44-tonner coupler change

[jym1]

Hiya, folks. I'm wondering if anyone ever did a tutorial on installing z-scale couplers on a Bachmann 44-tonner? Jim Maurer

[randgust]

I'm not sure if this is helpful or not - but the only coupler I could find when I scratchbuilt my 44-tonner that was short enough was whacking the mounting plate off the extendable passenger car coupler box and just glueing the box to the sill with Goo.   I've used that tactic any time I have an extremely short area to mount an MT coupler, just buying a passenger truck set for the coupler boxes.

I'll always prefer a Z box but they are long.   I've learned to live with that on my Climax A front-mounts where you really have to have a working box, but it raises the question of what looks worse - an extended box or an oversize knuckle.    On my model B I used the oversized knuckle that looks way big on a small model.

I made that 44 tonner in 2004, when Ron Beardon first came up with the concept, long before I even learned to resin cast and way before Bachmann.   Photos of the coupler mount available.

[Jim Starbuck]

I put 905s on mine.
I don’t remember exactly what I did but I’ll look at it when I get home tomorrow.

Jim

[Mark5]

Chris installed 905s on his, good photos and a nice diagram here (click on the links in his post):

https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=41758.msg522862#msg522862

Mark

[randgust]

I'd certainly try Chris' approach first and only try mine if the 905-box-chop doesn't work.

I've thinned the back end of the 905 boxes but never successfully taken the entire back end off, but in this case it looks like it doesn't mess up the coupler performance so I'd say go with it.   I've noted that if the back of the coupler shanks rubs into anything when being pushed, it may 'hang' (like into the front of a truck frame) so you need to make sure that neither the truck or the coupler shank can rub into each other.   The coupler shank may have a little flash on the back that needs trimmed off as well.

[jym1]

Thanks guys, for your quick and helpful replies. I've got a coupla 905's so I'll give it a try. Now, where's my Opti-visor? Regards, Jim Maurer

[nkalanaga]

Yes, you can remove the rear of the 905 box.  The limit is removing so much that the spring falls out, but there's no point going that far, as you still have the shank sticking out.  I've shortened a lot of them on narrow gauge cars, and it's a lot less frustrating if you do the cutting after the box is screwed on.  If it's welded together you can do it before, but if it comes apart, it's very hard to get back together.

I trim the back, on these and the 1025s, with a standard #11 blade, making several light cuts, rather than trying to chop the end of.  If you do end up squeezing the box a little, and the coupler binds, pry the end back up a bit with the knife.