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I have enough Pennsy projects to satisfy the mood. Besides, I want to have at least one finished N scale layout on hand at any given time... In terms of Pennsy projects, besides rolling stock and motive power projects, now I get to build VIEW tower and Sherman's Creek bridge!Thinking for the crossovers on the bridge I might go ME #6s because they have springs on the throws.
Do you have to do the crossovers on the bridge, or are you trying to replicate the prototype?DFF
I think that's an excellent idea. I remember when Jerry did his, he used extended rods that stuck out the back, but yours will be visible from both sides, right?
EDIT: Does anyone know more about the geometry of these guys?
This bullsh!t has happened to me with 3 different Atlas #5s while building the Colorado Midland. This is why I'm way of using Atlas turnouts.EDIT: I was able to fix it by soldering the adjacent joint and CA glue-ing the rail back in place. Hopefully all that plus the bonded ballast that follows will keep it there for good.
It may not help you in that situation, but the best fix, before you install the turnout, is to pull that short piece of rail out and run your adjacent flextrack rail long into there. Be sure to leave the rail gap near the frog, but this eliminates a rail joint. You have to pull the rail straight out to prevent breaking the spikes. If you have two turnouts back-to-back, both pieces can be pulled and a longer piece of scrap inserted, again eliminating a rail joint. Only if you're abuting the stock rail of an adjacent turnout are you prevented from this fix.Hope this helps (although it may not save this turnout, if the spikes are broken),DFF
I think what's happening is when I'm soldering frog-to-frog I must be weakening the spikes (even though I use a heat sink).
Do you do roundy-roundy on both mains at once?