125' Harbor Cruise (Party Ship!) Now Available

[pnolan48]

Sorry, I replied over on the Z scale forum without realizing that it was here also. My answer:

I'd recommend painting the sides first. I'm not sure which may turn yellowish first, the paint or the styrene. I use Krylon white primer, then Krylon white flat. Styrene may turn a bit yellow under harsh sunlight, but then so may paint. I've got unpainted styrene boats that are almost 20 years old, and they are still white, but have not been exposed to direct sunlight. I've also got some white boxcars from various manufacturers that have turned yellowish over the years. BTW, even the prototype Port Welcome looks a little yellowish in some photos.

As I understand it, solvent-based white paint will eventually turn yellowish, and acrylics do not. But spraying acrylic whites can be a little difficult.

Painted or not, I do overspray my ships with flat acrylic clear from Krylon. That does slightly haze the acetate, which is acceptable to me, and seems to delay any yellowing..

Please let me know if you have any problems with the kit. I may not have included enough railing, and may have sent the wrong skiff. Unfortunately, that is what sometimes happens when I am working in two scales (N & Z). Any make-ups will be sent free of charge. And, if anyone messes up a part, just let me know and I'll send a replacement either free or for a nominal charge.

[Roger Holmes]

Pete-- Thanks for your response.  I posted on the Z forum first by accident

I will continue to ask construction questions on the forum as I go along for the benefit of all the RW members who bought the kit.

I am still torn about painting the exterior since it seems that there will be pieces glued to the sides which would occur after painting.  Specifically there are a number a large U shaped pieces that look like they go on the sides and stern but only after the sides are glued in place.  Am I on the right track about those pieces?

I solved one puzzlement when I figured out that the rear bulkheads that came in individual zipper bags had been reversed.  The Main Rear Bulkhead was in the bag labeled 01 Rear Bulkhead.  Once I figured that out progress continued.  So far I have laid up the keel, added the first deck and have installed the support and 01 rear bulkhead in anticipation of adding the main deck next.

Question:  Are the portholes scribed on the sides meant to have their centers popped out like the rectangular windows or are they just meant to be painted black where the "glass" would go.  BTW your tip on removing the rectangular window chads worked well for a number that didn't want to pop out easily.

Having great fun so far!

[pnolan48]

Morning, Roger!

Painting ships is ever fun. Yes, the rub strips go on after the hull has been glued up, so they will conform to the curves. If you paint beforehand, then you will have to scrape a line of paint off for the strips to adhere. An alternative is to use Krystal Klear instead of acetate for the windows. Then you can put the windows in last.

The very bottom portholes can be left open or backed with a scrap of plastic painted black. The portholes on the first deck and upward should be glassed.

[pnolan48]

Boy, my dog woke me up really early this morning, so I was foggier than the weather when I responded. Let me answer more clearly. Yes, the portholes are meant to be popped out. The very bottom four are larger than the others, and appear to be vents rather than portholes, but I really can't tell. The next ones up, near the rear, are portholes for the heads.

I'm sorry I mixed up the bags. I should probably go to a "tagged" layout, ala the laser cut kits, so that everything stays on the sheet, and I can include a printed sheet showing what is what. What is happening is that every sheet of styrene seems to cut a little differently. I get the depth just right on one kit; then the next is too shallow, and the next too deep. It's ideopathic, so I don't know what's causing the variations aside from variations in the styrene, and the fact that the bigger cutter, at $750, can't be considered a precise machine. It could be that the cutting mat just accumulates and sheds dirt between cuts. I'm sort of pioneering this use of digital cutters for this shipbuilding purpose. I am learning, and trying to share what I've learned here.

Pete

[Roger Holmes]

Thanks, Pete.  I figured out from your first reply that the porthole centers were to be popped out. They came out easily.

I found one sheet of acetate in the kit box.  If I run out is this just Evergreen sheet?  If so, I have a stock on hand.

Tonight's question:  what adhesive do you recommend for attaching the clear acetate to the styrene sides?

