Drive for Peco Turntable?

[Maletrain]

I picked up a Peco 80' turntable in N scale (cheap) because it fit my steam engine short-line environment.  Now I am considering how to drive it.  The directions show Meccano parts, but those seem to be British, and Gilbert seems to be gone.  Besides, those don't seem to be in any way indexable.

Soooo, I am looking here for suggestions.

[pdx1955]

I had one of those in the past and I had purchased one of those slow-speed motors typically used for switch machines to directly drive it. If the turntable is within 2' of the benchwork edge, you don't need indexing, and I don't think a short table needs it anyway especially with a slow motor and a push-button control so you can jog it a bit at a time.

[nkalanaga]

If it's within 2 feet of the layout edge, how about a hand crank and belt drive?  Many small turntables were never powered.

Somebody years ago made a drive for the Peco N turntable, that just screwed(?) on, ready to use.  I have one, but don't remember who made it, or even where I bought it.  It's also installed, so I can't read whatever might be written on it...

[pmpexpress]

Locomotech

https://www.locomotech.com/

https://www.locomotech.com/orderonline.html

[rodsup9000]

 When ConCor was importing the Heljan N scale turntable many years ago, you could buy the powering kit for it. All it was, was one of those slow motion switch machines of the time. It came with brass tubing to connect the motor to the plastic shaft of the turntable.  I'm sure with a little tinkering around, you could make one work for the Peco.



http://www.builders-in-scale.com/bis/sm-home.html

[nkalanaga]

Neville:  That looks like mine, so I'd say they made it.  Nice to see they're still in business.

Since my railroad is DC, I wired the turntable to the roundhouse track selector switch, with a toggle switch.  Selecting "track" and a track powers that track, and the locomotive.  Selecting the turntable disconnects the track power, and connects the throttle to the turntable motor.  Once the turntable is aligned, throw the toggle, and run your locomotive.

[MVW]

I picked up a Peco 80' turntable in N scale (cheap) because it fit my steam engine short-line environment.  Now I am considering how to drive it.  The directions show Meccano parts, but those seem to be British, and Gilbert seems to be gone.  Besides, those don't seem to be in any way indexable.

Soooo, I am looking here for suggestions.

I'll be interested in hearing how this turns out. Keep us posted on the installation, please.

Jim

[Maletrain]

I'll be interested in hearing how this turns out. Keep us posted on the installation, please.

Jim

It's going to be a long time before I get to it.  I'll post when I do. What I am doing now is planning how to turn it and wire it. 

I am particularly interested in thinking through the wiring process very carefully.  The Peco system looks like there are a bunch of rubbing surfaces and some non-rubbing surfaces for electrical contact, which might get less than reliable over time.  No sense having a turntable that is highly detailed and well indexed but doesn't have reliable power to the rails.  I have been thinking about using the old phono-jack connector trick to make a center axis dual electrical pickup.  But, I have not (yet?) figured a way to do that and also drive the bridge from the same axis in a manner that allows me to simply pick the bridge up out of the pit from above.

Ideas?

[peteski]

It's going to be a long time before I get to it.  I'll post when I do. What I am doing now is planning how to turn it and wire it. 

I am particularly interested in thinking through the wiring process very carefully.  The Peco system looks like there are a bunch of rubbing surfaces and some non-rubbing surfaces for electrical contact, which might get less than reliable over time.  No sense having a turntable that is highly detailed and well indexed but doesn't have reliable power to the rails.  I have been thinking about using the old phono-jack connector trick to make a center axis dual electrical pickup.  But, I have not (yet?) figured a way to do that and also drive the bridge from the same axis in a manner that allows me to simply pick the bridge up out of the pit from above.

Ideas?

Isn't a phone jack using rubbing surfaces contact too? 

I have used a brushes-and-rings power delivery method for several carnival rides to deliver power for the LEDs on rotating part of the ride.  That method is very reliable (it has been working flawlessly for over 20 years).

[Maletrain]

Isn't a phone jack using rubbing surfaces contact too? 

I have used a brushes-and-rings power delivery method for several carnival rides to deliver power for the LEDs on rotating part of the ride.  That method is very reliable (it has been working flawlessly for over 20 years).

The idea of the phono plug is that it can be easily unplugged and cleaned.  Plus, the non-soldered surfaces all move against each other.  In contrast, the Peco turntable is designed with a couple of plungers that press against the bottom of the track rails on one end and some half-circle plates on the other end. The ends of the plungers that are against the plates do move.  But, the ends against the rails do not move.  Worse, the plungers are 3 parts that slide over each other with an captured spring to maintain force on the ends.  Those electrical connections do not move.  So, they are likely to become high resistance over time.  I would prefer solder joints from the rail to one of the mating surfaces of the phono plug, and solder joints from the opposite side of the plug to the reverser and then on to the track power bus.  But, then, how do I turn the table -- and still keep it removable?

[peteski]

The idea of the phono plug is that it can be easily unplugged and cleaned.  Plus, the non-soldered surfaces all move against each other.  In contrast, the Peco turntable is designed with a couple of plungers that press against the bottom of the track rails on one end and some half-circle plates on the other end. The ends of the plungers that are against the plates do move.  But, the ends against the rails do not move.  Worse, the plungers are 3 parts that slide over each other with an captured spring to maintain force on the ends.  Those electrical connections do not move.  So, they are likely to become high resistance over time.  I would prefer solder joints from the rail to one of the mating surfaces of the phono plug, and solder joints from the opposite side of the plug to the reverser and then on to the track power bus.  But, then, how do I turn the table -- and still keep it removable?

Got it - makes sense.

[SandyEggoJake]

+1 for https://www.locomotech.com/

Want another stupid simple way to motorize, power route & index (at least to fixed positions) the peco?  Bury a cheapo Atlas Turntable below it.  I considered both the above, but have opted to custom build a pit & Gallows / Armstrong type over a buried Atlas. 

[Maletrain]

Concerning the desire to use a phono plug, drive it, and still have it removeable, I am wondering if I could use a stereo plug (2 rings for electrical connections as well as the end for the 3rd connection) and mill a "key" on the end to sit into a drive slot on a motorized shaft.  That way, the whole bridge could just lift out of the pit without disassembling anything.

Another reason I am not enthusiastic about the OEM Peco electrification is that it includes a dead section in the rotation to provide for two flat electrical pickups on the same radius.  That means that sound-equipped locos will do a reset on the table.  Peco could have made 2 rings of different diameter and avoided that problem.  But, I suspect their design predates not just sound, but also DCC and ARs.

[narrowminded]

Concerning the desire to use a phono plug, drive it, and still have it removeable, I am wondering if I could use a stereo plug (2 rings for electrical connections as well as the end for the 3rd connection) and mill a "key" on the end to sit into a drive slot on a motorized shaft.  That way, the whole bridge could just lift out of the pit without disassembling anything.

Another reason I am not enthusiastic about the OEM Peco electrification is that it includes a dead section in the rotation to provide for two flat electrical pickups on the same radius.  That means that sound-equipped locos will do a reset on the table.  Peco could have made 2 rings of different diameter and avoided that problem.  But, I suspect their design predates not just sound, but also DCC and ARs.

If you are really committed to this approach I could probably make a slip ring shaft for you.  Much like a commutator on a motor but continuous rings.  I have some nickel silver round bar for making wheels that could be used for the ring without ordering a special cut piece.  And if you wanted to get really fancy maybe get some small motor brushes for the contacts and 3D print a brush holder/ mount bracket of some sort.  The motor could be one of those gear reduced units all over the web.  I'd really like to see the components if this was to be pursued.