Author Topic: Tehachapi Loop II  (Read 48399 times)

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svedblen

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Re: Tehachapi Loop II
« Reply #210 on: February 05, 2018, 10:38:18 AM »
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Hmm. Do you really need clouds? Don't you think they distract from the more important part - the foreground? Also real skies change all the time, while backdrops do not. It is like the problem with the vehicles on our model roads. They just sit there, breaking the illusion. At least theoretically, I prefer backdrop skies that do not show. Acting more like a deep void, if you see what I mean.
Or maybe I just envy your sky painting abilities  :facepalm: :trollface:
Lennart

ednadolski

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Re: Tehachapi Loop II
« Reply #211 on: February 05, 2018, 10:37:26 PM »
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Hmm. Do you really need clouds? Don't you think they distract from the more important part - the foreground?

If (a very big if indeed ;) ) I could figure out a way to paint a sky with smooth transitions from the lighter blue to the deeper, then yes I think I would probably go for the cloudless day look.    No doubt in my mind that would be a great-looking day on Tehachapi:

https://farm4.static.flickr.com/3939/33015323023_0beef6e2eb_b.jpg
https://farm8.static.flickr.com/7081/7355744894_d51c8dd994_b.jpg
https://farm8.static.flickr.com/7140/6946106530_da1600aa62_b.jpg

Certainly any large, dramatic clouds would easily dominate a scene, esp. on a large backdrop.   I've been hoping to get something more like the high, distant clouds in this pic:

http://www.railpictures.net/photo/245487/

With clouds like this which are more subtle and have a less distinct form, it should (again I hope) create a sense of space and distance since the eye has less to focus in on.  On my previous Loop backdrop, I painted the puffy-looking type of clouds, but found that sometimes they could become focal points in themselves.

Of course, we all know that on model railroad backdrops, the real reason for adding clouds is to cover up the spots where the sky color blending didn't come out too convincingly :D.

Or maybe I just envy your sky painting abilities  :facepalm: :trollface:

Well pretty much anything will look better at a sufficient distance, and/or in small, on-screen images.   But if you saw any of my feeble painting in-person it would be a pretty sobering difference.  If I don't get much better at painting before long, then I may have to start thinking about a photo image of a clear sky (on a 38' long backdrop, the cost of that would add up in a hurry  :scared:).


Ed

Point353

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Re: Tehachapi Loop II
« Reply #212 on: February 05, 2018, 11:03:43 PM »
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If (a very big if indeed ;) ) I could figure out a way to paint a sky with smooth transitions from the lighter blue to the deeper, then yes I think I would probably go for the cloudless day look.   
Have you ever experimented with this technique:


ednadolski

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Re: Tehachapi Loop II
« Reply #213 on: February 05, 2018, 11:51:50 PM »
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Aha yes, I always like to watch Bob Ross at work.   He primes his canvas with a special paint called "Liquid White"  which is the key to this kind of blending (IIRC Bill Alexander did something similar).  Catch is, this is a technique than only works for oil paints, which unfortunately are unsuitable for a backdrop due to the shine that they have.   I tried a sample (16x20 I think) and it was easy enough to blend, but after it dried and I held it up in my backdrop area,  almost all I could see was the shine due to the angle of the layout lighting (which cannot be changed).  If it were not for that, then it would be a lot easier for me to just go with the oil paints.  I could even use the water-mixable variety, to avoid using turpentine (even the odorless thinners for traditional oils still need substantial ventilation).  From what I have learned, there really is no good way to get rid of the shine, you can only tone it down but still there will be some.

Ed

Point353

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Re: Tehachapi Loop II
« Reply #214 on: February 06, 2018, 12:34:35 AM »
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Aha yes, I always like to watch Bob Ross at work.   He primes his canvas with a special paint called "Liquid White"  which is the key to this kind of blending (IIRC Bill Alexander did something similar).  Catch is, this is a technique than only works for oil paints, which unfortunately are unsuitable for a backdrop due to the shine that they have.   I tried a sample (16x20 I think) and it was easy enough to blend, but after it dried and I held it up in my backdrop area,  almost all I could see was the shine due to the angle of the layout lighting (which cannot be changed).  If it were not for that, then it would be a lot easier for me to just go with the oil paints. From what I have learned, there really is no good way to get rid of the shine, you can only tone it down but still there will be some.
Have you tried applying matte varnish once the oil paint completely dried?

ednadolski

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Re: Tehachapi Loop II
« Reply #215 on: February 06, 2018, 01:22:34 AM »
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Have you tried applying matte varnish once the oil paint completely dried?

According to W&N the oils have to dry for 6-12 months before a varnish can be applied.   It hasn't been that long since I painted it  ;)

Ed
« Last Edit: February 06, 2018, 01:27:16 AM by ednadolski »

svedblen

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Re: Tehachapi Loop II
« Reply #216 on: February 06, 2018, 04:48:03 AM »
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My real-life experience of western US scenery is very limited but as far as I recall the great skies are an important part of the overall experience. So my idea of aiming at an unvisible sky  is maybe counterproductive in your case. You might need a proper sky to achive the effect you are after. I'm sure there must be some way you can make this work. If you drop the clouds and go for the look in the picures you linked to in a previous post, is it possible to create the haze by air brushing? A light mist only? I though that you perhaps do not need that many different shades if you can apply a single lighter shade in coats of varying thickness. But you might already have tried that?
Lennart

3DTrains

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Re: Tehachapi Loop II
« Reply #217 on: February 06, 2018, 01:25:33 PM »
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I though that you perhaps do not need that many different shades if you can apply a single lighter shade in coats of varying thickness.

It's my experience to do the exact opposite - start with a even light background and apply layers of darker color over, with more layers at the top of the background.

A light blue, almost white, would be appropriate for the haze normally seen looking west into the valley from tunnel 10. Begin by covering the entire canvas (background) with the lighter color with a brush. Using a paint gun, spray a watered-down azure blue from the top of the background to below midpoint. Once dry, continue to add layers from the top toward the middle of the backdrop until adding a final pass at the top only. Airbrush wisps of white to simulate clouds as desired. :)

Cheers!
Marc - Riverside

ednadolski

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Re: Tehachapi Loop II
« Reply #218 on: March 26, 2018, 09:41:40 PM »
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Well, life has a way of changing things, and in my case I have no choice but to bring this project to a far-too-early end.   More info can be found here:   https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=44343.msg569927#msg569927

Ed