Kato Bearing Block - Correct Orientation

[oakcreekco]

I'm servicing some older Kato -9 locos. All are pre 2000. Some were purchased new, others used.

What is the factory correct orientation of the bearing blocks? When frame half is on the workbench, should the sides with the cast in grooves face directly at you, (towards the loco sides), or should they face the loco top and bottom?

I know, I know, put them in the way they came out. They are installed both ways on several locos so far, so that's why I'm asking.

Appreciate the input.

[ednadolski]

I know, I know, put them in the way they came out. They are installed both ways on several locos so far, so that's why I'm asking.

If that's the case with the new-purchased ones, then it probably doesn't matter.

Ed

[peteski]

I used to ponder the same thing, but I believe it really doesn't matter.  Besides, on the recent models (like my NYC E7 loco, all 4 sides are identical.

I used to install them so the grooved side faced locos' top/bottom.  My thinking was that the springy phosphor bronze strip should contact the bearing on the smooth side.  But this is just a hypothesis (I don't recall how they were installed at the factory).  I also bend those springy strips further out of the chassis (to exert more pressure on the bearing block to make sure it doesn't move laterally when the loco is assembled. Again, I did that just because I felt it was a good thing to do.

[woodchip]

Great question,Ive always wondered what it is. Hopefully someone from Kato will answer this.

[wazzou]

Great question,Ive always wondered what it is. Hopefully someone from Atlas will answer this.

I doubt Atlas will take any interest in answering a question where it pertains to KATO’s models.   

[Steveruger45]

I used to ponder the same thing, but I believe it really doesn't matter.  Besides, on the recent models (like my NYC E7 loco, all 4 sides are identical.

I used to install them so the grooved side faced locos' top/bottom.  My thinking was that the springy phosphor bronze strip should contact the bearing on the smooth side.  But this is just a hypothesis (I don't recall how they were installed at the factory).  I also bend those springy strips further out of the chassis (to exert more pressure on the bearing block to make sure it doesn't move laterally when the loco is assembled. Again, I did that just because I felt it was a good thing to do.

When I can’t be sure which way is correct I’ve done the exact opposite. Grooved side of the bearing block on the sides so that the springy phosphor bronze strip would lodge in the bearing block groove.  I also bend those springy strips further out of the chassis (to exert more pressure on the bearing block to make sure it doesn't move laterally when the loco is assembled. Again, I did that just because I felt it was a good thing to do.

[peteski]

When I can’t be sure which way is correct I’ve done the exact opposite. Grooved side of the bearing block on the sides so that the springy phosphor bronze strip would lodge in the bearing block groove.

Considering that the recently made bearing blocks have the groove (well it is actually a groove with a triangular cross-section protrusion in the middle) on all 4 sides, your method seems to make sense.  I found these in my E7 which does not even use the metal spring strips.  The bearing blocks are held by a plastic cover.  Those bearing blocks are universal, and used on all Kato models which use chassis-mounted worms.

[woodchip]

I doubt Atlas will take any interest in answering a question where it pertains to KATO’s models.   

     Thank you for correction.

[nightmare0331]

I've seen them come both ways.  (solid out, or solid side up/down)

I've repaired models and shipped them out both ways. (solid out, or solid side up/down)

Just as a matter of trying to keep things consistent, I'd always make sure on the same model they were orientated the same way, but I think that was more of my OCD.

It makes not a lick of difference. the more important thing is while you have them apart to move the gray plastic bearings out and put a drop of light lubricant on the shaft itself then slide the gray bearing back into place....not just squirt it down or gum it up with PTFE paste.

Enjoy!

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

[oakcreekco]

I've seen them come both ways.  (solid out, or solid side up/down)

I've repaired models and shipped them out both ways. (solid out, or solid side up/down)

Just as a matter of trying to keep things consistent, I'd always make sure on the same model they were orientated the same way, but I think that was more of my OCD.

It makes not a lick of difference. the more important thing is while you have them apart to move the gray plastic bearings out and put a drop of light lubricant on the shaft itself then slide the gray bearing back into place....not just squirt it down or gum it up with PTFE paste.

Enjoy!

Kelley.
www.dufordmodelworks.com

Good advice.

I've always thought that there has to be a reason for those grooves. It may not be for actual function, but something in the manufacturing process that "uses" them. Doubt if the factory will tell us any specifics, but they are there for some reason or the other.

As far as lubrication, I've been using one drop of the Labelle 102 gear lube on the worms, and a really small drop on the bearing shafts.

Have over 50 hours on a few recent serviced locos, and they run very well. Less is more, and the right lube in the right place helps.