NKP SD9 Detailing Project

[SAH]

I has been quite a while since I tackled a loco detailing project.  I've started on my NKP SD9 and have a funny feeling some of my techniques are a bit dated - to say the least.  I'm going to try to post progress photos and some explanations about what I'm doing on this thread with the hope you guys might be able to bring me up to date on what I'm missing.  If anyone happens to pick up some tips from me, all the better.  The recently posted link to the diesel detailing site was quite helpful, but until I actually try something . . . you know what I mean.  If you have questions or suggestions, by all means please post them.

This is a work in progress and may have some dead time between posts as I know I have some business travel time coming up, as well as the other usual duties that keeps one from the modeling bench.

Here's the subject pushing a cut of cars to the AC&Y at Spencer, OH.  I'll be able to recreate this scene on my layout.


I'm using a Made in Japan Atlas model (Kato?) rather than a recently released one 'cause I own it and it runs pretty well.  The N&W renembered NKP locos by sticking a 2 in front of the NKP road number.  I was hoping when i stripped the NW lettering on 2349 away NKP 349 would be underneath.  No such luck.


This will be a full handrail replacement job so off comes the stock set.  This is the first time I've used the Micro mark sprue cutters.  Sweet.


I felt I needed to glue the walkway to the frame if i was going to replace the handrail stanchions but had trouble getting the two parts to adhere.  I finally wound up using Plastruct GP plastic solvent.  It seems to have bonded OK.  What do you guys use for this type of plastic?  The white spots in the handrail pockets are bits of styrene to hold the stanchions away from the walkway a bit.  I realized I was planning to use the wrong GMM stanchions for the prototype and wound up removing them.  Just as well because they started coming out when I drilled for the stanchions anyway.  How do you apply liquid adhesive in a spot where the liquid must not run onto a finished (or to be finished) surface - to prevent crazing?  I used CA to glue the styrene in place.  It did not do so.


I've decided to add the details around the coupler pocket before I start the handrails.  Mama has a late meeting tonight so I should be able to get some extra shop time in.  I'll post some photos tomorrow or the next day.

Thanks for looking.

Steve

[Mark5]

cool. no advice on the handrails as I cut my teeth on the 4" X 4" handrails of the 1970s, so these are quite good enough for me.

which # are you going to model? there is a surprising amount of variation in the ex-NKP (ex to me ) - some have standard headlights, others like the pic above. some have hi-nose bell mounts, others don't.

in this photo one has the bell, the other doesnt:

http://nwry.railfan.net/images/nw2341.jpg

[SAH]

no advice on the handrails as I cut my teeth on the 4" X 4" handrails of the 1970s, so these are quite good enough for me.

which # are you going to model? there is a surprising amount of variation in the ex-NKP (ex to me ) - some have standard headlights, others like the pic above. some have hi-nose bell mounts, others don't.

I know what you mean.  I did a Bachmann GP-40 (because it ran better than the Model Power GP40  :) with .01" steel guitar string wire stanchions & handrails back then.  Saw an article and thought "I can do that".  That steel wire was tough to work with.  Then the RS3s came out, and we were happy.

The NKP SD9s didn't vary all that much.  The biggie spotting feature was the hood mount bell, exhaust covers and the red fire alarm type bell on the side (low water I'm told) later, maybe after '64.  I may do 352 as shown.  If I get REAL ambitious I might do a unit with the hood bell.  Would be pretty tough to get it right though I'm afraid.

Made good progress tonight but too late to post photos now.  I'll do so tomorrow.

Steve

[Mark5]

another w/nose bell:

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/nw/nw2343.jpg

[SAH]

If anyone is aware of a good photo showing the cooling piping routed around the fans on top of the long hood (and is willing to share the location or photo) please let me know.  I'd like to see how the piping is attached to the hood.

Thanks,

Steve

[SAH]

Here are photos of last nights progress.  If anyone knows a better way to accomplish what I've done, please speak up.  I'm just doing what makes sense to me.  Others may look at the task differently and have better ideas. 

Here's a close-up of the end.


MT pilot mounted and holes from details drilled with #80 bit.  I shaved off the mu cable castings from the MT pilot as well as the cast on hand grabs on the frame.  The plastruct GP solvent did the trick with the pilot so I feel good about the bond between the frame and walkway castings.


Details added.  First time I've used BLMA mu cable etchings.  Very nice.  Craig was probably in grade school the last time I did a diesel detail job.   :  Am glad he chose to make parts for us.    A bit of .010 x .010 styrene went above the mu cable etching to fill in a gap.  All wire is .080 brass.  I tried .060 but my tools (non-serrated jaw pliers specifically) could not handle it.  I guess I need to buy some new tools.  Such a shame.    What brand of pliers are you guys using?  I free handed fabbing the cut lever .  NOT an easy task.  Will use BLMA in the future or build a jig.  I made my own mounting eyes to hold the cut lever in position.  Raising the handle will raise the coupler trip bar.  That wasn't my goal but just the way it worked out.


For non standard length grabs I use a divider to measure, poke the divider points into the graph paper sheet glued to my cutting mat and fab the wire ends to match the holes.  It works but is not highly accurate - Read, I have to make a second attempt sometimes.  Does anyone have a better technique they can share?


