Old Atlas GP-9 Info Request

[Bob Bufkin]

Took off work today because I wasn't feeling well and decided to go through some of my old stash of equipment.  Came across an older Atlas GP-9 (done up for N&W) which I had started to strip for repaint many years ago.  To my surprise it's a phase 3.  Has made in Austria on the bottom.  The new Gp-9's I have are phase 2's.  The old one has the 2 48" fans instead of the 4 36" fans.  Going to make it a GP-9b since I have all the parts I need and also going to strip out the motor and get rid of the rapido couplers.  My questions is:  When did Atlas switch from phase 3 to phase 2 on these and what is the best coupler replacement? 
Bob

[wm3798]

Oh boy, that is an oldie.  The Austrian model was by Roco, I believe, and if you place it next to a current model GP-9, you'll find it to be shorter than scale, and the details on the frame and walkways are extremely coarse by comparison.

If you want to simulate a ph. 3, you'd be better off starting with a Life Like GP-18 or 20 shell to get the roof details you want, then splice them to a newer Atlas/China shell.  I don't know any of the particulars of other differences, but perhaps Robb or someone can chime in.

The old model isn't worth salvaging, IMHO.

Lee

[Bob Bufkin]

Think that's old.  I have 4 old Rapido GP's.  Huge wheels, noisy as a real diesel but can still pull a buzzard off a s***wagon.
Bob

[wcfn100]

  I don't know if it is still available anywhere, but there was a 5 pole replacement motor for the Atlas GP9 and GP30.  And if I remember correctly, it's a direct drop in using the original screw from the bottom.

  That model will always be one of my favorites since it was one of my first locomotives.  I think I still have mine somewhere, albeit a chopped nose now.

If you are interested I have an old TJ models GP-9B shell that is supposed to replacement for the old atlas GP9s.  Please contact me if you would be interseted or have any questions about it.





Jason

[Nato]

    I had several of these old Rocco Locomotives, the GP-9 GP-30 and the FP-7 with the uglly oversize number boards. My C.& N.W. GP-9 had a strange operational quirk. With the shell off the headlight lighted up, but with it on it pressed to tightly someway and the light refused to light, it ran,but had no light. None of my others had this problem. Nate Goodman(Nato). Salt Lake, Utah. "I say go with an MP GP-18 ahell and an Atlas shell . Much better detailing."

[Mark5]

Took off work today because I wasn't feeling well and decided to go through some of my old stash of equipment.  Came across an older Atlas GP-9 (done up for N&W) which I had started to strip for repaint many years ago.

In the N&W "pink" scheme eh? 

  To my surprise it's a phase 3.  Has made in Austria on the bottom.  The new Gp-9's I have are phase 2's.  The old one has the 2 48" fans instead of the 4 36" fans.  Going to make it a GP-9b since I have all the parts I need and also going to strip out the motor and get rid of the rapido couplers.  My questions is:  When did Atlas switch from phase 3 to phase 2 on these and what is the best coupler replacement? 
Bob

Let's see, I bought those when they came out (around 1975 or so). Quantum leap forward from the cRapido Geep. 

They switched to Phase II about 20 years later when the far superior GP9s (China) came out (1996). The best coupler replacement is to fill in the pilot "hole" and body mount.

 

[railspike55]

Spookshow has a write up about this loco
you can check this link

http://www.visi.com/~spookshow/rocogp9.html

When I worked as repair guy for fleemarket vendor I repaired many of these.
Still have parts for them. If you need anything let me know.

I repowered my loco's using the  Sagami 1012 5pole motors and they run sweet.
I also replace the over sized wire with more flexable wireing. This helps along with tubing to
replace the ball/socket motor couplings.

Be carfull of the power pickups. They do not like to flex much.

Added... as N&W said fill in the pilot and body mt or find the MT conversion
I think NScale Supply may have one that mite work.

Ron N.

[railspike55]

N&W
quote "They switched to Phase II about 20 years later when the far superior GP9s (China) came out (1996). The best coupler replacement is to fill in the pilot "hole" and body mount."

Before the China made Atlas had some from Kato and yes they are not to scale but what phase
were the Atlas/Kato GP's?

I have the boxes someware packed ..no ez access.

Ron N.

[Mark5]

Before the China made Atlas had some from Kato and yes they are not to scale but what phase
were the Atlas/Kato GP's?

Those were REALLY BAD (the 1985/6 Atlas/Kato Geeps) - so bad that I forgot about them. These were by far the biggest letdown ever for me in N scale - coming on the heels of the Atlas/Kato RS3 and RS11.

I probably still have some shells at home (I was trying to see how I could shorten them back then). They have 36" fans so they cannot be phase III.

[wm3798]

The 1986 version used the exact same mechanism that the RS-3 used, but with a different fuel tank and blomberg style trucks.  That retrofit was the reason for the shell being all wrong and the wheel base looking all screwy.

I recently bought an old RS-3 from E-bay, and lo and behold, it has the GP-9 underframe detail...  I'm thinking I'll be hacking it into a yard slug to pull behind the BL-2

Lee

[railspike55]

Thanks N&W...
After finding out about these now I know why I had so much trouble decaling
all the NKP strips down the sides.

I had tried the retro frames but they were vary soft. They bend when least expect they to. The frames made the truck spacing look better. But you are right the body shell is to long.


Only good piont is they pull like mules, I have had one pull 36 cars around a curved 2.5% grade. When we ran these at N-track meets three can pull 80 cars ... that was my last record.

[SAH]

I'm trying to figure out Picasa and I had this photo and since Bob is planning to do a GP9b . . . . .



The preview works Ed, but the photo is kind of tiny.  Maybe it will be larger in the post.  It's a crop and not at full 800 width.

[wcfn100]

If you're getting the link via the "Link to this photo" in Picassa, you need to select the size you want before you copy the link.


Thumbnail 144px



Small 288px



Medium 400px


Large 800px




I did the above manually without even knowing where the picture is located.  If you look at the code, you'll see the difference.

Jason

[rschaffter]

Years ago I put a Kato GM5 motor in one of the old 'Made in Austria' ones, mounting it with a dab of silicone caulk, and it ran (and still runs) pretty well.  The weak spot is the electrical wipers.

[SAH]

I did the above manually without even knowing where the picture is located.  If you look at the code, you'll see the difference.

Jason

Thanks Jason.  I see the difference in the code line.  I've been pestering Ed for help via PMs too.   ;D  Eventually I'll get it right.

Steve