A few pictures of the Fox Valley Gevos...

[u18b]

Wonder if a replacement handrail set could be etched ot of brass so that it's one piece. That way those of us who aren't great at soldering don't have to worry about messing up brass wire and brass stanchions.

That's how almost all brass diesel locomotives are made.

And even though I own some, I don't think they look all that great.  The depth of detail is not very deep.
In fact, they sometimes look kind of dumb.  Sometimes plastic looks better.

But you don't buy brass for simply the handrails.    It's usually because you can't get something in plastic, and also for the overall level of detailing-- not just the handrails-- even if the stanchions are pretty flat (and the fold-over part at the top looks grossly over scale).

[AlkemScaleModels]

Stanless steel is better for etching because it can hold a smaller pattern. Parts can be etched thinner than brass or nickel because they are not as likely to break. The etching process can be slower with steel which gives better control of the product.

AFAIK, SS is harder to solder.

SS is harder to solder only if you don't have the right flux. A bottle of acid flux that works on SS costs about 8 bucks. Once I started using the right flux, SS became as easy to solder as brass.  I got mine from S Rubenstein Associates in NY via an internet order.

I have to disagree about the easier etching of SS. The guys I use say that SS is more difficult to etch. They usually recommend thinner stock for SS model RR parts. Since SS is stronger than brass, the parts are stronger for a given thickness.

[AlkemScaleModels]

Ed - I was thinking of something like Bernie's approach, but with the actual handrail included in the etch instead of using wire, so you'd truly have a single piece (per segment).  I think half-etching the corners of the rails would give a decent illusion of roundness, especially if they're thin to start with.  If you start with .010 stock, I think the segments would be pretty rigid, but one would have to try it to see.  Of course this would be very model specific, as you say, but it's only artwork.... (let the acid do the hard work).  It would be fun to experiment with.

I tried this on a caboose model. It's better to use phosphor bronze as the railing. I have not tried with SS though. That might work better.

[AlkemScaleModels]

Wonder if a replacement handrail set could be etched ot of brass so that it's one piece. That way those of us who aren't great at soldering don't have to worry about messing up brass wire and brass stanchions.

But you don't buy brass for simply the handrails.    It's usually because you can't get something in plastic, and also for the overall level of detailing-- not just the handrails-- even if the stanchions are pretty flat (and the fold-over part at the top looks grossly over scale).

My hand rail kit did not require folding over the stanchion on the railing. A small touch of solder was all that was required.

[Chris333]

Off topic, but didn't the demo GP60's have so sort of rounded off nose or cab front?

If it still matters I have soldered stainless and it was just about the same as brass, I do turn the iron up a hair more for extra heat just in case. It always works.

[u18b]

Off topic, but didn't the demo GP60's have so sort of rounded off nose or cab front?

Chris,  yes.  That's what makes them unique and worthwhile in brass.  There were only three of them that looked that way-- and now CSX owns all three.

Life Like painted their GP60 in demo, but obviously it was a foobie.

The brass model is gorgeous --- except for the handrails.

[GaryHinshaw]

My hand rail kit did not require folding over the stanchion on the railing. A small touch of solder was all that was required.

Bernie, could you elaborate on this?  What kind of joint was it? 

I agree that the folded tabs on the brass loco rails really detract.

[AlkemScaleModels]

My hand rail kit did not require folding over the stanchion on the railing. A small touch of solder was all that was required.

Bernie, could you elaborate on this?  What kind of joint was it?  

I agree that the folded tabs on the brass loco rails really detract.

The railing has a half etched slot for the hand rail wire. You lay the wire in the slot, add some flux and a touch of solder. The solder simulates the T fitting.  Here is an example from the front handrails.
 

[flight2000]

My biggest worry with the finer handrails is the constant in and out of boxes during moves.  Might be worth exploring down the road, but I'm moving so much that the handrails may not survive very long.  Might have to try a test bed during the next move...

Brian

[lashedup]

    Any word on how these Gevo's run or pull?  If I had some that close they would be put to work right away!

I might be able to tell you in the next 24 hours or so. Don't expect any scientific methodology or anything. FVM's GEVO's feel just like a Kato SD70ACE in your hand weight-wise.

Matt should also have a few more photos to post soon as well.

[lashedup]

Was able to pull 32 Intermountain Cylindrical and covered hoppers with one of FVM's BNSF GEVO units on a level grade. There is a slight grade at one end of the modular setup that affects 3 of the modules due to the floor. The GEVO struggles a little bit on this short grade just barely starting to spin wheels. However I tried putting one of Kato's SD70ACE units on the point in stead and it struggles a hair more to pull the same amount of that grade. I haven't weighed the two side-by-side, but so far the performance is very similar to the Kato SD70ACE. The ACE's are a little bit quieter too. I took a quick video of it and will upload in a bit. Here is a photo as well. More of those coming later.



This unit has some extra grabs installed on it:

[lashedup]

quickie video:

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Congrats to Matt for what looks like a really killer product.

Like I said before, please please please do us an SD40-2!

[mcjaco]

I believe Matt said the units Jamie took pictures of were still pre-production units, that had minor paint defects.  So you're still not looking at the final product (unless Matt corrects me).

We put a Kato SD75 next to one of these, and the FVM orange is much better than the neon that Kato uses.  The mass these units portray, is just awesome, and I loved the antiskid paint on the roof.  The one unit he ran was pretty quiet, but had a little noise like some Atlas units. 

[lashedup]

The BNSF unit in the above photos without the details is a production unit.