Decoder possibilities for the E-R Sharknose

[OldEastRR]

I know that long ago DT made a drop-in decoder for these things but that's long OOP. But since the loco was designed for DCC use I'm wondering if somebody found some other decoder for some other application that would work in these. Failing that, how much trouble to add a stock DCC board to them?

[djconway]

For non sound I've used DZ126.  Lots of room in there.

[Maletrain]

I have an A-B-B-A set, still in DC.  What I would really like to do is put DCC in all 4 with sound in the As.  Thinking ESU.  Do they have a suitable Baldwin sound project?  And, any thought on fitting?

[EL3632]

I put non-sound decoders in mine. I would like to put sound in eventually, but would like to find a way to either make the current motors quieter or re-equip them with quieter motors.
I used either a Digitrax DN166I1D https://yankeedabbler.com/n-scale-dig-dn166i1d-series-6-board-replacement-dcc-control-dec, or a TCS IMFTA4 https://yankeedabbler.com/1330-tcs-train-control-systems-imfta4-irc-decoder-scale-n-part-745-1330/, both for new Intermountain F units with wired motors. The decoder boards with the feet attached will work, but the feet do not fit, and cannot be used, therefore, getting the version without the feet installed (and needing to be removed) makes sense to me.

The screw terminals on the Intermountain boards are in the same place as the ER board, and using the existing screws will work with no modifications.

The headlight is so short due to the light pipe for the engine reaching as far back as the board. To prevent the light from falling off (happened far too many times), I angled the light down, which seems to prevent it from snapping off randomly.

You will need to run wires from the decoder board to the motor. I was fine soldering directly to the motor, though used as little time on the iron as possible.

Some installation pictures:


Side View



Top View



With shell

[Bill H]

Not to high jack the thread, but putting sound in these, well, the volume needs to be turned up a notch or two, they really growl and I was never able to quiet them down. Perhaps in the process of installing DCC, someone might find a way to stop the growl...

[OldEastRR]

The really tricky thing is to try to mount MTL couplers on them.  Luckily you only need do the rear of the B, and close-coupling the two units isn't half as bad.