Repairing underside of Kato GS4 Skirting

[RBrodzinsky]

Calling all Kato GS-4 experts! A Kato GS-4 #4449 had a nasty tumble (not mine!), and I was asked to see if I could put Humpty Dumpty back together again. I started the process with a lot of trepidation (and no promise of success), but have amazingly gotten to the point of getting the drive and motor frames back together again, quartering the drivers so that they move smoothly, and getting the entire unit running perfectly (in DC -- but there were also no spacers, so while everything was apart, I kapton taped the motor frame, so now totally DCC friendly).

A couple of detail parts need replacing, and am anxiously awaiting their showing back up in stock at Kato USA's site. But, I have one last nagging issue. Apparently, on the fall, the support structure underneath the pilot floor, where the coupler housing and the front cow-catcher clip into, broke. Both little pieces of plastic are available, but I have had no success getting them into place with enough structural strength to stay there when the clips are inserted. These are, unfortunately, a part of the overall Skirting frame, and not some replaceable part, and Kato does not sell the shell or skirting separately.

Question: Has anyone else had this issue? If so, how did you solve it? I am almost tempted to mount an MTL true-scale coupler with small screw and simply glue the catcher onto the skirting frame

[Mark W]

I just grabbed mine for a closer look.  If I'm understanding you right, you're just gonna have to glue it in now.

I don't see any tabs or anything on the cowcatcher, and it fits quite snug in place without any sort of snap or 'click'.  I'm guessing the fitting alone holds it in place, and when damaged, the tolerance of that fitting just isn't right anymore.

[Viperjim1]

If I remember there is a clip on each side that slides into a notched out area to keep it secure, for the cowcatcher, as far as the coupler I believe the coupler piece that has the copper strip in it to center the coupler also clips in the same way I'll have to check for sure.

[RBrodzinsky]

Yes, the cow catcher slides in tightly, the coupler snaps. I have my GS4 (4453) as example, so know the pristine condition.

I've tried CA as well as Bondic. Both sort of work, but as Mark says, the tolerances are too tight, and the coupler snap's pressure is too much for the CA, with such a small contact area. I think I will go for the true scale coupler, and then use Bondic from the underside. The nice thing with that is it won't damage the parts, and can be removed with relative ease if the frame ever needs to come apart again.

Knowing what this loco suffered, I am amazed that this was the only non repairable damage.

[peteski]

Yes, the cow catcher slides in tightly, the coupler snaps. I have my GS4 (4453) as example, so know the pristine condition.

I've tried CA as well as Bondic. Both sort of work, but as Mark says, the tolerances are too tight, and the coupler snap's pressure is too much for the CA, with such a small contact area. I think I will go for the true scale coupler, and then use Bondic from the underside. The nice thing with that is it won't damage the parts, and can be removed with relative ease if the frame ever needs to come apart again.

You could always try heat-welding the parts with a soldering iron.

[randgust]

Without a photo or a diagram I'm just speculating, but is it possible to drill #80 someplace and insert either a .010 wire or a staple shape and ACC that in for reinforcement?   I've pinned together several broken parts that way.  It works pretty good on Delrin where a normal joint would fail.

[RBrodzinsky]

You could always try heat-welding the parts with a soldering iron.

I thought about it -- but my history with this technique says I will be buying my friend a brand new GS-4... 

[RBrodzinsky]

Without a photo or a diagram I'm just speculating, but is it possible to drill #80 someplace and insert either a .010 wire or a staple shape and ACC that in for reinforcement?   I've pinned together several broken parts that way.  It works pretty good on Delrin where a normal joint would fail.

The broken off frame is 0.035" thick.  And the parts require anchoring in 3 location.  I suppose it is possible....

[peteski]

Rick,
It might be worth to call Kato USA and ask for Kelley Dufford (he does their repairs). Even though Kato does not sell that piece, he might be able to scrounge one from his parts bin.  Or another alternative would be to see if Kato can repair it for you (using their spare parts).  Again, Kelly is the guy to talk to.

[narrowminded]

If Kato could come up with the part, by hook or by crook, that would be the first avenue to persue but if not and if I was sure of the shape I might be able to machine a replacement from delrin, or machine a repair piece.  Would need more information to determine if it's even feasible but I can make some pretty fine cuts with some pretty good tolerances.  If interested in discussing that possibility send me a PM.  

[ryan_wilkerson]

Just found this thread...watching with unusually high interest

[Mark W]

^^Found the guy who thought a GS-4 was an airplane... 

[RBrodzinsky]

No, he just acquired it, then handed it to me in a ziplock