Painting Stainless Steel Passenger Cars

[SkipGear]

The Testors metalizer paints come in two varieties, buffing and non-buffing. The buffing does look much better. I use Alclad for both trains and RC painting. The RC Chrome is Chrome. It looks better than he chrome on a lot of new cars. The trick to the Alclad is the use of gloss black primer. The Alclad is paint is so fine that takes on the finish of whatever you spray it over. The shinier the finish on the primer, the better your metal finish will be. I don't clear the Alclad and have no problems with finger prints.

This HO building was my first experiment with it....



The countertops and posts on the stools were done with Alclad Chrome...

[kiwi_al]

I'm another advocate of Alclad. The picture of the E3 has Alclad2 Stainless Steel shot over gloss black. It looks better in person.

[FP45Tony]

Hello Crew,

These two Budds were metalized with Alclad 2 Chrome, and lightly weathered. However, a different base color was applied to each car. Amazing what a difference the foundation makes!  I was made aware that there have been ongoing "web" arguments with how the sheens of Budd, Pullman Standard, and ACF appear.  The answer is that it's varied due to age, care/neglect, weather, etc. Add to that, photos in books/magazines are often edited. In some photos, Post WWII Budd and PS cars look almost "white", yet in some other shots the sheen appears quite dark.

But instead of making this issue a brain-buster, we should try to keep this simple.  A friend of mine prefers the "worn, whitish look" that so many passenger cars had just before Amtrak.  However, my point to him was that railroads like the Santa Fe, Southern, and SCL had many cars that still had a beautiful darker stainless steel sheen to them.  That's my preference. However, based on my experiments, I respectfully suggest that anyone can have both by using the base colors I've experimented with below.

1) Walthers Budd Diner refinished and decaled into the Seaboard Coast Line Railroad scheme. Diner name: St. Petersburgh (ex-ACL).   Base foundation color underneath Alclad 2 #ALC-107:  NEW YORK CENTRAL DARK GRAY. I'll talk more about base colors later on this thread.

Indoor:    

Outdoor:       

OK, now here's a photo of a prototype SCL passenger train with Budd cars: (photographer: Martin K O'Toole)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 Weather worn effect:

2) Rivarossi Budd Coach metalized and decaled into Seaboard Coast Line Railroad scheme.  Coach prototype number: 5211 (ex-Seaboard Air Line). Base foundation color underneath Alclad 2 #ALC-107:  NEW YORK CENTRAL LIGHT GRAY.

Indoor Photo:

Outdoor Photos:  

[FP45Tony]

Here is the updated procedure that I've been working with for metalizing plastic shells:

I no longer use black for a foundation base color, as in the past: Based on my experimenting, I now use either New York Central Dark Gray (deep sheen effect) or New York Central Light Gray (faded sheen effect).

1. After paint stripping your shells, wash them thoroughly in soapy water. Scrub gently with a soft toothbrush. Dawn or Ivory Liquid soaps work very well and leave no residue.

2. Make sure the surface is SMOOTH and doesn't feel slippery. It's preferable not to scuff the surface unless absolutely necessary. If so, "very lightly" scuff the surface in a horizontal direction with either a 3M gray scotch pad (available at most Home Depots)or 3M 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper.

3. Mask off the interior walls and all window openings. Final clean the surface with wax/grease remover.

4. Air brush needle size should be either medium or fine. Apply 1 to 2 thin coats of high gloss gray paint to the exterior. For Scale Coat paint, Mix 1 part thinner to 1 part paint (50/50).  Air Pressure for Scale Coat 2 set at 20-25 psi.  Practice applying the gray on scrap styrene or junker rolling stock first. The key here is that the final finish appear very smooth and slick. If you're using an acrylic, apply 1 to 2 gloss coats of clear. Allow the finish to cure thoroughly. With SC-II, I now give it 3 to 4 days. For acrylics, it's good to play it safe and wait at least one week.

