Z Buildings & More

[Gyroflyer]

Hi again,

I hope this isn't just me but I've found myself having a hard time finding nice little building for Z. I know Z is just coming around more but just wonder if they make buildings from the US like the Cornerstone series for Z? Good ol' plastic kits. Also, where and the heck do you find a truss bridge?

I really didn't think it would be this tough to find things for Z but maybe I haven't looked hard enough.

Mark

[DKS]

Good ol' plastic kits. Also, where and the heck do you find a truss bridge?

No plastic kits. Sorry. Way too costly to tool up plastic kits for a tiny market like Z. It's all etched brass and laser cut wood (oh, and a little cast resin for good measure).

Truss bridges? There are a couple of brass kits you can build.

Start here for information on who makes what:

http://americanzscale.org/list.asp?t=1

[Chris333]

Have you seen those sweet bridges Robert Ray layered up? I imagine it won't be long before he or someone else turns them into a kit.

[DKS]

Have you seen those sweet bridges Robert Ray layered up? I imagine it won't be long before he or someone else turns them into a kit.

Yes, but I wouldn't count on seeing them as kits. Ray does some of that stuff just for himself.

[Gyroflyer]

Thank you guys for your replies. I've never built anything other than plastic kits. I guess I'm going to learn how to do brass and wood now. Also, looks like I start scratch building a little too.

Mark

[tom mann]

There are enough building kits in Z scale to last you a lifetime - but in my opinion, few that look like rail served industries.

[Gyroflyer]

Hit the nail on the head Tom.LOL

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Although, I just saw one from RS Laser Kits that looks pretty solid:
Do a control-f for "transfer" it's down near the bottom.
http://www.rslaserkits.com/Z-Scale.html

[Gyroflyer]

Nice stuff Ed. Since I've never build any laser kits, I'm just going to jump ahead and ask. What type of glues do you use/prefer for these?

[DKS]

What type of glues do you use/prefer for these?

Myself, I prefer thick CA. I use a version that comes in a bottle with a brush in the handle. Kits go together like lightning: hold the parts in position, brush it on, wait maybe 2-3 seconds, and continue.

Other hardcore laserkit builders prefer white or carpenter's glue. While it makes for good strong joints, I find it takes too long to dry to suit my tastes, and sometimes these glues will warp smaller parts, requiring clamping or other fussy preparation.

Although, I just saw one from RS Laser Kits that looks pretty solid:
Do a control-f for "transfer" it's down near the bottom.
http://www.rslaserkits.com/Z-Scale.html

Yes, Salem Transfer and Storage.

http://www.rslaserkits.com/Images/Z/4036A.jpg

I do think however that the architectural style somewhat limits its application, but only somewhat.

We could use much more of this sort of structure.

http://1-220.blogspot.com/2010/11/not-railroady-enough.html

[Sokramiketes]

Myself, I prefer thick CA. I use a version that comes in a bottle with a brush in the handle. Kits go together like lightning: hold the parts in position, brush it on, wait maybe 2-3 seconds, and continue.

Sounds fast!  Does the CA soak through the joint?  Or are you just putting a glue fillet on the inside corner of the joint?  The picture in my head doesn't show any glue on the two faces that touch with this method, just the glue acting like it's own structural "piece".

Other hardcore laserkit builders prefer white or carpenter's glue. While it makes for good strong joints, I find it takes too long to dry to suit my tastes, and sometimes these glues will warp smaller parts, requiring clamping or other fussy preparation.

I wouldn't say I'm hard core, but I usually do use carpenters glue.  With the small amounts and porous wood, I find it sets just as quick as super glue.  I hold the glued parts in place for maybe 30 secs and then move on.  But, super glue never sets in the 10-15 secs thats its supposed to for me either, unless i'm using accelerator, which just makes it more brittle.  I've never noticed warping on the laserkits I've put together with carpenters glue either. 

[DKS]

Sounds fast!  Does the CA soak through the joint?  Or are you just putting a glue fillet on the inside corner of the joint?  The picture in my head doesn't show any glue on the two faces that touch with this method, just the glue acting like it's own structural "piece".

For internal joints, I apply a fillet to the inside of the joint. The CA does usually get drawn into the joint, however, and it sets almost instantly and is very strong; I can usually move on to the next joint almost immediately. For visible joints, I either apply it with a knife tip or needle, or brush it on one part and pop it in place, assuming I can work fast enough. Most kits just seem to fly together.

I wouldn't say I'm hard core, but I usually do use carpenters glue.  With the small amounts and porous wood, I find it sets just as quick as super glue.  I hold the glued parts in place for maybe 30 secs and then move on.  But, super glue never sets in the 10-15 secs thats its supposed to for me either, unless i'm using accelerator, which just makes it more brittle.  I've never noticed warping on the laserkits I've put together with carpenters glue either. 

I've never found water-based glues to set anywhere near as fast as CA, and it's often a bit harder to control the amount of glue applied so that there isn't excess oozing out. And if I keep it down to the point where there isn't excess, often the joint isn't very strong. But I suppose it's all a matter of skill, and I've just never mastered the use of carpenter's glue for much of anything except benchwork assembly. I've been using CA for more and more stuff, including cardboard, cardboard or wood to styrene mix, etc., although styrene to styrene I still mostly use solvent. About the only thing I don't use CA for is metal, if I can avoid it; I've acquired a major preference for soldering wherever practical, and for joints that need strength that I can't solder, I'll use epoxy, although this is fairly rare.

[DKS]

BTW, here's the CA I use. I was talking with Rick Spano last night, and his opinion is that it isn't "thick." But it's not thin like plain CA, either. Whatever; it's by far my favorite bonding agent, and the brush is a brilliant addition to the product. I've gone through four bottles of the stuff. I like the smaller bottles, too, as the bigger ones (like those jumbo jugs of "Zap-A-Gap") always go bad long before I can use them up.

[Sokramiketes]

I'll have to try some of that. 

[Gyroflyer]

I've never seen it with a brush. I use CA's for r/c's and it sounds like the thick would be the choice. Can't wait to do one of these kits.

Also, is there a prefered laser kit that you would recommend? Having never done this type of kit, some must be better quality (such as fit) than others.