Glue Shell Scenery

[Ian MacMillan]

Just double checked my roll of Rosin paper I got from Lowes....its 500' not 100' like I first stated. 36"x500' for $8 isnt bad.

[John]

You can also use the brown paper grocery bags ..

[Ian MacMillan]

You can also use the brown paper grocery bags ..

How well did that work? They were typically waxed up here and I didn't know how well the glue would hold up to that.

And its almost impossible to find them at the stores here at least!

[wm3798]

I suppose news print isn't bulky enough to work?  You can also buy rolls of kraft paper (the kind used to wrap packages) in the office supply aisle of any major retailer.

Lee

[Caleb Austin]

I just did a experiment and if you add some glue to the sculptamold it stay's on better.

[Caleb Austin]

or if you add it wile its still tacky

[John]

I just did a experiment and if you add some glue to the sculptamold it stay's on better.

Got some pics?

[Caleb Austin]

Pics coming up as soon as I can get my camera to work

[Caleb Austin]

This is what it's like when you put on the sculpamold on the glue shell. it
slips around and is hard to apply



And it somtimes breaks off



when you add glue too the sculpamold it wont break off but it's still difficult
to apply. but if you add the sculptamold when the glue is still tacky, it will
stay on AND is easy to apply.



This is a hill done with the sculptamold over tacky glue method, it is very
sturdy and dose not break off.



Here is more sculptamold over glue.



some more sculptamold over tacky glueshell.


this is my layout. All the areas where you see the white sculptamold was
done with the " sculptamold over tacky glueshell " method.

[tom mann]

Great idea.  Do you guys prefer this over foam?  It looks like it could go quicker, but does not have the control that carving has.

[Ian MacMillan]

Great idea.  Do you guys prefer this over foam?  It looks like it could go quicker, but does not have the control that carving has.

So far I like it much better. I worked on a 8' section tonight and it went pretty quickly.

[John]

Great idea.  Do you guys prefer this over foam?  It looks like it could go quicker, but does not have the control that carving has.

6 of one .. 1/2 dozen of the other .. I think the foam gives you a little more control over intricate areas that you need to carve, but .. the cost is much higher ..

the glueshell is not bad, and if you take your time, you can shape it pretty well ..

So far, I have done both sides of that NOLIX, and I have used the equivalent of 2 cups of glue, 4 cardboard boxes, and maybe 8 linear feet of brown paper .. considering the gallon of elmers was about $12 and the paper was $8 or so .. for $20 I will be able cover a good portion of the layout. The equivalent of foam would run at least $10-18 for each 2x8' sheet.


Considering I will need to do about 200 linear feet of scenery, it will give me a good start on at least some basic landforms which can then be detailed a little at a time once they have some basic ground cover over them .. I don't plan on making woodland scenics rich either .. I saved all the sawdust from cutting the plywood and will soon be dyeing it with RIT, (black, brown, green) and then screening it to various grades. That will form the basis for the ground cover, which will go on in a few layers, and finally, a thin coat of ground foam, to finish off the texture ..

[John]

this is my layout. All the areas where you see the white sculptamold was
done with the " sculptamold over tacky glueshell " method.

Good job .. while I don't plan on covering the whole thing with sculpta, I can see where it would prove to be a benefit .. especially with strength ..

[wm3798]

I'm still not sold.  All the work that's been done on my layout has been done with three sheets of 2x8 2" foam, including the Chaffee Branch, which is still in the garage waiting for the day my son moves back into his old room.  When I shop for foam, I ask for broken or damaged pieces at a discount, so I save money that way.

For your modular benchwork design, John, I would think that foam would be a more logical choice, since you could joint the foam at the module edge, and just apply a skim coat of Sculptamold to mask the joint.  I know that salvaging scenery isn't on your short list in the event you move, but with the foam base you'd at least have a shot at it.

Lee

[John]

For your modular benchwork design, John, I would think that foam would be a more logical choice, since you could joint the foam at the module edge, and just apply a skim coat of Sculptamold to mask the joint.  I know that salvaging scenery isn't on your short list in the event you move, but with the foam base you'd at least have a shot at it.

Lee

I actually am considering that, and at the module joints, I am putting in a cardboard end on each side of the joint ..

But, you are right .. If I move, the scenery will most likely go