0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Probably a good option. GMM has some on their GP fret that cold maybe be used. There will be some limitations.You can make louvers by hand. I can repost the setup I used for my NW-2 louvers if you are interested. It's not hard, it just takes some patience and a micrometer.Jason
Here are the tools and a sheet of .005" styrene.Using the micrometer I set the triangles postions within the square. The first measurement is arbitrary, I started at .9".Then I scribed the grooves using three medium passes. It take a little practice to get the feel. I try and keep the blade edge at a 45 which makes the backside of the utility blade 90 to the styrene and flush against the triangle. You can use different angles if you find one the works well and doesn't leave a bunch of styrene residue. Just be consistant with that angle or the louvers won't be all the same size. From there, it's a matter of resetting the triangle with the micrometer. In my case I used .0145" as my increment, but would make it smaller if I had to do it again since the louvers ended up being a bit on the large (tall) side. I just hope there is enough of a 'letterboard gap' to fit the decal.Carefully cut out the louver strip using the first scribe you made as the base - meaning make sure it's a nice stright cut. The individual louvers are cut using 'the chopper'.If nothing else, maybe someone will come up with a better or easier way based on what I did. And FWIW, positioning them isn't too difficult since you have a lot of parallel references on the doors. I could have done a little better job had I used a slower setting adhesive.
Author
Topic: Etching question - N&W RS11 "louver boxes" (Read 2690 times)
