Has anyone else had problems with crappy Microscale decals?

[GonzoCRFan]

Tonight I started working on a CR GP38-2 that I finished painting Sunday...but when I applied the large CR quality logos, they dried extremely wrinkly and no amount of setting solution helped alleviate the problem; nor did pressing the decal with a dry tissue before Micro-Sol-ing, as they suggest. Has anyone else been having problems with Microscale's decals lately, or did I just get a bad set? I've never had this problem with Microscale sets before, so I'm hoping it's just the latter...

[Nato]

 Micro Scale quality really varies , I have some almost 30 year old ones that are still good after proper storage,and others same age that are dried out (could use solution to re energize them) that fall apart on usuage. I bought some recient white stripes and numbers to use on an RC boat ,Russian Missel Cruiser, found some worked others either fell apart or refuesed to set like you have described.                Of course then there was Northeast  now long out of business,they offered a neat variety of road names, but I usually had to order double quanities because much of what came new from them simply fell apart in the water, or on the loco or car.                                                                                               Nate Goodman (Nato). Salt Lake, Utah.

[up1950s]

Yes , I have . Those UP red stripes are a 50 50 chance that they will break into 10 pieces per inch when you slide them off .

[GonzoCRFan]

I had similar problems with their stripes when painting a BNSF unit a while back. I do tend to find that my older sets seem to work very well. It's only the ones in the newer packaging that seem crappy.

[up1950s]

I had similar problems with their stripes when painting a BNSF unit a while back. I do tend to find that my older sets seem to work very well. It's only the ones in the newer packaging that seem crappy.

Yes , I agree .

[engineshop]

I had the same problem with the lionhead on a MRL sheet and with a set of new BNSF logos. The replacment BNSF sheet was okay. I assumed it was the glue on the decal sheet that made the problem.

[ai5629]

Since I have started decalling cars again, I had one Conrail logo that would not set properly.  I ended up having to strip the car because the Micro Sol I kept putting on the decal ate the Scalecoat II paint off.  I nicked the paint when I was positioning the decal, and the Micro Sol would soften the paint when I applied it to set the decal.  (When it dried, the paint was solid.)  I tried to remove the logo by moistening it and rubbing it off, and I removed a large chunk of paint.  I had both sides completely done, and I had to toss it in the stripper.  That really pissed me off.  Five hours of work down the drain.  If you have a problem with decals falling apart, I would suggest gloss coating the sheets.  This thickens them up a little, but they don't fall apart.  This is a good idea with old decals. 

Jeff

[bsoplinger]

I routinely keep a bottle of liquid decal film solution right next to where I do my decals. I just coat the entire decal sheet if the first piece I try to work with shows any sign of trouble. Since I started doing that I've never had problems with a decal job. I use the microscale brand but badger makes one and a few others and I've found they all pretty much work the same.

[mmyers]

One of the guys in the club had trouble with some CSX decals. The top coat of gold color ran when he applied setting solution. He said there was a yellow color underneath that didn't run, but the gold color on top ran. My guess is there's a basecoat, then a top coat. Something is wrong with the top coat. These were fresh decals, btw.

[engineshop]

One of the guys in the club had trouble with some CSX decals. The top coat of gold color ran when he applied setting solution. He said there was a yellow color underneath that didn't run, but the gold color on top ran. My guess is there's a basecoat, then a top coat. Something is wrong with the top coat. These were fresh decals, btw.

That was the problem I had with the BNSF. Everything looked good until I used Micro Sol.

[k greenhorn]

Yes,I have had trouble with MS decals. Much of this was my fault. Poor storage practices and old decals, decals will dry out.
However,I prefer Solvaset snuggle down to The Microscale product.
Keng. :'(

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Yeah those Manufactuer's decals I got after searching ran a bit... Just the gold. Since the gold is under the finish film, I'm not sure if I can fix them. I have had some problems with Microscale, but no where near the issues that I have had with Northeast Decals. Strange thing is Northeast was printed by SMP industries, the same company that did Concord Car Shops. Now those decals rocked!

I now test all decal sheets using a scrap decal before using the ones I want. If they crumble, I airbrush liquid decal finm on them and mark a blank part with a silver Sharpie to indicate special care when decaling.

[jmlaboda]

And people wonder why I pitch dry transfer lettering when I can...