Best Of Post your favorite weathering work!

[only1rcpro]

This Athearn N scale covered hopper has only had the wheels replaced.  It was given a thinned down fade/grime coat.  additional grime was built up along the edges and corners over about three applications then washed down or diluted with alcohol.  Rust patches were then rubbed in with chalk and sealed with hairspray.
  I am still new to this.  How do i include a picture in the body of my reply instead of as an attachment?

[GaryHinshaw]

Thanks only1.  Here's a generic example of including an image in your posts.  First upload your image to a web site like Picasa and get the URL for the image, then wrap it in the "img" tag like this:

Code: [Select]

[img]http//my_website/my_image.jpg[/img]
Hope that works for you.

This is phenomenal Jeremy.

-gfh

[elogger]

thanks gary!



jeremy

[Coxy]

Gary et al., the weathering methods on the hoppers were:

• Airbrush fade with dilute acrylic transparent zinc white
• Wash with dilute India ink in rubbing alcohol to bring out detail
• Wash with pale brown acrylic to add grime
• Puddles of runny oil washes in turpenoid to create the roof rust patches
• For streaks I put small dabs of oil paint along the top edge of the sides then 'pulled' the paint down with a flat brush damp with turpenoid

For the roof rust, I applied small irregular pools of burnt umber in turpenoid wash with a soft brush.  I then added raw umber in turpenoid wash into the centers of the burnt umber pools to create the dark rust areas and let it dry (~1 hour). The pools can be pushed around with a damp brush for a little while to add some randomness but as the wash starts to dry, it thickens and small bare patches result from poking with the brush. Adding a little more wash fixes any bare patches that get created.

Here's a shot of the cars with the roof washes applied.



This is my first attempt at streaks using oils. I REALLY like how easy it is. The dabs of raw and burnt umber oil paint leave darker streaks if they are left to dry a little for a few minutes. My biggest issue is pulling the brush down straight from the paint dab to the bottom of the car - I hook and slice most times! Goofs are easily corrected or erased using a brush damp with turpenoid.  The streaks were buildt up in layers, I'd do some on one car and set it aside. By the time I did a few streaks on the other car,the first was dry enough to do more rust streaks. 

Turpenoid is cheap, odorless and dries quickly, though make sure you have good ventilation while working with it.

Cars feel waxy where the oils have been applied unlike acrylics.  I can still smell solvent after two days so I'll give them a few days before sealing.

There's lots more pics of the process on my flickr site
http://www.flickr.com/photos/coxsj/

Cheers, Steve

[GaryHinshaw]

Thanks Steve.  I need to try some oils too, given what folks like you are saying.  Is turpenoid the same thing as turpentine?

-gfh

[Coxy]

Gary,  No, it's labeled as a turpentine substitute. It's a clear and colorless liquid and has no odor. Turpentine may work for weathering too, but you'd have to be okay with the smell and it has a yellow hue which would likely show up in your work.  A quick check on the web suggests turpentine is for house painting, while turpenoid is for artists using oil paints. I picked up a 4oz bottle at Dick Blick Art Supply for about $3.50.

It's great to work with, just make sure you have plenty of ventilation.

[Subwayaz]

Here are some of my recent adds to the weathered fleet in HO

[ednadolski]

this is my latest... i really like the way it turned out and it's probably my 2nd favorite car that i've done...

Incredible, Jeremy!  For the streaks did you use the same oils/mineral spirits approach as on your awesome IATR boxcar?

Ed

[ednadolski]

This is my first attempt at streaks using oils. I REALLY like how easy it is. The dabs of raw and burnt umber oil paint leave darker streaks if they are left to dry a little for a few minutes. My biggest issue is pulling the brush down straight from the paint dab to the bottom of the car - I hook and slice most times! Goofs are easily corrected or erased using a brush damp with turpenoid.  The streaks were buildt up in layers, I'd do some on one car and set it aside. By the time I did a few streaks on the other car,the first was dry enough to do more rust streaks.
 

I'm still learning with the streaks.  I usually end up removing too much, or making the streak run the entire height of the car & not tapering off toward the bottom.  I've been trying with a barely damp brush and using a very light touch - that seems to help sometimes but I still haven't really learned to control it well.

BTW what kind of brush do you use for streaks?  Round/flat, natural/synthetic, etc?

Thanks,
Ed

[elogger]

ed!

no, on this one i dry brushed the streaks... i found that i was able to get more of that color graduation from top to bottom if i layered the paint a bit and then kind of brushed from the bottom of the car up towards the top... brushing more at the bottom than at the top and ergo taking more paint off the bottom of the streak...

i still use the spirits on most of my pits though and i am working on another evans car right now that i am using the spirits for some of the streaks... i have found that they are great if you really want to control your streak... or if you make a boo boo and need to clean an errant dab of paint up...


jeremy

[Coxy]

I see the same things you do Ed. 

A lot of times I used a second down stroke only to find the entire streak disappeared. I found that giving the small paint dabs a few minutes of drying time improved results. I guess the paint thickens a little as it drys which allows it to adhere better to the surface of the car.  It probably matters too to have a surface with some tooth from the fade or grime layers. I have not tried to put streaks on the raw plastic surface.

I have mainly been using a 1/4" stroke synthetic watercolor brush.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/princeton-good-synthetic-golden-taklon-brushes-series-4350/

I also used an 1/8" sable one-stroke brush to clean up some of the uglier looking streaks.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/princeton-best-synthetic-sable-one-stroke-series-4050st/

My present theory is that you want the bristles to form a narrow line on the surface of the car. The thicker the line of bristles contacting the car, the more the bristles dam the paint which causes lateral smearing of the paint dab and the brush will be able to drag the paint dab further down the side of the car in a broad, indistinct streak. If the contact points of the bristles form a very thin line, the paint dab will not be held by the brush so well and it will be more easily left behind the brush forming a shorter, more prominent streak.

Bending the bristles down onto the car side, although making it easier to pull down straight, produces weaker streaks and a stiff bristle square ended brush with a thin tip can produce more prominent streaks provided you can pull it down straight!

A paint dab that is thicker in the middle will produce more of a triangular streak as when you pull down, the paint on the edges of the dab run out first while the paint from the middle goes further down the car side. I got this effect by applying about a 1/4" wide dab of oil paint then added an additional dab in the middle of it to create the more-paint-in-the-middle profile.  You can get nice effects using different color paint - wider burnt umber dab with a dot of raw umber in the middle can produce a nice streak with a dark center and rusty red edges.

Not sure how the dampness of the brush affects things but I would not be surprised if you get different results if the brush is on the wet or on the dry side.

I'm encouraged enough to chase more consistent results by doing some experimenting and more practice. Jeremy's method sounds interesting too. Many ways to skin a cat as they say.

Cheers,
Coxy

[Traindamage]

Here are a few models that I've weathered since January 2010....











Gary

[Iain]

 

You're not supposed to be throwing up shots of the real thing!!!

[GaryHinshaw]

Fantastic job Traindamage.  To me, the SSW hopper and WP box stand out for the rust work and graffiti, respectively.

-Gary

[Traindamage]

IAIN
GARY : Thank You Fella's....A NICE forum here! seems like an informative and cool place to take in more about other scales in modeling!



Gary