PRR/Conrail Juniata Division Engineering Report

[Ed Kapuscinski]

I have enough Pennsy projects to satisfy the mood.  Besides, I want to have at least one finished N scale layout on hand at any given time...

In terms of Pennsy projects, besides rolling stock and motive power projects, now I get to build VIEW tower and Sherman's Creek bridge!

Thinking for the crossovers on the bridge I might go ME #6s because they have springs on the throws.

I think that's an excellent idea.
I remember when Jerry did his, he used extended rods that stuck out the back, but yours will be visible from both sides, right?

[Chris333]

That image is probably from DKS and I just saved it to draw over.

[Dave V]

Do you have to do the crossovers on the bridge, or are you trying to replicate the prototype?

DFF

Yes.   

I think that's an excellent idea.
I remember when Jerry did his, he used extended rods that stuck out the back, but yours will be visible from both sides, right?

No, just visible from the one side.  But I don't want to do that whackadoodle lever thing.  The more moving parts, the more probability of eventual failure.

These crossovers will govern entrance/exit from staging, but I don't mind having them be manual if they're going to be both visible and easily accessible.

If I do end up doing the curved turnouts to lengthen the staging tracks then thy also end up being more visible and accessible, and that's always good.

[glakedylan]

EDIT:  Does anyone know more about the geometry of these guys?

[C62-2]

The inner curve is 280 mm and the outer curve is 317 mm, both making 45 degrees of curve.

http://www.tomytec.co.jp/tomix/products/n/1278-9.htm

[Dave V]

This bullsh!t has happened to me with 3 different Atlas #5s while building the Colorado Midland.  This is why I'm way of using Atlas turnouts.



EDIT:  I was able to fix it by soldering the adjacent joint and CA glue-ing the rail back in place.  Hopefully all that plus the bonded ballast that follows will keep it there for good.

[MichaelWinicki]

This bullsh!t has happened to me with 3 different Atlas #5s while building the Colorado Midland.  This is why I'm way of using Atlas turnouts.



EDIT:  I was able to fix it by soldering the adjacent joint and CA glue-ing the rail back in place.  Hopefully all that plus the bonded ballast that follows will keep it there for good.

Honestly Dave I have many #5's and never, ever had that happen.

[davefoxx]

It may not help you in that situation, but the best fix, before you install the turnout, is to pull that short piece of rail out and run your adjacent flextrack rail long into there.  Be sure to leave the rail gap near the frog, but this eliminates a rail joint.  You have to pull the rail straight out to prevent breaking the spikes.  If you have two turnouts back-to-back, both pieces can be pulled and a longer piece of scrap inserted, again eliminating a rail joint.  Only if you're abuting the stock rail of an adjacent turnout are you prevented from this fix.

Hope this helps (although it may not save this turnout, if the spikes are broken),
DFF

[Dave V]

It may not help you in that situation, but the best fix, before you install the turnout, is to pull that short piece of rail out and run your adjacent flextrack rail long into there.  Be sure to leave the rail gap near the frog, but this eliminates a rail joint.  You have to pull the rail straight out to prevent breaking the spikes.  If you have two turnouts back-to-back, both pieces can be pulled and a longer piece of scrap inserted, again eliminating a rail joint.  Only if you're abuting the stock rail of an adjacent turnout are you prevented from this fix.

Hope this helps (although it may not save this turnout, if the spikes are broken),
DFF

Like I said, I was able to fix this one, but still, wow...  I think what's happening is when I'm soldering frog-to-frog I must be weakening the spikes (even though I use a heat sink).

Track soldering for the Midland is done as of this morning....thank God!

[MichaelWinicki]

I think what's happening is when I'm soldering frog-to-frog I must be weakening the spikes (even though I use a heat sink).

That could be... I did not solder mine in that manner. Unless there's a problem or a reason for doing so, I never solder in turnouts– just for the reason if there is a problem they're easier to pull up.

[Dave V]

I've always been gun-shy about dead spots so I'm a solderaholic.  The Midland is a "show layout" so maximum feeders and soldered joints!

[OldEastRR]

Do you do roundy-roundy on both mains at once?

[Dave V]

Do you do roundy-roundy on both mains at once?

Yep.  It's more fun that way!

[Dave V]

Before and after... Red Caboose 42' flatcars lettered as PRR class FM.



I used craft paints primarily...  Folk Art paint from Hobby Lobby.  "Country Twill" for the deck (with some other random grays and browns on individual planks) and then a thin wash of Americana "Soft Black" (which is essentially a very dark grayish-brown) covered everything.  The trucks and couplers were hit with fine rattle-can mists of Floquil Rail Brown and Rustoleum Weathered Wood.  The wheel faces were painted PolyScale Railroad Tie Brown, and lastly the MTL "glad hands" were coated with Neolube.

[MichaelWinicki]

Wow! Very nice Dave!