PRR H10 Remotor

[Cajonpassfan]

Jim, that turned out simply stunning.
The freestanding details are superb, even under great magnification...
You've got yourself a winner!
Otto

[Chris333]

Yes, that did turn out very nice!

[superturbine]

Very, very well done!

[mmagliaro]

It's a beauty, sir.   I really like the color.   The cab curtains did the trick on hiding the motor.
Nobody will every notice it now.

REALLY nice model there.  Congratulations!

[chicken45]

Outstanding. I almost prefer the unpainted shots because it really highlights all the details.

[Dave V]

Excellent!

[nscaleSPF2]

Thanks for the kind words, all.

I sprayed the tender and boiler shells with Floquil weathered black, and hand painted the trucks and running gear with grimy black.

[strummer]

I think it looks fabulous, in spite of the fact I prefer the older, pre-war (?) style...

Very nice indeed.

Mark in Oregon

[nscaleSPF2]

Some very short videos.  The first is taken at 25 scale mph.  Please excuse the jerkiness of the camera.

This one was taken at DCC step number 1 of 128; this is equivalent to a scale 0.25 mph.  I think that the engine runs very smoothly, given that it has no flywheel.

Finally, one last one.

Enjoy.

[victor miranda]

I am not supposed to watch the videos from work.

I am surprised no one has commented.

I like it.

victor

[mmagliaro]

Awesome!  That's how steam should run.
The Mashima is doing a fine job there!

[strummer]

+1

Mark in Oregon

[glakedylan]

super...really excellent work
and a very fine shell to work with
kudos to you both,
nscaleSPF2 and superturbine
sincerely--
Gary

[peteski]

Excellent work Jim!  The smooth very slow speed performance of your loco is exactly what I would have expected to see on Carl's Kato GS-4 with a coreless motor and a gearhead.

[nscaleSPF2]

Thanks for all of the positive comments!  I do appreciate them.

This was a big project for me.  I'm glad that it turned out well.

I began this thread to explain how to make a PRR H10 out of a Bachmann 2-8-0, for anyone who may want to go down the same path.  For those people, here a few suggestions:

1.  Make sure that you have a really good running chassis before you begin.  This will avoid the repairs that I had to make.

2. Make sure that all of the drivers contact the track at the same time.  When you take the bottom plate off, mark the bottoms of the axle bearing blocks.  You want to get them back in the same orientation.  I know, the holes for the axles should be in the exact center of the blocks, but they are not.

3.  At some point, you will have to completely disassemble the chassis.  Work slowly and carefully.  Do not force anything.  Take pictures for yourself, to help you remember how to put everything back together.  With this chassis, it is almost impossible to get the drivers out of quarter, so don't worry about that.

4.  The Mashima motor works very well.  There probably are others that will also work.   There are sources to purchase the Mashima, earlier in this thread.  There may also be a better way to mount the motor, although the way I chose does work.

5.  Talk nice to Jason Smith (superturbine) and he may make you very nice boiler and tender shells.

Good Luck