The eyes are formed with .005 coper wire and the homemade tool shown.  The crook is .010" ss wire.  The Cu wire is from an old motor starter contactor given to me by an electrican I worked with 25 yrs ago.  It was probably 25 yrs old when it failed.  Contactor coils are encapsulated now.  The jewelry making aisle at the craft shop may have something that will work.


Next up - handrail stachion application.  It may be a few days before I have photos to post.

Steve

[engineshop]

Steve
Thanks for your step by step tutorial, I learn a few new tricks.
For bending wires and photo etched pieces, I am using the Tamiya pliers.



They are desiged for photo echted parts but work as well for .007 wires.

[Mark5]

looks great so far! (egads now I'm feeling the need to add these details).

You probably have seen this but here's a nice shot of 348 looking new:

http://nkphts.org/pictures/ameling/348-Norwallk-OH-6-1957jpg.html

[SAH]

For bending wires and photo etched pieces, I am using the Tamiya pliers.
They are desiged for photo echted parts but work as well for .007 wires.

Very cool.  Thanks Roland.  It looks like I need a tool designed for the task, not make do with whatever I have available.  What a novel idea.   :  I guess if I'd pay more attention to the tool vendor tables at the shows I'd know these things existed.  :-[

Steve

[SAH]

looks great so far! (egads now I'm feeling the need to add these details).

You probably have seen this but here's a nice shot of 348 looking new:

Ease up there old boy.  You just got rid of your Throttlepack 1970!!!!   ;D ;D ;D ;D
And here I thought I was the technical ludite of the crew with my Troller Autopulse.   :

I've read a higher percentage of NKP SD9s got the wide stripe re-paint than any other class.  Perhaps due to the environment in SE OH coal country is the resaon they needed a repaint, so the thinking goes 50 yrs later.  I have Mr. Ameling's NKP CD sets.  Lots of views of SD9s in various states of repair.  Sould be an interesting paint and weather job.

[3rdrail]

Ease up there old boy.  You just got rid of your Throttlepack 1970!!!!   ;D ;D ;D ;D
And here I thought I was the technical luddite of the crew with my Troller Autopulse.   :
<snip>

Ah hah! Another one. I have been using a Troller Momentum 1 for over a quarter century for my 2x4 layout. Like it so much I bought a spare on eBay a couple of years ago for $10. They are great packs if you get a good one.  ;D

[SAH]

Ah hah! Another one. I have been using a Troller Momentum 1 for over a quarter century for my 2x4 layout. Like it so much I bought a spare on eBay a couple of years ago for $10. They are great packs if you get a good one.  ;D

Yes they are great packs.  Aside from the bells and whistle (literally) I don't see how DCC can make them run any better.  No "mo" on mine but I did convert it to a faux walk around version.  Moved the pot and direction switch to a hand box attached to the pack with a cord.  Works for my 6 x 10 loop.

[SAH]

Took the first step toward handrail installation last night.  First the rig I made to hold the shell to the frame.
This works much better than the Brio block thingee I joked about last week.


Gold Medal Models stanchions formed prior to insertion into the frame.  I eyeballed the bend point.  Could have marked the plier jaws with a piece of transparent tape I suppose but it worked out OK.  I just clamped the short section with the pliers and bent the visible part of the stanchion to a 90^o angle  with my fingernail.


I made a spacer from balsa & basswood sheet to provide a plane upon which the stanchions will rest during handrail installation.  Wood, because my plan is to solder the handrails to the stanchions.  The graph paper serves only as a visual guide to help me install the stanchions perpendicular to the frame.  First time I've done it this way and it helps A LOT.  The spacer for the other side is shown beneath the bolt, graph paper side down.  It's tough to see but I sliced away one edge at an angle to clear the air intake grills on the long hood making the spacer more easily removed after handrail installation.  I usually don't think about those kinds of things until it's too late and my jig is captured behind my work, requiring the work to be removed to free the jig.  :  I must be in "the zone" to have thought about this now.  The masking tape over the bolt keeps the assembly from scooting around while I'm working on it.  CA adhesive holds the stanchion in place.  A dip of Zap a Gap on the end of the stanchion and then a dab applied to the stanchion pocket with .080 wire after the stanchion is in place.


After laying the factory handrail/stanchion assembly over the new stanchion I can see the GMM stanchion are taller.  I think the design is to fold the top tab over the handrail.  My thought was to solder them together.  I'll now have to trim some of the tab off the top if I go that route.  QUESTION for those who've done this before:  Did you fold the tab, clip and solder, solder and clip, or just solder?  My concern about folding is it seems like it would be tough to fold the tab around the handrail such that the handrail stays parallel to the frame (no dips).  I can closely control the handrail position with tape if I solder it.  Any thoughts on the matter?

Steve

[railspike55]

Sah, 

Now you've gone and done it.  I have several older Sd's and now mine look so plain.

Great work so far, and I am keeping tabs on this one.  Deffinetly a learning curve for me here.

Cant wait to see this progress... ;D

Ron N.

[SAH]

Great work so far, and I am keeping tabs on this one.  Deffinetly a learning curve for me here.

Cant wait to see this progress... ;D

Thanks Ron.  Yeah, you and me both.  I've never done "on the fly" documentation like this before, for a model RR project anyway.  If I crash and burn at least everyone will know how and why and what NOT to do.   

Steve