Ground throws and Atlas code 80 custom line switch track

[CBQ Fan]

Do any of these fit without modification?  I have a 206S and the pin is to large for the wye switch.  Will the 218S fit, or another model?  I can't use undertable mount in this location.

[Rich_S]

Do any of these fit without modification?  I have a 206S and the pin is to large for the wye switch.  Will the 218S fit, or another model?  I can't use undertable mount in this location.

The 206S requires very little modification. I've used the 206S on my Atlas Customline code 80 turnouts. You have to use a #54 drill bit to slightly enlarge the pre-drilled hole in the turnout. Then trim off the pin you are not using so it does not interfere with the operation of the turnout. Some times you even need to trim the length of the pin slightly, otherwise I've not had any issues.

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[CBQ Fan]

The 206S requires very little modification. I've used the 206S on my Atlas Customline code 80 turnouts. You have to use a #54 drill bit to slightly enlarge the pre-drilled hole in the turnout. Then trim off the pin you are not using so it does not interfere with the operation of the turnout. Some times you even need to trim the length of the pin slightly, otherwise I've not had any issues.

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Thank you Rich.

[nkalanaga]

If you ever run into a turnout that can't be fixed as easily as these, you can always do what I did in the 80s.  I was using the 206S with PC board turnouts, and rather than drill a hole big enough for the pin, I cut the pins off, then drilled a 1/32 inch hole in both the ground throw and turnout throwbars.  A piece of 1/32 brass wire held them together.

[randgust]

I use the caboose throws on all manual siding switches, which are either Atlas C80 or Peco C55.

Most of my industrial track is right on plywood with minimal roadbed, but where there is roadbed, the 'connecting rod' of .030-.035 brass wire so that the ground throw is low and outside the track roadbed area.   Even with the compensating spring, they put a substantial torque to the switch, and I've broken a couple switchpoints with them over the years.   The brass wire with a bit of a bend in it acts as a second spring of sorts.

I've also made a practice of digging a hole for the base to lower them a bit on a plywood subroadbed.   You need to be able to trip them with a fingertip, but no higher.   Lower always looks better.

When you're installing them, I center the points, put temporary plastic shims in to hold them, connect the rods, stand the throw rod vertical, drill .025 holes into the subroadbed and use wire brads for strength.  That insures that everything is centered and it's a strong installation.

[nkalanaga]

For throwing mine I built a "brakeman".  All it was was a piece of wooden dowel, of a comfortable diameter, about 2 inches long.  In one end I put a piece of 1/32 inch brass rod, about 3 inches long, with the tip flattened.  This was for uncoupling cars, especially under overhead wire.  If you don't have wires, 2 inches should be fine.

On the other end I put another piece of 1/32 rod, about an inch long, with the last 1/4 inch bent at a right angle.  This was to hook under the handle on the ground throw, which was easier than trying to lift it with my finger, especially if it was close to scenery, or cars on another track.

[CBQ Fan]

I finally got a moment to use the bits and pin vise on the turnouts. Worked like a charm!  Thanks.