Benchwork - L Girder vs Box Frame for a semi perminent modular layout

[learmoia]

Eventually, I plan to build a large layout in the basement, and I have some layout lumber in the garage that needs to move so we can get cars in the garage for the winter..
.. Plus my wife keeps asking me when I'm going to start building a layout..

I want the future layout to be somewhat modular, since the house we moved to has a history of minor water seepage that is 90-95% fixed, so in case we need to do some additional drainage work, I don't want a huge hassle of tearing down a layout for contractors, then have some ease of rebuilding.. I want something I can break down, and move as needed, then reassemble without too much hassle.  (Legs will be adjustable since concrete floor may not be the same if moved and replaced.

So if I use said lumber to build the basic framework for a large loop of what will become modules for a future layout, I'm debating if I go with box frame or L girder.. The lumber came from an L-Girder layout, but I could use it to go either way.

The future layout will be very basic, flat homosote, basic / minimal scenery, modeled after my grandfathers layout that got me started in N Scale.. (In the 1980s, it was state of the art, but in today's terms, imagine an N scale version of an old Lionel layout..  )

Switches will be hand thrown manual Peco, so no switch machines - Layout will be DCC using the usual modern wiring specs, to allow other modelers to run on the layout and ease of use in ops sessions..

Also.. what should I plan for cross member spacing.. (Homosote laminated to plywood.)

Thanks ~Ian

(For what it's worth, the layout that acts as inspiration for what I'm planning to build was homosote on a dirt foundation / crawl space / 'Michigan basement' so there was no bench work.. )  I'll try to scan and post a few pics..   

[ednadolski]

I want something I can break down, and move as needed, then reassemble without too much hassle. 

Might be worth considering Freemo-N standards.  You wouldn't necessarily have to conform to some parts such as track setback, if you would only ever want to assemble the modules in the same configuration.  OTOH full compliance would give the most flexibility.

Ed

[nickelplate759]

I've done both styles, although the L-girder layout was back in the 20th century.   It's a very flexible way of building, doesn't require the ability to make precise cuts and joints, and is very sturdy.  On the downside, it's heavy, and the framework takes a fair amount of vertical space (at least 8", more if you have long spans to support).   Grid framework can be lighter, and shallower (my current layout framework is a grid, between 2" and 4" deep, depending on the span).  It's a lot fussier to construct, and your cuts need to be fairly precise, although not cabinet-maker precise.  It also doesn't adapt easily to free-form layout shapes.

Regards,
George

[Doug G.]

I have always found L-Girder easy to design so it's easy to dismantle and reassemble. And actually, it's lighter than box frames if you don't overdo the lumber needed. You can use 1X4 or 1X3 for the girders and 1x1 for joists in N scale.

Doug

[learmoia]

Benchwork depth isn't going to be a huge issue.. everything will be single level except for a small area where the main line will sneak under a large industry.

Most of the layout will be around the wall with 16-24" width, however, I may do an long peninsula of 3-4' width overall split down the middle with backdrop, and L-Girder would be ideal for that...
Layout height will be 50ish", but I don't need the ability to incorporate into other layouts..

L-Girder seems like overkill, but it's not that much more (maybe less) lumber than box frame..)

~Ian

[Cajonpassfan]

I think that depends on the size and shape of your semi-modular sections. If reasonably sized, I'd use a box system, with end boards butting up to each other, for ease of assembly. My layout has some L girders where I needed to span a longer section (to keep open access to a lower deck) but the bulk of it is good quality 1x3 and 1x4 frames with 1x2 cross pieces that support 1x2 risers. Upper deck sections that are screwed into the perimeter walls use light 1x2 perimeter framing (to minimize deck thickness) and even so are surprisingly strong.
Otto K.

[LIRR]

I used the box system at any town locations, open grid with plywood sub road bed connecting the sections. Mine is a shelf type around the room, I used 2'x4'x3/4" birch plywood. I had it cut at Home Depot - a 15" x 4' and three 3" x 4' strips. This was enough to make a framed, 15" deep section. Adjacent sectioned screwed together for larger town areas. Some sections were mounted 3 or 4 incense away from the wall, the rear being filled in with hidden track on its own support....

[rickb773]

My layout is build using mostly box constructed 18"x6' modules.
They were made using 1x3 lumber with a 5/8" plywood top (no cross-bracing needed).

I used L girder construction on 2 modules that required large grade variances.
They are definitely much heaver (the L girders were 1x4 / 1x3 and the crossmembers 1x3).

The legs were originally 48" (you get 2 from an 8' stick) 2x3s with 1x2 cross bracing.

My previous 18'x19' was all L girder construction and not able to be moved when we changed houses.

If it is going to come apart I recommend the box construction modules.

[soo]

Seeing as I am doing a freemoN based layout..I say go with boxes. And then you could use the L girder system to support the boxes.
You could just stay with the freemoN standards and just use legs per assembly(box).
With a table saw and a miter saw you could build the whole shootin match in a day. I built 8 of my freemoN sections in a day.
I made the section out of 1/2" baltic birch first, with joists running 16" o.c. ( on center). Then I squared up the box by pulling diagonal measurements. The glued and stapled 1/4"plywood to box frame.
Last steps were gluing 2"pink foam to the 1/4" ply..trimming the foam with a laminate trimmer.
Then attach 6" 3/4" birch ply to the ends for mating faces. They could be how ever long you need them to be.
You are probably thinking why 6"?....cause 6" is freemoN standards.
If you were close the Texas..I could have everything done in a day or two..lol

Cya..Wyatt