Gold Metal Models (GMM) question

[SkipGear]

They are not that hard. I didn't wrap and I didn't solder.

Install all the stanchions first. Bend handrail to match. Thin CA handrail to stanchions.



This loco has hit the floor and all it needed was on stanchion re-glued.

[arbomambo]

They are not that hard. I didn't wrap and I didn't solder.

Install all the stanchions first. Bend handrail to match. Thin CA handrail to stanchions.



This loco has hit the floor and all it needed was on stanchion re-glued.

this is a beautiful effect!
~Bruce

[eja]

They are not that hard. I didn't wrap and I didn't solder.

Install all the stanchions first. Bend handrail to match. Thin CA handrail to stanchions.

Well, I had almost given up this idea, but this may change my mind. 

Am I correct in guessing that since you "didn't wrap or solder", you trimmed the wrapping material from the stanchions?    How did you do that ?


eja

[SkipGear]

Just a good set of sprue cutters. I trimmed them mostly before installing the handrail. Went back with a dremel afterwards and finished them a bit. It takes a steady hand and very quick hits to do it with a dremel though. The heat from cutting will break the CA bond so you can't hang out too long in one place.

Get some very good jewlers pliers, including a couple smooth jaw flat options, some ring pliers, flush cutters and wire cutters before you start.

[craigolio1]

In photos, it's handrails and couplers in my opinion that make our models look odd.  Change those to finer scale pieces and it becomes a REALLY good looking model.  The next level you could say.  All of my models will have this done eventually.

Oh and I agree the Randy.  Clean clean clean.

Craig

[randgust]

I've got a fair-sized fleet (30 units on the layout) and I've 'finally' got it to the point where they all have wire handrails.  No plastic survivors.

It's actually worth it, no matter how you get there.   The only reason I never used the GMM stanchions was because I couldn't figure out a way to get the rails and stanchions straight.   Like I said, on the ATSF scheme, the yellow rail positioned against the yellow stripe and side sill is just a killer, the rails are either straight or it looks awful.   This is my Intermountain (shell) SD45-2, on a Kato SD40-2 mech, repainted, and all wire handrails.  This is the 'longest' handrail set I've done at least:

[craigolio1]

That looks awesome Randy. Laser straight.

Craig

[JanesCustomTrain]

Very nice Randy, what did you do to the Kato drive that the shell fits ?

Jane

[ednadolski]

In photos, it's handrails and couplers in my opinion that make our models look odd.  Change those to finer scale pieces and it becomes a REALLY good looking model.  The next level you could say.  All of my models will have this done eventually.

I completely agree.  Some folks here may have seen these pics previously, but I think it helps bring out the point in the context of this discussion:






The thread on this one is here: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=11602.msg92300#msg92300


(I am planning to upgrade this one to the Bowser Z scale couplers.)


Ed

[Scottl]

I could not agree more, fine scale handrails take the models to the next level.

I installed the front etched railing and stanchions- a one piece deal- on this Kaslo kit. 



Gary was working on some one piece side rails/stanchions.  Hopefully that project might re-emerge.

[craigolio1]

Awesome models guys!