5. Alclad II Chrome step: Airbrush needle size: FINE works best! I no longer recommend "medium" as in the past. (for Paasche, fine would be a #1 needle) Air pressure: between 12psi and 15psi. The fan width should be very narrow. Air brush distance to shell: 1 to 2 inches. Stroke Speed: medium speed. Not slow, not fast.

5a.Lightly spray each of the sides and roof in long strokes, as if you were using a slim paint brush. Do not dump it on! If you missed a spot, don't worry. Catch it on the next coat. After your first coat, wait 10 minutes. Yes, it looks transparent-dark gray, don't worry, that's normal. Wait 10 minutes. Remember, if you dump it on, you'll be gritting your teeth. (yes, ask me how I know!)

5b. Apply your 2nd Alclad coat, same technique as above. Make sure you get into the little crevices around the diaphrams (I don't bother removing mine). After you finish this 2nd coat, WALK AWAY from the shell and don't look at if for at least 15 minutes. Come back and check it out. If it's still a bit dark, apply a 3rd thin coat of the Alclad. You'll likely be smiling when you finish. Don't worry if it looks too shiny. If a 4th coat is needed, apply it with a slightly faster stroke.

6. Wait 1 to 2 days. Apply even coat of acrylic based Gloss Clear coat. This will tone the shine down slightly. If using solvent based clear, wait at least 3 days. For clears I prefer acrylics.

7. Apply your decals. You can use Microset normally to move decals into postion, however, apply the Microsol lightly around the decal edges.

8. Now for your "sheen effect": Apply another thin coat of gloss clear to seal your decals. Your model's finish should be similar to my Walther's finish.

8a. Decision time. If you want your cars finish to appear more "aged" then add another coat of gloss clear, and so forth until you get the weathered sheen desired.  Don't over do it or you'll wind up with a  finish that looks similar to a floquil silver .

However before toning down the sheen too much, check photos of the prototypes. The Santa Fe, Atlantic Coast Line, Southern, and CB&Q did a nice job of maintaining their streamlined cars' overall appearances.

[FP45Tony]

Here's some other work I've done in the past: 



I was just so glad to see this thread. I've posted these on other forums and have been excited that there is a way to make scale corrugated streamlined passenger cars have a realistic, stainless steel look to them using products and steps that anyone that can use an airbrush can use.

I model HO, but this is useful for any scale and any smooth plastic or metal surfaces.   

[FP45Tony]

Some additional info that may help.

A modeler communicated to me that he purchased Alclad's "Stainless Steel" formula (#ALC-115) and was not happy with his results. Understandably, his thinking when he purchased it was "OK, this is stainless steel paint".  Well, yes, he was correct!  There was nothing wrong with that Alclad formula. It does resemble stainless steel, HOWEVER, it features BRUSHED Or SATIN finish after it's clear coated.  It's the type of finish that you'll see on many of the stainless steel appliances  and tool boxes sold today. Also very common in professional restaurant kitchens, and the panels on traffic signal circuit boxes. Fair enough.

But we pursuing the highly polished, "reflective and/or mirror"stainless steel finish, just like the prototypes.  The Budd Company, Pullman Standard and ACF prided themselves on the polished mirror-like reflective qualities of their streamliners.

To imitate this highly reflective finish, it's a better choice to go with the Alclad  #ALC-107 forumla, instead of the #ALC-115.  YES, THE 107 BOTTLE SAYS CHROME.  In the scale model automobile/truck/motorcycle hobbies, #ALC-107 is well liked for the deep chrome effects it gives off on scale model bumpers, air cleaners, engine valve covers, tail pipes, etc.

http://www.alclad2.com/finishes/highshine.html

However, on our passenger rail cars once we begin clear coating over the #107, this chrome formula tones down to an appearance that more closely resembles highly polished SS.  From my experiments on passenger cars, I've had success with both, acrylic and lacquer clears on top of the Alclad Chrome.

