, it's really thick. It also dries relatively slowly, giving you some wiggle-room time. And when it sets, the adhesion is impressive. It now joins Brush-On Krazy Glue as my two preferred CA-based adhesives.

[Ian MacMillan]

Although I avoid polyurethane glues like the plague, the Gorilla Glue CA formula is actually really good, IMO. I prefer it over any other thick CA I've tried. For one thing, it's really thick. It also dries relatively slowly, giving you some wiggle-room time. And when it sets, the adhesion is impressive. It now joins Brush-On Krazy Glue as my two preferred CA-based adhesives.

I agree. I used it quite a bit when I was building my flooring tile rock walls a few months ago. It has now become my CA of choice.

[sizemore]

Lee

Can't. Stop. Staring.


The S.

[Pomperaugrr]

Can't. Stop. Staring.


The S.

+1 

Beautiful structure!

Eric

[davefoxx]

Lee,

I realize that the road where the future "culvert by Ed"  will be installed is likely only resting in place and not permanently installed.  So, when you do install it, allow me to make a suggestion.  Looking at the transitions between the road and the tracks, there's already a "bump" on the far side of the tracks that cannot be changed.  If the road on the near side joins the tracks at the angle it's in now, that makes for a really uncomfortable car ride.  I'd suggest flattening the road so that it is in the same plane as the wooden crossing, so there's only the bump on the far side.  In other words, remove some of the concave bow in the road.  It'll look better, too.

DFF

[Philip H]

or he could just drop the fascia end so cars going  downhill REALLY go downhill.   

[wm3798]

So, Dave, how much time have you spent driving across grade crossings in small Pennsylvania towns?

I believe in the metropolitan suburbs they call this sort of thing a "traffic calming device"...

[DKS]

Lee,

I realize that the road where the future "culvert by Ed"  will be installed is likely only resting in place and not permanently installed.  So, when you do install it, allow me to make a suggestion.  Looking at the transitions between the road and the tracks, there's already a "bump" on the far side of the tracks that cannot be changed.  If the road on the near side joins the tracks at the angle it's in now, that makes for a really uncomfortable car ride.  I'd suggest flattening the road so that it is in the same plane as the wooden crossing, so there's only the bump on the far side.  In other words, remove some of the concave bow in the road.  It'll look better, too.

DFF