Atlas SD50/60 Six Axle Locos

[ljudice]

As I've gotten trains running, I can't express how impressed I am with Atlas Code 55 track - and how unimpressed I am with the Atlas SD50/60 mechanism. Almost every one (from all three generations) have problems derailing, stalling (mechanically), driving OVER, and basically doing poorly with many of my C55 #7 turnouts. My one #5 forget about - and #10's seem to be a little bit better.

Every Kato loco - and every relatively new Atlas 4 axle seems to do fine - gliding through quietly.

I sure hope the C40-8 is not based on this mechnism...  Anyone know for sure???

[wm3798]

Let me introduce you to my friend, Mr. Wheel Gauge...

Actually, although these are a bit on the modern side for me, I've read that these have had problems.
Maybe someone knows of a fix?

Lee

[John]

Let me introduce you to my friend, Mr. Wheel Gauge...

Actually, although these are a bit on the modern side for me, I've read that these have had problems.
Maybe someone knows of a fix?

Lee

Ron Bearden has made a cottage industry out of NScale articles on these things .. there was a 30 page thread on atlas about it also .. look for hopping and skipping or something like that

[Chris333]

http://forum.atlasrr.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=42265

[John]

Thats the one ..

[ljudice]

Thanks for the link...  But seriously - regauge?? I don't like taking those trucks apart at all.

I'd gladly replace them with newer trucks, but the newer units have the same or worse problem.

It's obviously a statistical process quality control issue.  Is the Atlas factory Six Simga or ISO9000 or whatever???

[wm3798]

You don't have to take the truck apart to correct the gauge.  Check it, then use a jewelers screwdriver to push the wheel in or out till it fits.  Takes about 15 seconds.

Lee

[ljudice]

I've got one of those, but I can't quiet figure out how to correct the gauge with it!!! 

Are the wheels loose enough on the axle to move with a small amount of force?

[davefoxx]

Just like Lee said.  Stick the screwdriver in between the backside of the wheel and the gearbox and twist.  The wheel will "pop" out a little.  After you've done a few, you will get the feel for how much force is required and how far to move the wheelset.  Also, be careful, you may not want to just move a wheelset on one side as it may allow the gear to shift and rub the side of the gearbox opening on the bottom of the truck.  If this is done, the engine will run louder and rougher.

Dave

[Mark5]

Trust me - it's easy!

[ljudice]

I did it - and it works, but for the life of me I am not sure what I really did...

In other words ALL of the wheels were too tight gauged?? 

[bobcat]

I have found that even with new Katos, you need to check the guage. My 2 SD70Ms were terrible until I regauged them.

Such an easy fix and makes all the difference in the world.

[asciibaron]

i had to re-gauge my C-628's - they were way the heck out.

first, i set the wheels fully in the axles, then i worked on only one side to ensure that all 6 axles of the locomotive were the correct gauge.  this keeps everything uniform within a truck and reduces the hopping that seems to occur if they are uneven within the truck.  takes a few minutes, but it's worth it - they  G-L-I-D-E through the #5 frogs now.

-Steve

[Nato]

 Yes these locomotives were from the time period that most Atlas diesels had weels out of gauge, After regauging myfour UP and one BNSF test scheme loco units run very nicely,but were having troubles on the code 80 Flex track on my layout. I also had to do this to my FM Trainmasters,but recient locos like VO 1000 switchers seem to be in better gauge. Nate Goodman (Nato). Salt Lake, Utah.

[delamaize]

I did it - and it works, but for the life of me I am not sure what I really did...

In other words ALL of the wheels were too tight gauged?? 

Alot of engines come from the factroy undergauged, especally the 6 axel ones, to help with running on tight radi corners. gauging is the very forst thing I check, even before they hit the rails.