After metalizing and allowing a cure time, spray one thin, smooth gloss coat of clear to apply your decals on to (I prefer to spray the entire body instead of just the areas to be decaled....but that's my preference) . Allow to cure, then install decals.  After decaling, apply one smooth gloss clear coat to the entire body and you're done if you want that "new look". To age the finish, add additional gloss or semi-gloss clears but don't go overboard!

Not trying to be a smart aleck, but if you're like a friend of mine who seems to want his passenger cars' sheen to look so worn that fireworks flashes won't even reflect off of it, then go with floquil silver![+o(]

But remember that many of the corrugated cars from the "rolling wreck" we call the Penn Central had shine to them and were not totally dull:

Penn Central parlor car photo credit: Bob Redden

As stated before, this is an example of how we model railroaders as a group often take a product intended for one purpose and successfully adapt it for an application not originally thought of by the manufacturer.  It's one of the aspects of this hobby that makes it so cool.

Applying the Alclad Chrome on to passenger cars was not my idea. It was from a Model Railroader article back in 2003 ( July? August?) in which the author refinished a pair of N-scale RDCs. I'd love to shake his hand and tell him that I hope he knows what he's started.  I'll have to dig into my magazine box to look for that issue. Anyone know his name?  
 

Hope this has been helpful

 

[Ian MacMillan]

Damn helpful!

[bbussey]

A most people here and on the N-ScaleVarnish list prefer the Alcad chrome over the stainless steel, but I prefer the stainless steel even after clear coating is applied and after the cars are weathered.  It simply looks more like true stainless steel to me, which just it isn't as bright as shiny polished chrome in real life.  When under bright light, the stainless reflects beautifully, and it allows more of the relief detail on the model to be visible.  To me, the chrome looks like the nickel-plated brass models of the 1980s - nice and shiny, but not prototypically correct.

To get the "mirror finish" desired, you use Alcad's thin high-gloss black base paint instead of any other brand of black gloss.  The finish of the black paint itself is almost like a "black chrome" finish, which gives the thin stainless steel topcoat both it's mirror-like finish and it's depth of detail.

Below is the pilot model mock-up for one of the ESM passenger car sides that was painted in Alclad stainess steel over the Alcad gloss black base coat.  My advice is to try both the chrome and the stainless steel and see which you prefer.

[FP45Tony]

A most people here and on the N-ScaleVarnish list prefer the Alcad chrome over the stainless steel, but I prefer the stainless steel even after clear coating is applied and after the cars are weathered.  It simply looks more like true stainless steel to me, which just it isn't as bright as shiny polished chrome in real life.  When under bright light, the stainless reflects beautifully, and it allows more of the relief detail on the model to be visible.  To me, the chrome looks like the nickel-plated brass models of the 1980s - nice and shiny, but not prototypically correct.

To get the "mirror finish" desired, you use Alcad's thin high-gloss black base paint instead of any other brand of black gloss.  The finish of the black paint itself is almost like a "black chrome" finish, which gives the thin stainless steel topcoat both it's mirror-like finish and it's depth of detail.

Below is the pilot model mock-up for one of the ESM passenger car sides that was painted in Alclad stainess steel over the Alcad gloss black base coat.  My advice is to try both the chrome and the stainless steel and see which you prefer.

I understand your point.  The KEY here is NOT to use the gloss black base but to use gray bases instead. This avoids the "NICKEL PLATED" finishes that you're referring to. 

I've had the fortune of living near a major rail line where I've had access to Budd passenger cars.  Try this:  Take a piece of styrene and coat it with gloss black and apply the Alclad stainless steel that you refer to (should be formula 115).  Then apply NYC dk gray to another piece, NYC light gray to yet another piece.  Apply Alclad Chrome #107 and seal it with 3 coats of gloss clear or 2 coats of semi-gloss clear.  Walk up to an Amtrak Heritage car (baggage and lounges are still in service) and compare the samples in the sunlight.  I think that you may be surprised by the results. The Alclad Chrome will likely win hands down.  

