I (almost) give up!

[eja]

A few months ago, I took the plunge into the DCC world and I am seriously wondering if I made a mistake.

Start small, I thought. NCE system and three Digitrax decoders. One for my Kato P42 and the others for some of my Atlas 4 axle locos. 

The Kato loco runs like a Swiss watch, but I feel like I have ruined three Atlas locos (B23-7, GP-40 and GP38). After installing the decoders, they no longer run smoothly and sound like coffee grinders.  Yes, I have done the solder trick to insure the undersized Digitrax decoders fit snugly and I done everything I can think of to make sure everything is aligned properly.

Has anyone else had the same frustration ? Any suggestions ?

I really enjoy the features that the DCC system provides, but am very frustrated by the fact that previously fine (DC) running locos now run like a piece of junk.

eja

[OldEastRR]

Atlas will be selling locos with decoders already in them, if that helps your decision.

[reinhardtjh]

If you split the frames to install the decoders, then check the alignment of the gears, worms, etc.  That's the only thing that can be causing a "coffee grinder" sound.  Make sure the bearing blocks are in the right way.  They may look square but they're not (on most models at least).  Make sure you got the trucks put back on the right end.  Some have slight offsets so they work better on the front or the rear depending on the alignment.

Ron and the other usual drive train gurus will probably have better suggestions.

[C855B]

Agreed. I have many smoothly-running Atlas locos previously subjected to my all-thumbs decoder installations. The key is paying attention to bearing block orientation. I don't have any pictures handy to illustrate this, but I'm sure that Ron does.

Page for u18b... page for u18b... please pick up a white courtesy telephone! 

[davefoxx]

Until Ron chimes in, here's his tutorial: http://u18b.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Bearingblock.pdf.

It works, and your locomotives (Atlas B23-7, GP40, and GP38) are candidates.

Another tip is to not overtighten the two screws that hold the frame halves together.  That can cause binding of the driveline, too.  But, I agree with the others that the bearing blocks are the first place to look, and if one or more is turned ninety degrees, that locomotive is likely going to howl.

Hope this helps,
DFF

[u18b]

The guys are correct.

You need to Beardenize them.

PM sent.

[eja]

Thank you very much,  Ron  .. PM reply sent.

[eja]

Make sure the bearing blocks are in the right way.  They may look square but they're not (on most models at least).  Make sure you got the trucks put back on the right end. 

Ron and the other usual drive train gurus will probably have better suggestions.

I do not intend to be argumentative by any means, but I put a very good micrometer on the blocks and all 4 from one loco were within .0005 mm  of being square.  That sound squre to me.

Now about the trucks  .. yep,  I did put one set back on differently than they were originally installed.


All help and comments appreciated!

Just ordered another decoder for a Kato loco, however.


Thanks all...

ed

[peteski]

Whatever the problem is, I highly doubt it is the decoder. It is most likely mechanical in nature.  Nothing to do with DCC in particular.

In my experience Kato models are made to higher standards/tighter parts tolerances. Other brands are not quite as well made.  That is why there can be problems after reassembly.    There is some good troubleshooting advice given in this thread - I would say disassemble and reassemble the model again.

I would be curious how they will run if you remove the decoder and install the original light board.  But make sure to reassemble them exactly the same way as when they sounded like coffee grinders.