Best Of Fading fast...

[ednadolski]

Isn't the lead needed to meet NMRA weighting specs?

[James Costello]

I ordered 4 tubes (the three transparent oxides and the white) through dickblick.com last week for what I thought was a good price...totaled about $22US... but they want another $23US to ship to Australia via USPS with a 2-3 delivery window! Not sure I want to pay $11US ($15AU) each for these...

I think I'll have to wait until later in January when shops here are supposed to get some stock!
My fading experimentation may have to wait awhile, which mightn't be a bad thing considering what else is on the workbench

[GaryHinshaw]

Hi James.  I don't know about other sources for the oxides, but most acrylic paint companies offer a zinc-based white, as opposed to a titanium white.   I think all zinc-based whites are similarly transparent, so if another brand is available, you might want to go for it.

I don't want to stand in the way of a new SD70M hitting the rails though... if I recall your to-do list correctly.

Cheers,
Gary

[James Costello]

I don't want to stand in the way of a new SD70M hitting the rails though... if I recall your to-do list correctly.

Well, that'll be the plan now Gary  ;D

I've got an assignment due tomorrow that unfortunately has chewed up all of the last week, but it'll be on to the SD70Ms, some MTL trailers that need decals and some DeLuxe gear after that.

[jbaakko]

Ran a test fade with Floquil antique white thinned with ~85% air brush thinner.

[ednadolski]

Looks good Josh.  I'm always amazed at how bold the un-faded green looks on those containers -- like the Emerald City

I wonder if the Floquil is transparent like the zinc white?

I've also tried the mix of Model Master Sand & Light Gray, which seems to work for light-to-medium fading.

Ed

[GaryHinshaw]

That does look really good Josh.  I've never tried spraying solvents (at least not in recent memory), but I might give it a try.  Now all you need is a very light wash of grime, and a bit of rust on the corner posts and you'll be golden:

http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=467551

(It's curious to see how many shades of green these containers come in...)

I haven't done any painting/weathering for a few months now due to basement renovations, but I'm itching to get back to it.  Coincidentally, I just picked up a pair of Evergreen containers too.   

-Gary

[jbaakko]

Yeah, this was just a start to the weathering of containers.  Maybe I'll shoot the 2nd 20' in that photo with a darker color to look more like that prototype shown above.

In any case, the Floquil worked well, maybe not as transparent as the Zinc white, which I'll try once my new airbrush gets in.

[GaryHinshaw]

Well it's been a while, but I've gotten back to the paint booth and have a few more results to share.  No new techniques here, just the zinc white fade coat (supplemented with the transparent orange for the blue fades), acrylic washes and some rust treatments.  In honor of the 4th of July (not too long ago...) here are some red, white & blue containers:







The red & white cans above are pretty new and only lightly faded (the white not at all, actually) but I also wanted to show how much difference it can make finishing the door hardware with silver and black decal stripes.  To me now, they kind of look naked without it.

Here is a more heavily faded red can:



and a lightly faded blue:



I'm especially happy with how this last one turned out.

-Gary

P.S. I took these shots under my new basement lights: 5000K daylight flourescents with no additional spot lighting.  Very little additional software processing was necessary, so I'm pretty happy about that.  A slightly better camera would still be nice though...

[James Costello]

The red & white cans above are pretty new and only lightly faded (the white not at all, actually) but I also wanted to show how much difference it can make finishing the door hardware with silver and black decal stripes.  To me now, they kind of look naked without it.

Yeah, once you go there, there's no going back. And you notice it on every container and trailer model you see....

Which is why it's easy to say this bunch look exceptional Gary. I love the depth you've managed to obtain on the Swift container, especially on the door. The extra decals are a nice touch on the 53'ers, are they from the Microscale detailing set?

Are you using decals for the locking bars on the doors too?

The lights are looking good too!

[GaryHinshaw]

Yeah, once you go there, there's no going back. And you notice it on every container and trailer model you see....

Which is why it's easy to say this bunch look exceptional Gary. I love the depth you've managed to obtain on the Swift container, especially on the door. The extra decals are a nice touch on the 53'ers, are they from the Microscale detailing set?

Are you using decals for the locking bars on the doors too?

The lights are looking good too!

Thanks James.  Of course you are the one who showed me the true path to finishing the door hardware.    Here is a rundown on the Microscale decals I used on these:

Customs seals: HO 1" black stripes (MS 91112)
Locking rods: HO 2" silver stripes (MS 91114)
Rod handles & misc conspicuity stripes: HO 1" silver stripes (MS 91114)
Warning labels & placard holders: N trailer data set (MS 60-852)

I was really pleased with the Swift can too, especially how much 'pop' the door treatment adds - once you're trained to notice it. 

Cheers,
Gary

[James Costello]

A couple of generic questions:

1) What do you use for windshield washing fluid and is it all the same? Do you just get it from any auto shop?

2) Where's a good source for Bragdon powders?

James' new repeat: "must resist urge to work on containers. Focus on the SD70Ms."

[jsoflo]

Gary,
Nice cans!

[GaryHinshaw]

James:

Bragdon powders can be ordered direct from Bragdon Enterprises.  I found at least one reference on the web to a fellow (bloke?) in Australia who ordered them direct, so they will ship abroad.  They offer a number of sets and individual colors.  The ones I use most often are Weathered Brown, Dust Bowl Brown, Dark Rust, and Soot.

The active ingredient in the cheap windshield washer fluid is (poisonous) methyl alcohol.   If this is not available to you, you can make a home brew from isopropyl alcohol (though I vaguely recall hearing that isopropyl is also not available in Au?).  The main trait of these solvents is good flow properties, so it's worth some effort to come up with something equivalent.

BTW, what's the SD70 project you're working on? A flared unit with std. cab?  Don't let me stop you from that!

Thanks Jan!

Best,
Gary

[jbaakko]

Yeah, once you go there, there's no going back. And you notice it on every container and trailer model you see....

Which is why it's easy to say this bunch look exceptional Gary. I love the depth you've managed to obtain on the Swift container, especially on the door. The extra decals are a nice touch on the 53'ers, are they from the Microscale detailing set?

Are you using decals for the locking bars on the doors too?

The lights are looking good too!

Thanks James.  Of course you are the one who showed me the true path to finishing the door hardware.    Here is a rundown on the Microscale decals I used on these:

Customs seals: HO 1" black stripes (MS 91112)
Locking rods: HO 2" silver stripes (MS 91114)
Rod handles & misc conspicuity stripes: HO 1" silver stripes (MS 91114)
Warning labels & placard holders: N trailer data set (MS 60-852)

I was really pleased with the Swift can too, especially how much 'pop' the door treatment adds - once you're trained to notice it. 

Cheers,
Gary

Thats neat that you used decals, I have never considered doing that one mine.