Paint remover conspiracy?

[ryourstone]

Is this stuff being removed from production or something... ELO seems to now be non-existent. I just ordered some Chameleon because it seems to be the only thing somewhat available (checked LHS and Walthers doesn't even have it any more). Hopefully it works as good as ELO.

[hminky]

Chameleon is really great. Lots better than ELO which I believe has been discontinued .

Harold

[bradb]

I used to use ELO but I had an experience where a Kato NW2 shell kinda came apart on me while I was cleaning it.  I'm not 100% sure it was the ELO (I'm often ham-fisted) but it made me a little more cautious.

So I've been using 91% alcohol with great success, though I do think it takes a bit longer (I usually let my stuff soak overnight).

Might be easier to find and cheaper too.

Brad.

[ryourstone]

I've had Kato shells fracture with ELO too, something different about the plastic they use. But no luck with the alcohol on the shell I'm trying (Atlas VO1000).

Good to hear the Chameleon is even better. Klein's had it in stock, and I've been meaning to order a couple other things anyway.

[DKS]

I've had Kato shells fracture with ELO too, something different about the plastic they use.

Same here. Was stripping a Kato F and the whole nose just kind of crumbled.

Haven't done any stripping since then, but when I get back to it, I'll probably try alcohol as that seems to be doing well fot others, plus it's easy to get.

[sparky]

But no luck with the alcohol on the shell I'm trying (Atlas VO1000).

Rich- I hope this isn't a stupid question, but are you sure you're using 91% or higher alcohol?  The 70% won't work.  Usually the 91% alcohol will completely remove the paint from an Atlas shell in a half hour or so, with some occasional light scrubbing.

[ryourstone]

Yes it's the 91% - I put in back in and let it sit all day. The paint is beginning to soften, so maybe I was just being impatient I've used this before and the paint came off after an hour or so - I think newer stuff is using a tougher paint formula or something?

At least while I was waiting I cut up and respiced a Bmann 2-8-0 tender for my CNJ I4s that's only been in the making for the last 4 years now... all I need is to detail the tender, add handrails and paint and it's finally done.

[Chris333]

I cut up and respiced a Bmann 2-8-0 tender for my CNJ I4s that's only been in the making for the last 4 years now...

About time 

[TrainCat2]

Alcohol does absorb moisture over time and loses it's effectiveness. Tou may want to try a new bottle for a $1 investment.

[Sokramiketes]

I think newer stuff is using a tougher paint formula or something?

VO1000's were from Ajin, and based on reports of stripping other Ajin projects (AZL locos) they must be using some killer paint.  The stuff from the regular Atlas factory still strips well with alky.

[shamoo737]

On the AZL brass, they must use two part epoxy. Its the kind of paint they use on cars. Once dry, its almost impossible to remove. It has been suggested that the only way to get rid of it is to sand blast it.

[ryourstone]

After 3 days of soaking and scrubbing I got about 90% of the paint off... the rest doesn't want to budge. But my bottle of Chameleon shipped today so hopefully that does it.

[wcfn100]

I've used pine-sol on anything metal with good results.  The trick is not to scrub under running water, it'll just make everything gooey.  I scrub in a a little tupperware bowl filled with alchohol.


Jason

[asciibaron]

still unable to remove the Atlas pad printing - the paint came off easily but the lettering is still there.

-Steve