[pnolan48]

Yes, it's just standard .005" acetate. I use my own mixture of liquid glue, which is 80% MEK and 20% Tuoluene, with a small brush to quickly apply the glue to a few window frames at a time. This is a one-time maneuver--i.e., you miss, and you're going to have some glue on the windows. That doesn't bother me too much, as I usually apply a spray of dull coat when I'm done with a model, and that spray usually fogs windows up enough to cover my mistakes.

I've also used Krystal Klear with good success, and others have used white glue. I think the idea is to apply the glue very sparingly. I usually work from one end. I get one end glued down by springing the acetate into a 90 degree curve, holding on to the other end. Then I gradually lay down the acetate, gluing as I go along.

[Roger Holmes]

The fun continues!  Yes, it really is fun.

Here's today's question for Pete:  The on-line instructions mention front stairs coming down on either side of the pilot house.  So far I don't see anything in the kit that looks like front stairs.

Meanwhile, here are a bunch of construction photos:

[pnolan48]

The stairway strip is photo etched brass and should be with the railings in the long, thin pack braced with masonite. It is flat, the railings need to be bent up, then the stairs tweezered into position. Let me know if they are missing and I'll send you another strip.

[Roger Holmes]

I had only looked in one end of the railing pack and didn't see the stairs.  My bad
BTW the stairs are gorgeous!

Currently waiting for the glue to dry on the bow of the second side.  Then I'll proceed to glue it the rest of the way around.

So far I have used Testor's liquid cement on everything including to affix the clear acetate to the walls.  Your tip to temporarily curve the pilot house wall before affixing the clear glazing worked great.  I need to re-glue a few spots on the hull glazing where it has flexed.  Luckily all of the trouble spots are still accessible.

[Roger Holmes]

OK, hopefully my many question to Pete continue to help the other RW members who bought the kit.  I know that Pete's answers are helping me greatly.

There are four.020 U-shaped pieces that are about 2 inches  wide by 4 inches long that have angled ends at the top of the U.  There are two straight pieces that have a matching angle.  These seem to match the contour of the stern of the top deck.  What are these, Pete?  There can be four layers of the U but only one layer of the straight pieces.  Are they involved in attaching the top deck to the sides?

Thanks, as always.

[pnolan48]

The U-shaped pieces are laminated to form the bench seating all around the rear of the top deck. I believe the two other pieces are the inner bow reinforcements. These are glued to the top inner edge of the bow to correct any irregularities in the curve. If there are no irregularities, then they are not needed, although they do make the top rail ticker in section. These irregularities sometimes occur when things are just a tiny bit off, as the styrene is being bent in two directions.

[Roger Holmes]

Excellent, thanks.  I'm planning some bench seating in the bow and at the stern since this ship reminds me of the boats that ply the Chicago River doing architectural tours and although your ship is one deck taller it still evokes the Chicago boats.

[pnolan48]

Remember there's the anchor winch up front.

[Roger Holmes]

Not as much time for boat building this week.  I got the second side glued on and then it was time for the front and rear bulkheads.  There is so much inward force from the sides that the bulkheads bent since they are .020 sheet styrene.  The large open door in the front bulkhead was particularly a weak point.  My solution was to reinforce the back with Evergreen strip styrene which does not show at all from the front.  This has the added benefit of creating a larger gluing surface to attach to the decks below and above.



Here's a photo with the upper deck test fit into place.  The pilot house and funnel are not yet attached but it is exciting to see them there since this is really starting to take shape.  Still having a ball building Pete's fine kit.



Today's question:  I would really like to leave the bow open for seating but Pete points out that that is where the anchor winch casting goes.  Would it be within the realm of plausibility that the anchor winch could be below the top deck?  If so, there are many other locations on the layout where the winch casting could be used.

[pnolan48]

Looking great, Roger!

The winch could go below decks, i.e., hidden, leaving the bow clear. I have seen that on the Alaska tour boats, which are just about the same size. I'm not sure where they are, but the bow is certainly clear. Also, they are not always powered winches, unless deckhand power counts. The docking winches for the much larger Martha's Vineyard auto ferries are hand powered. Those are the winches on the docking bridge (shore) that tie the ferry to the docking bridge at the correct level.



There is a narrow walkway in front of the pilot house, btw. And I've been known to trim the bulkheads, although there really isn't much material at the ends. I like your solution better than mine.