A few pictures of the Fox Valley Gevos...

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Stanless steel is better for etching because it can hold a smaller pattern. Parts can be etched thinner than brass or nickel because they are not as likely to break. The etching process can be slower with steel which gives better control of the product.

[lock4244]

GP38AC were indeed noted as an AC to mark the use of an AC alternator... equipped with DC traction motors. There were a few AC testbeds built... CP had their one of a kind M640 rebuilt into a 4000hp, A1A trucked, 18 cylinder, AC traction motored testbed. Not a success.

[ednadolski]

If only there were a simple, sturdy, more-scale-sized after-market option (for this and many other diesels)...

There is HO scale.

Actually, in HO, Smokey Valley stanchions are no longer available, and PIA seems more like MIA.  So there are no viable options for after-market stanchions.  N is way better off with the GMM stanchions.

Wonder if a replacement handrail set could be etched ot of brass so that it's one piece.

I always liked Bernie K's approach. You can attach the handrails with CA, if soldering is not an option for you:



The downside is that this approach is very specific to a particular model.

Side note:  have you tried paste solder?  I find that a lot easier to use for soldering handrails.

Ed

[ednadolski]

Stanless steel is better for etching because it can hold a smaller pattern. Parts can be etched thinner than brass or nickel because they are not as likely to break. The etching process can be slower with steel which gives better control of the product.

AFAIK, SS is harder to solder.

[Robbman]

This is a nice model. I'll second (or is it third-ed) the SD40-2 in HO.

Stainless steel...

I'm not familiar with the etching process, but would would the advantage to stainless over brass be?

Regarding the AC vs. DC, how come there weren't very many AC models after the GP38AC? IIRC, there weren't anything between those and the SD60MACs.

The GP38AC (and SD38AC) were offered with the same alternator (AC voltage, rectified to DC for the traction motors) setup the higher horsepower GP40/SD40s used, instead of the standard generator (DC voltage) that low-horsepower models used.  Since it was an option that required frame modifications (for the prime mover starters, which were needed as you can start the prime mover with a generator, but not an alternator), EMD gave them that AC moniker.

With the -2 line and on, alternators became standard equipment on all models, so there was no need for the AC differentiation.  However, with the lower horsepower MP15 using a generator, they revived the AC moniker to again denote the usage of an alternator with the MP15AC (and interestingly enough, relabeled the MP15 to MP15DC, to denote a generator). The last usage of AC to denote an alternator occured with the GP15AC rehash in late 1982...

[GaryHinshaw]

Ed - I was thinking of something like Bernie's approach, but with the actual handrail included in the etch instead of using wire, so you'd truly have a single piece (per segment).  I think half-etching the corners of the rails would give a decent illusion of roundness, especially if they're thin to start with.  If you start with .010 stock, I think the segments would be pretty rigid, but one would have to try it to see.  Of course this would be very model specific, as you say, but it's only artwork.... (let the acid do the hard work).  It would be fun to experiment with.

Merry Christmas,
Gary

P.S. My biggest beef with plastic handrail sets are the thickness of the stanchions and their tendency to lean inwards, not so much rail thickness itself.

[Wlal13again]

No I will not change era's,, no I will not,, must resist,,,,

 From reading the posts on the other board and seeing the pics,, I would have no problem at all spending money on those.

  Maybe the SOO lived on,, and purchased one,,hmmm,lol

Once again,,,,, great job!!!

 adios and merry christmas..  wyatt

Dont do it Wyatt, dont drink the Kool Aid..lol

Merry Christmas Greg..
Rich

Tivch

[Craig Martyn]

Stanless steel is better for etching because it can hold a smaller pattern. Parts can be etched thinner than brass or nickel because they are not as likely to break. The etching process can be slower with steel which gives better control of the product.

Having had thousands of sheets etched, I can tell you that's not completely true...

The hardness of any metal will yield differences in etching quality and durability.  We use "half hard" brass and stainless, and in that case, brass is a softer, easier to etch metal.  For instance, on a part that will not be handled and has extremely small holes or detail, we'll go with brass.  On a product like coupler platform walkways and other non-painted products, it's easier to go with stainless as it matches the color of the prototype, even though etching in brass would yield more consistent results.  Lastly, on anything with a large half-etched surface, stainless will almost always severely warp with the grain of the metal; brass doesn't really warp...at least not as bad as stainless.  Anyway...FYI...

Merry Christmas everyone!

[GaryHinshaw]

Good info Craig, thanks for posting it.  Maybe this handrail idea isn't so hot after all...

Funny you should mention warping, as I was just installing some BLMA half-etch stainless sunshades last night and had to unwarp them first.    Once installed though, they are quite sturdy and they look fantastic.

[sd75i]

    Any word on how these Gevo's run or pull?  If I had some that close they would be put to work right away!




dave t

[Mark5]

Looking forward to feedback on these. ;D

Hoping that maybe FVM will be the one to finally break the "barrier" on certain loco models.

Mark

[ednadolski]

.... with the actual handrail included in the etch instead of using wire....

I'd be concerned about how sturdy that would be,  esp. in brass.  Maybe Craig can shed some light: can etching reliably produce a 0.010" wide strip in a metal 0.010" thick?

With the phosphor bronze wire, I can go to 0.008" diameter and it's still relatively strong.  Guess I'll have to get me a GEVO or two and try it out 

Ed

[sd75i]

  If these turn out to be a great item, we will probably have models we want more of sooner!!  The downside is, for some, we would have to rob a bank to get all the ones we want!  With these units we are already getting Roadnames that we probably wouldn't see with others!




dave t

[AlkemScaleModels]

If only there were a simple, sturdy, more-scale-sized after-market option (for this and many other diesels)...

There is HO scale.

I always liked Bernie K's approach. You can attach the handrails with CA, if soldering is not an option for you:

The downside is that this approach is very specific to a particular model.
Ed

Ed,
I thought it was a good idea too. Problem is very few people tried them out.
BCK

[ednadolski]

If only there were a simple, sturdy, more-scale-sized after-market option (for this and many other diesels)...

There is HO scale.

I always liked Bernie K's approach. You can attach the handrails with CA, if soldering is not an option for you:

The downside is that this approach is very specific to a particular model.
Ed

Ed,
I thought it was a good idea too. Problem is very few people tried them out.
BCK

I wanted to try these but I could never find the JnJ or Kato shells.

What would it take to do these for the Fox GEVOs?  Fox is doing an undec, and even on a decorated model matching the sidesill color should be straightforward.  Maybe some folks here would also be interested in that?

There is this perception that N-scale handrails are difficult, but with decent magnification & work light, it's not any harder than say weathering or adding grabirons or other details.  IMHO, there aren't too many other things that can make as dramatic a difference -- and just for Gary, I'll post the comparison pic again:


Ed