DCC Layout Wiring Question

[dclyde]

I have what is probably a very easy layout DCC wiring question.

I have a Digitrax DCS200 Command Station (SuperChief) and a DB100 booster (Challenger).  We have recently completely revampted our home layout to something along the lines of 16'X42' with a reverse loop at both ends of the layout.  The reverse loops are controlled by a Digitrax AR1 at both ends and are working great.

I would like to split the electrical into two sections.  That is, the DSC200 on one end of the layout and the DB100 at the other.  I understand the all rails must be insolated but my question pertains to the table-to-table wiring harness.  Should I not connect the wiring harness between the two tables that mark the switchover between the Command Station and the Booster?  Or does it not matter if the harness' are connected?

My own logic dictates that the harness' should not be connected but I guess I need some sort of reinforcement as to whether or not I'm correct.

Any and all comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave

[cv_acr]

If you want the two sections electrically isolated, you can't hook any wires between the two halves; otherwise, it's all connected together again and everything is connected to both boosters.
Run all the wires from one half to a bus that connects to booster A, run all the feeders for the other half to a bus that connects to booster B.

[dclyde]

Thanks Chris,

That's the reinforcement I was looking for.  I thought that was the way to do it but just wasn't quite sure about it.

Thanks,
Dave

[Ian MacMillan]

I'd then split each booster into 2 or 4 blocks each with the PSTwo or PSFour from Tonys Train Exchange.

[POVC]

Dave,

You obviously haven't been spending enough time under the BANTRAK layout helping with electrical connections or you'd have already know the answer.  No, the track wiring harnesses are not connected between electrical blocks (power districts); why bother to put insulated joiners in the rails if you're going to connect the bus wires since the power would just flow around the gap in the rails via the bus unless you also break it.

And I agree with Ian; if you're using two power sources, you should probably go ahead and divide it into 4 blocks - two per source.  That's how we do it on the club layout.

Tim

[mmyers]

Dave,
No connection between the two power districts. As mentioned already, breaking each power district into sub-districts is advisable. Especially with that 8 amp booster.
Try to locate each booster as close as possible to the center of its power district. That will keep voltage drop to a minimum.

BTW, your Powerpoles will be here around the 15th.

Martin

[dclyde]

Wow Tim, I'm sorry I asked the question.  I didn't realize that I would be slammed for asking for a verification of my thoughts.

I do plan on subdividing the power districts at some point in time but, for the interum, I merely wanted to split the layout in half.

Thanks to all for replying.

Dave

[POVC]

Dave,

That wasn't intended as a slam. 

Guess I needed to include a smilie.   

Sorry,

Tim

[dclyde]

No problem Tim.  I guess I shouldn't be so thin skinned.

Your comment did cause me to rethink the BANTRAK electrical layout.  I now see where and why I was left with some questions such as this one (albeit, beginner questions) and the thus, the logical answers to those questions.

Thanks for causing me to refocus more on the big picture.

Dave

[John]

Something else to consider .. if you go to the trouble of using a PM4 or other such device, it is a good idea to make a large yard its own PM4 section .. that way, if you short out going through the turnouts while switching .. you won't shut down your layout ..

[seusscaboose]

another good thing about the Tony's Train Exchange PS4 power shield is the LED's that give you the visual indicatror of a short... these leads can be "stretched" via extending the leads to a "status board" for your layout... lets you quickly ID the block giving you issues....

of course, this only has relavance for layouts where hiddens runs and multiple rooms are an issue... not sure if your run spans multiple rooms...

i love the idea of power poles on the home layout....will need to upgrade to that in the future i believe... after the 55 conversion though

[John]

another good thing about the Tony's Train Exchange PS4 power shield is the LED's that give you the visual indicatror of a short... these leads can be "stretched" via extending the leads to a "status board" for your layout... lets you quickly ID the block giving you issues....

of course, this only has relavance for layouts where hiddens runs and multiple rooms are an issue... not sure if your run spans multiple rooms...

i love the idea of power poles on the home layout....will need to upgrade to that in the future i believe... after the 55 conversion though

You can of course do the same thing with a digitrax PM4

[wcfn100]

If the DB100 is like the DB150, I think you need to configure it to be a booster.

FWIW


Jason

[seusscaboose]

another good thing about the Tony's Train Exchange PS4 power shield is the LED's that give you the visual indicatror of a short... these leads can be "stretched" via extending the leads to a "status board" for your layout... lets you quickly ID the block giving you issues....

of course, this only has relavance for layouts where hiddens runs and multiple rooms are an issue... not sure if your run spans multiple rooms...

i love the idea of power poles on the home layout....will need to upgrade to that in the future i believe... after the 55 conversion though

You can of course do the same thing with a digitrax PM4

for some reason... i cant remember why... i went with Tony's for some reason... i think it was b/c of lack of product knowledge... and a bit of "new user" syndrome....

as i remember back... it was probably driven by the reversing board i bought from them.. and i wanted to keep everything as constant as possible... of course, i now konw that Digitrax also has a reverse board as well.....

i am sure there was a good reason... but i think if i had to do it all again i would stick with digitrax if they offered the item... simply to keep things MORE uniform and limit "oppotunities for failure".

live and learn (hence the 55 conversion project)

[John]

Eric .. there is nothing wrong with your choices .. Tonys stuff is good ..

I don't always use all digitrax stuff either .. the nice thing about this dcc stuff ..in many cases, you can use other manufacturers accessories ..