How to make model railroad scenery base

[RonsTrainsNThings]

I recently made a video on how I make scenery base. I am interested to know what techniques you use. Please comment below. If you like this video, please subscribe to my YouTube channel.

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[davefoxx]

No plaster for me.  It's all 2" foam and lightweight spackling on my layouts.

DFF

[migalyto]

Nice video! I use a similar method with the cardboard weave, and hot glue for attachment. I used to use the dipped paper towel in plaster method, but what a mess! I decided to give the plaster cloth a try on my new trestle/canyon scene, and will never go back to the plaster dipped strips.

[peteski]

Nice video Ron. What you have there is a variation of a scenery technique almost as old as model railroading. Old-school!  Not that there is anything wring with that. 

[mightypurdue22]

+2 on cardboard weave and plaster cloth.  2" Foam base and cardboard above that.  Any contours below roadbed are carved.  Anything above are built from cardboard.  Easy and fast to build, and easy to modify (before plaster cloth).  Safer in my opinion as well (ie. no knives, saws, hot wire cutters and fumes).  Other opinions will vary, but this is a tried and true method for creating very realistic contours on a layout.

Dave

[Ed Kapuscinski]

No plaster for me.  It's all 2" foam and lightweight spackling on my layouts.

DFF

Yup. That's exactly what I do too, although, I think I actually like using 1" foam for building up and down more than 2", because it makes slicing layers easier.

[Dave V]

I use a mix of Sculptamold, lightweight Hydrocal, and earth-colored latex paint.  It's gap-filling, pre-colored, and carve-able.

I've done the lightweight spackle thing and it's nice and all, but I prefer my "goop."

Let's make sure we don't apply moral absolutism to our chosen methodology...what works for some may not be preferred by others.

[wazzou]

Let's make sure we don't apply moral absolutism to our chosen methodology...what works for some may not be preferred by others.

Excellent point and I'd like to say that I appreciate @RonsTrainsNThings posting his videos. 
There certainly are members we welcome here at TRW that are just beginning in the hobby and could benefit from some or all of the videos Ron posts.

[RonsTrainsNThings]

Thanks, Bryan. I certainly try not to give the impression that my way is the only way, and over time you will see me do thing multiple ways. There are cases in which I use foam, and I intend to do a video on that down the road. There are a lot of other great ideas I've seen out there, and I'm sure all have their pros and cons. This is not the only way, just one way--and not the only way--that I do it.

Ron

[p51]

For me, it was all foam (on top of thin plywood), smoothed out with caulk. If the layout ever has to move, it won't shatter like an egg. Pretty light in weight, too.
I never once considered plaster in any form.

[nickelplate759]

No plaster for me.  It's all 2" foam and lightweight spackling on my layouts.

DFF

I just noticed that the tub of lightweight spackle I got says NOT to use it on plastic (or metal) surfaces.   Is there more than one kind (I got a tub from Ace Hardware, their own brand), or should I not worry about it since I'm putting it on blue foam scenery and not my walls?  I'm trying a test on scrap just to see what happens.

[C855B]

It works fine on XPS foam, George. I think the plastic disclaimer applies to hard plastics that have no "tooth" to grab. It certainly won't harm them, it just won't stick.

[nickelplate759]

Thanks.  The stuff goes on like cheap canned frosting!  I don't think I'll taste it though.

[nscalbitz]

Plenty of value here for newbs.
I've been advocating for use of modern age materials- aluminum frames and flat plate to minimise heavy sub-structures.

And lightweight recycling of fillers, packaging, along with foam, good old strong corrugated cardboard box  (hot melt) glued vertically for supports.

And handyman store spackle, multifiller pre-colored dark or deep brown so no white chips appear if damaged (and no brown latex paint FGS!). And topped with gradual layers of natural looking cover, debris and the occasional hand of mans presence- like the ROW and support structures.

dave

[Scottl]

I use a mix of Sculptamold, lightweight Hydrocal, and earth-colored latex paint.  It's gap-filling, pre-colored, and carve-able.

I've done the lightweight spackle thing and it's nice and all, but I prefer my "goop."

+1, this is a very simple and effective technique.  Gives a nice irregular surface and is forgiving- the sculptamold takes a while to dry so you can deal with any minor issues the next day.