Sound Decoder & Speaker Right Next to Motor & Magnets. Problem?

[Sumner]

Instead of modifying one weight how about removing it.  Install the decoder and speaker and use an alternative weight to fill the area as much as possible.  Here is an install that was documented here back in 2016.  Looks like Scott might have modified the weight but I don't see a good reason you couldn't remove it if the lead is a concern....

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=39785.0

Sumner

[tehachapifan]

Thanks for the info, guys!

Also, thanks for the link showing an install with the read weight removed. Interesting that it doesn't really address how the installer dealt with the loss of the worm cover, as the worm cover is nicely molded into the underside of the weight. I guess the decoder itself is acting as a (rather crude) worm cover?

What I might do to make things easier is just put a LokPilot in this powered unit and then put a function-only sound decoder from ESU in one or both of the dummy B units. Not perfect, as the lead unit would be silent, but it would be basically the same setup with some popular steam installs (GS-4, for example), where the sound decoder and speaker are in the tender.

[nickelplate759]

If I were opposed to cutting the lead weight (it's what I did, but I understand why someone might not want to) I'd fashion a replacement out of something relatively easy to work and still moderately heavy, like brass.  Cut some moderately thick (.060?)  brass sheet to be the worm cover, add some more on the sides, add layers as you can fit them to build it up, and put the the decoder on top as in the photo.

 The chassis will still pull pretty well even with a lot less weight over the rear truck.

[peteski]

The worm covers on earlier similarly designed plastic chassis Life-Like (and similar design Model Power) locos were just flat plastic lids with little posts which plugged into the holes on the top of the worm cradle.  IIRC, those covers were not affixed in any other way (or maybe with a piece of a clear plastic tape, which after few years of contact with the overabundant lubrication tape's adhesive would lose its stickiness, so it did not hold the covers well).   They still stayed on.

When I had my E7 apart the other night I did not check how tightly the worm bearings were seated in the plastic cradles.  They might be tightly press-fit, so no cover is  needed (except maybe to keep the grease from splattering).

If you check how tightly the worm bearings are installed into their cradles then there might not be any need for a cover. Or just fashion a simple styrene rectangle cover and use couple of 00-90 screws on opposite corners to retain the cover.