DELUXE MATERIALS ????

[thomasjmdavis]

My son gave me a new soldering iron for Christmas. Fancy, digital, controls in the handle, no idea what all it can do yet, instructions in 2 point type so need bifocals AND a magnifier.  But a small spool of 60/40 included in the kit. Like a lot of folks here, I thought that was long gone. 

Years ago (like 40 or 50- the days when there were electronics supply stores) when I was building Heathkits and repairing amplifiers, I bought a 5 pound spool- been using it ever since, still have a pound or two left- thought I was hiding contraband.

[peteski]

Nice, Rod.  What ACC did you use?  Did you buy their super thin?

What makes their "super-thin" different than any brand thin CA glue?  I suspect that it is just marketing. 
Any thin CA will readily wick into all sorts of places (wanted or unwanted).

[Santa Fe Guy]

Nice, Rod.  What ACC did you use?  Did you buy their super thin?

Nothing fancy, if I recall it was from a pack of 10 tubes that cost $2.00. Yep very thin and ran in quite easily.
Rod.

[Chris333]

How was it "easy to pour"?  I either got way too much all over the place that was a pain to pick up or a few balls would get bunched up and clog the nozzle. I had to pour them out into a bigger container and place each ball one at a time with needle nose. I used it the same way to fill in under a HOn30 flatcar.

[MK]

What makes their "super-thin" different than any brand thin CA glue?  I suspect that it is just marketing. 
Any thin CA will readily wick into all sorts of places (wanted or unwanted).

Bingo!  I would not use thin CA.  Think about the miniscule contact points between each ball.  Not much holding surface area.  I would pour in finishing epoxy or warmed up (to decrease viscosity) slow setting epoxy and fill the voids between each ball.  This encapsulates everything.

We do this for radio contral sailboat keels.  Pour lead shot, mix some polyester resin and fill it until it reaches the top.  Let cure.  Done.

[peteski]

How was it "easy to pour"? 

Ah , another marketing term.  Just like "new and improved", "new formula", and dozen other similar meaningless marketing terms to entice potential buyers.

[Santa Fe Guy]

How was it "easy to pour"?  I either got way too much all over the place that was a pain to pick up or a few balls would get bunched up and clog the nozzle. I had to pour them out into a bigger container and place each ball one at a time with needle nose. I used it the same way to fill in under a HOn30 flatcar.

I had a few balls escape but nothing too serious. Just kept tapping the nozzle to let a few out at a time.
ACC was quick and easy. Don't think I will go the epoxy route, too messy for me but nice idea.
Rod.

[mmagliaro]

You can buy a whole pound of pure tungsten powder, 325 mesh (which is incredibly fine!) for $85
here: https://www.tungstenheavypowder.com/product/technon-powder-325-mesh/

A pound is a LOT of tungsten.  That's 453 grams.  Realize that when we weight down an engine, we talk about adding
10g, or maybe 20 - 25g in extreme cases.   Even at 25g, that's 18 engines' worth for $85, or about 5 bucks per engine.

I'm just trying to point out that tungsten, while not "cheap" is not really exotically expensive.  You just have to dig around the internet a little for industrial sources, and be willing to buy in larger than hobby quantities.  And still, 1 lb isn't outrageous.  If you weight
your engines and cars often, you'll use it.

[Lemosteam]

@mmagliaro , I can get a ten pound bag of the 0.05" lead balls for $40 so $5.40 (shipped) per pound vs. $85 is a no-brainer for me cost wise.

Also the other thought I want to test (in FUD/FXD only of course) is placing the lead balls in the cavity and inserting my soldering iron into the balls and melting them in place.  I have successfully poured lead into FUD in the past- the material surprisingly won't melt, it just discolors.