Using An Air Eraser: Tips and Suggestions

[ai5629]

Hello.  I bought a Paasche Air Eraser last fall, but never had a chance to use it before it got cold.  Now that the weather is getting warmer, I would like to give it a try (I have to use it outside, no garage).  I plan on using it to remove lettering from the side of freight cars.  I have Aluminum Oxide for use as a cutting material.  I was hoping that those who have used one successfully could share their experiences and offer suggestions.  There was the article in N Scale Railroading (May/Jun 2014), but I cannot locate my copy of it anywhere.  (I have every issue from Nov/Dec 2005 to May/Jun 2015, but I cannot locate that one.  I most likely put it somewhere I would remember, but that did not occur.)  Thank you in advance for sharing your thoughts.

Jeff

[davefoxx]

I have no experience with an air eraser, but wouldn't aluminum oxide be too aggressive to remove just lettering without damaging the paint, or worse, the model?

DFF

[ai5629]

Aluminum oxide is what came with it.  I thought it was better than baking soda since it does not absorb moisture.  I do not know if it would be too abrasive.  Has anyone used Al oxide?  Thanks.

[C855B]

I'm in a similar situation - bought the air eraser last fall, but no chance to use it yet since there are many higher-priority projects in the queue. However, when I ordered the tool I also ordered the finest grit AlOx, the Paasche "SSO". The tool came with their medium abrasive. Anyway...

My objective is cleaning up oxidation and surface burnish to prep brass models for painting, so I want the AlOx. That said, I know just enough about abrasives to have the gut reaction that AlOx would be way too aggressive for plastics. Either first test on a model you are willing to throw away, or start with baking soda. The only issue with baking soda absorbing moisture is long-term storage, so if you start with a fresh box you should be fine. Or in this case, extra-fine.

[peteski]

Aluminum oxide is what came with it.  I thought it was better than baking soda since it does not absorb moisture.  I do not know if it would be too abrasive.  Has anyone used Al oxide?  Thanks.

I have used Al oxide (in a Badger version of this tool) but I never used to just strip the lettering - only to strip paint and also to give the slippery handrail plastic some "tooth" for painting.  I imagine you would have to be very careful to just strip the lettering. Plus, the surface will look different from the surrounding paint (it might not blend easily, even Dullcoated afterwards).

[ai5629]

Thank you the comments so far.  Does anyone have a recommended air pressure to start at?  As far as blending in what I erase goes, I was going to tape off the area I want to remove.  Specifically, I want to re number a couple ESM Conrail X58 boxcars.  I only need to remove the lettering on the left side of the car, so I will tape off everything except those panels.  I am hoping that will blend better when it is renumbered and refinished (since the entire panel will be "erased").  If this does not work, then into the stripper they will go.  I would like to avoid a complete decal job if possible.  I have so many projects, I will never get done if they are all complete decal jobs!  Thank you.

Jeff

[peteski]

Thank you the comments so far.  Does anyone have a recommended air pressure to start at?  As far as blending in what I erase goes, I was going to tape off the area I want to remove.  Specifically, I want to re number a couple ESM Conrail X58 boxcars.  I only need to remove the letting on the left side of the car, so I will tape off everything except those panels.  I am hoping that will blend better when it is renumbered and refinished (since the entire panel will be "erased").  If this does not work, then into the stripper they will go.  I would like to avoid a complete decal job if possible.  I have so many projects, I will never get done if they are all complete decal jobs!  Thank you.

Jeff

Jeff, why not just match the paint as close as you can and simply repaint the panel and re-decal.  Sounds like much less hassle and mess that doing the whole sandblasting thing.

[ai5629]

I have considered repainting the panels with the road number on them, now that you mentioned it.  I do have another project, however, that I will need to do some letter removal.  Specifically, I  renumbered 20 BLMA Conrail gondolas, and I am not happy with the custom decals I had made for the road numbers.  I am trying to convince myself to blast the decals off and redo them.  This would involve removing a layer of dull coat, the decals and a layer of gloss coat.  All the while, not screwing up the base paint layer.  I will tape off all areas except panels 2 to 4.  Thanks again for the comments.

Jeff

[Brian M]

I don't have any personal experience with this, but I know someone that (if my memory is correct), used flour to remove lettering from models.  I don't know what pressure he used, though.  You'd probably want to at least wear a dust mask while doing this, even outside.

-Brian.

[71jeep]

corn starch works very well too just need to have a very dry air supply!

[sizemore]

There was an article in NSR that described in detail the different methods for fading and removing lettering. Quite interesting! IIRC the author used corn starch and baking soda for different applications. If I was only removing lettering it would go air eraser. Even the lightest coat of paint still adds a layer.

The S.

[Chris333]

I used one yesterday, but to blast brass parts.