H-16-44 by Bachmann - First Impressions

[SAH]

Take a look at parts from the Atlas Train Master Lee.  Some of them are better than the B'mann version.  Ordering parts from Atlas has been a snap.

Steve

[Mark5]

My back and forth test track runs in DC were satisfactory, the engine starts well, runs well at slow speed, and doesn't appear to be overly noisy.  Once I get the decoder in it and can run it around the layout for awhile, I'll be able to give you a more thorough report.

Lee

Interesting - mine was a classic jack rabbit on DC - maybe I need a new power pack.

Intrigued by the rather substantially different test results between myself and Lee - This thread inspired me to get a new power pack ...

I got a MRC Tech 4 220, and wow, welcome to the 1990s! (last "power pack" I bought was a MRC 500N Throttlepack back in say 1974). I also have a Cama cab control which I am certain is decent - but this needs to be wired into the layout, which is still under construction.

The results were better than I expected  (I expected improvement!) - this power pack instantly transformed my worst performer (the Bmann H16-44) into a decent runner. It can now crawl!

The Bmann H16-44 is still a bit "coggy" as I would expect from a 3 pole motor but I'm pretty impressed.

This power pack along with my cama cab should easily hold me over until I get around to DCC. ;D

[wm3798]

This is what came out of the box...


And now...


Here's the almost finished product.  I'm pretty happy with the overall appearance after weathering it a little.  One word of caution:  Don't mess with the handrails if you don't have to.  I pulled one set of end rails, but couldn't get them to sit right, and while trying to remove the side railings, found they are glued in.  I nearly wrecked them trying to yank them out, then had a devil of a time trying to poke them back in.

That's probably more a function of my fat fingers and bad eyes, but I have a feeling that I share that in common with more of you guys than not... :-\



I just have to do the number boards (which look too small to carry a 4-digit number) add a bell below the sill on the engineer's side, and do the m.u. cables. 

This is a damn good engine for $35 bucks.  Now all we need is some Wagon Top cabooses to follow it around...

Lee

[bsoplinger]

Now all we need is some Wagon Top cabooses to follow it around...

Did they really have wagon top cabeese? I know they had wagon top box cars and at least one (experimental?) covered hopper, but a caboose?

[wm3798]

There was a gazillion of them!  I remember walking through Knobmount Yard back in 89... there were tons of them stored waiting to meet their maker.  I wish I could find THAT roll of film!

Lee

[Mark5]

yeah, lots of them wagontops.

[SAH]

Here's the almost finished product.  I'm pretty happy with the overall appearance after weathering it a little.  One word of caution:  Don't mess with the handrails if you don't have to.  I pulled one set of end rails, but couldn't get them to sit right, and while trying to remove the side railings, found they are glued in.  I nearly wrecked them trying to yank them out, then had a devil of a time trying to poke them back in.

That's probably more a function of my fat fingers and bad eyes, but I have a feeling that I share that in common with more of you guys than not... :-\

Now all we need is some Wagon Top cabooses to follow it around...

Lee

A trick I learned from my aircraft modeler Uncle:  Put the shell in the freezer for 8 hrs or so.  The glue will usually let go when you apply pressure on the part.  Depends on the glue I'd guess but it has just about always worked for me.  I tried it with the H16-44.  All handrails came free except one - the last one I did, so it might have warmed up a bit.

The B&O led the league in cool cabooses IMO.  LOTS of unusual body styles and paint shemes.

Steve

[wm3798]

so NOW you tell me! :

[SAH]

Well, ya didn't TELL me you were gonna take the handrails off!   ;D

[wm3798]

I added some weight to the frame tonight, which vastly improved the pulling capability of the engine.  I took a couple of lead weights from an old Life Like GP-38, and cut it and formed it to fill in some of the gaps.  Here's a couple diagrams showing where I put it...

The yellow indicates where I added some weight to the frame. There is room under the walkways, as well as under the short hood and under the decoder. I used lead, as it is easily shaped with hand tools, and very dense. I was careful to insulate the two upper pieces to keep them from contacting the split frame mechanism.

It's surprising how much weight (and therefore tractive effort) you can add to a locomotive by tucking bits of lead where-ever they fit. The yellow shows where I put a few bits in the shell of the Bachmann H-16-44.  I also pounded some lead into a thin sheet, and put a piece inside the cab roof, and a couple other chunks inside the top of the short hood.  I secured the weights into the frame with CA super glue.

This added enough tractive effort to increase the number of cars it could pull up the grade on my layout from about 4 to 10.  That's a respectable number for a single engine on my layout.

I also reset the CV's on the decoder to improve the low-end performance and to cut back the top speed.  I upped the starting voltage to 4, which gives the 3 pole motor enough kick to eliminate stalls.  I also turned on CV54 so I can go from Road Switcher speed settings to Switching speed using F-6.  This gives you excellent slow speed control for uncoupling ramps, and other switching maneuvres.

When the budget permits, I might just get two more of these to run as road diesels.  In a lash-up of 3, you probably wouldn't have to add the weight. They really are great little engines once you spend some quality time with them.

Lee