Testors Spray Paint Won't Dry

[BCR751]

Scrubbed the part with 90% IPA and the crappy paint came right off.  Now, to start over......

Doug

[wazzou]

Scrubbed the part with 90% IPA and the crappy paint came right off.  Now, to start over......

Doug

Prime.

[davefoxx]

One of these days I have to start thinning out my collection...
Charlie Vlk

I see what you did there. 

DFF

[up1950s]

Decades ago when I was plinking upstate I used to make many oddball stationary and moving targets. One time while thinning out some old and unused kids toys I tried Testers bombing a doll to make it look less human . There was something about the plastic / rubbery substance that stopped the paint from drying , even after a few weeks . That same can of paint worked on other stuff at the same time . I finally decided teaching the kids to shoot at a doll was not a suitable target for them or me and my squeeze . Maybe divine intervention , maybe chemical reaction .

[nkalanaga]

Dip the doll in static grass, or other "hair/fur", and it becomes a critter, maybe a gremlin, or a small troll.  Those you can safely shoot.

[up1950s]

Dip the doll in static grass, or other "hair/fur", and it becomes a critter, maybe a gremlin, or a small troll.  Those you can safely shoot.

Cool idea , the doll becomes a Groundhog . or Prairie Dog .

[muktown128]

My jar of Testors silver paint from the late 70's/early 80's was still in good condition - liquid and smooth (no chunks or seeds).  I brushed some out on a plastic sprue.  It dried OK and looked good.  I actually thought it looked better than the jar in the variety pack I bought at Hobby Lobby.  I have old jars of most of the other colors.

[JeffB]

I've had similar problems with Krylon grey primer on Shapeways prints...  The paint takes forever to dry, remaining tacky for weeks.  It wasn't the paint, because I checked the overspray from painting the 3D prints and it was perfectly dry a day later.

Ever since, I clean the Shapeways prints at a minimum overnight in Mineral Spirits.  Pull them out and blow them off with compressed air.  A quick dunk (a minute or two) in Acetone to remove any of the Mineral Spirits residue, then blow them off again.  If they are details (as opposed to a gearbox or something that won't be seen), I grit blast them with my Paasche "Air Eraser" prior to the dunk in Acetone.  This removes any of the powder you sometimes see on Shapeways high detail 3D prints.

Talking about old paint...  I have several bottles of Floquil, Polly Scale and Testors that are easily 35yrs old and are still fine.  Not all of them mind you.  Some dried up years ago and have been pitched.  But a lot of them.  Have some acrylic craft paints are about 20yrs old and were a little sludgy, but after adding some distilled water and a good shaking, were A-OK.

My current bottle (that I use periodically for touch ups) of Floquil "Rail Brown" (best color for rusted rails IMO) is at least 20yrs old.  I guess I got lucky with a lot of the paints I have.

JB

[peteski]

  I guess I got lucky with a lot of the paints I have.

JB

I don't think this really is about luck -- it is more about making sure the seal and bottle lip are clean, and that the cap is screwed on tight (air-tight seal). I always make sure the mating surfaces are clean and the cap is on tight. I also give the bottle a little shake after tightening the cap.  The goal is that if the seal is not 100% tight, the paint will fill the voids, then dry, providing extra sealing.

[MK]

What about storing them upside down (cap down) to create that air seal?

[peteski]

What about storing them upside down (cap down) to create that air seal?

I've heard of that but nope, I won't do  that.  The pigment ends up settling in the cap, and it makes a mess when opening the bottle (even after shaking).  When stored upright, the pigment settles on the bottom of the bottle, and if needed it can be easily stirred into the solvent

[JeffB]

I've heard of that but nope, I won't do  that.  The pigment ends up settling in the cap, and it makes a mess when opening the bottle (even after shaking).  When stored upright, the pigment settles on the bottom of the bottle, and if needed it can be easily stirred into the solvent

I've not stored paints upside down for ages, but one thing I've done for years is throw a few small stainless steel screws into each jar of paint.  Greatly aids in mixing the paint during shaking.

I don't do screws anymore though...  With the advent of Amazon and Chinese goods, cheap stainless steel ball bearings are easy to source by the hundred lot, so I use 4-5 of them instead.

JB

[peteski]

I've not stored paints upside down for ages, but one thing I've done for years is throw a few small stainless steel screws into each jar of paint.  Greatly aids in mixing the paint during shaking.

I don't do screws anymore though...  With the advent of Amazon and Chinese goods, cheap stainless steel ball bearings are easy to source by the hundred lot, so I use 4-5 of them instead.

JB

I also put glass beads in the bottles, but those don't get into tight corners.  Regardless, for me just shakign a tightly closed bottle is enough, I have some that I haven't opened for over 20 years and none (or very little) solvent has evaporated.  Oh, I forgot to mention that I also make my own gaskets from heavy aluminum foil.  The stock plastic coated cardboard gaskets are not ideal seal.

How do I know if the solvent has been evaporating? After I tighten the cap and the paint drains down from the neck, I mark the paint level and date on the bottle.



I realize that it is a bit OCD, but I find it an enjoyable part of my hobby. 

[Chris333]

I tossed out 3 bottles of dried up paint last night