Look at the photo above of the Walthers diner I metalized and of the prototype SCL sleeper next to it.  But yes, I totally agree that modelers need to experiment, which is what makes this so much fun.  

[bbussey]

I don't doubt you can credibly simulate the various stainless steel finishes using Chrome and the methods you described.  I was pointing out that the new mirror finish is possible by using the product as designed, which is how you avoid the "brushed or satin" finish you stated in your first post.  Your methods work for you and appear to be a good option based on your photos.  But the as-designed method yields excellent results as well.

[One of One-Sixty]

Thank you guys all of you, FP45Tony thank you for your detailed method, and welcome to the forums. 

As stated in my initial post, I have a bunch of old B-mann Amfleets and Metroliners as well as some newly acquired ones (Thanks Drew) that I will be repainting.  I am going for either B-mann's newer SS finish or Kato's SS finish.

[FP45Tony]

No disagreement there, Bryan.  But part of the reason I referred to the gray colored bases is due to the research I've performed regarding Budd, Pullman Standard, and ACF streamliners which can drive passenger car modelers crazy sometimes.

If you look at a lot of the publicity photos of streamliners dating from the 1940s-late 50s, the streamlined cars almost always looked perfectly uniform, either very light or very dark due to lighting conditions and photo editing. But then, look at the photos taken from railfans and one will notice that even when brand new the corrugated streamlined cars from the "Big 3" varied with ACF being the "whitest", Pullman Standard the darkest with a slight bluish hue, and Budd right in between. This was confirmed by passenger car expert, James Langston (who works for CSX as a manager). So this was not just a case of photo film quality or camera lens filters, as many of us had thought.  I pointed this out on other forums, and now some of those passenger car modelers are doing their research as well and some of them are giving this method a try.  

I started experimenting with a variety of dark and light gray tones and discovered that I was able to more closely match the varying finishes on the prototypes; from "well taken care of" like the Canadian's VIA Budd cars, to the extremely worn out appearance of a car "almost ready for the scrapper".   My preference, of course, is the polished appearance of SCL's cars. SCL maintained their high quality service right up until the end as in the 1st 2 photos:



  
I've taken passenger car shells that I've metalized to various modelers and asked for their blunt criticism so that I can fine tune this and share this with other modelers.    Although I worked with stainless steels in my career field, I will never claim to be an expert.  I just simply want to encourage my fellow passenger car modelers to experiment and share their results, whether they use this method or a different method.

[FP45Tony]

Thank you guys all of you, FP45Tony thank you for your detailed method, and welcome to the forums.  

As stated in my initial post, I have a bunch of old B-mann Amfleets and Metroliners as well as some newly acquired ones (Thanks Drew) that I will be repainting.  I am going for either B-mann's newer SS finish or Kato's SS finish.

Hi, One of 60 and thank you for the Welcome

Respectful suggestion, though. Go for the finish that looks best to you. Neither Bachmann nor Kato's finish are metalized. They're both in silver paint.

Here are a few Metroliner shells that I've been working on.  My goal is to finish 4 of them into the Penn Central scheme (I grew up in that era) and one into the Pennsylvania Railroad scheme with the Pennsy Keystone symbol.  I applied a dark gray base.  They're still shiny here as they haven't been toned down with clear coat yet.




Prototype photo:

[amato1969]

Has anyone tried these acrylic metallic paints?

http://www.hawkeyeshobbies.com/talon-acrylic-paints.htm

I stick to acrylics in my airbrush and these may fit the bill, with a nice, fine grain.

[FP45Tony]

For those that didn't see it (posted this on another thread) click on the link below and look at the YouTube video clip.  Check out the sheen on the prototype Budd cars on this train.  It is very nice!  

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlX2RF9UWQ0