Kato Equivalent for Rohukan

[mkearns]

I currently power my micro N scale DC layout with a Rohukan RC02 controller. To that I have attached a Rohukan C004 Accessory Switch that runs a Rohukan A016 terminal strip with some RailDig LEDs plugged into it.

I don’t know much about track electronics, so I like the plug and play nature of this setup. I also like that track and lights are run from one wall wart, or even batteries. But I’m less than thrilled with the speed control of the Rohukan RC02. It’s like I have to choose between barely moving or warp speed with no in between. The controller was sent back for evaluation and works fine, so maybe it just doesn’t like my particular selection of locomotives.PWM issue or something. 

So I’m thinking about moving toward a Kato Smart Controller. Initial testing exhibits none of the aforementioned speed issues. And I would gain Bluetooth control over the track, which might even let me stash the controller under the micro layout after I power it on.

The trouble is - I’m not sure which of Katos accessory attachments will let me run the LEDS? Maybe it’s the 24-829 Accessory Adapter? Or the 24-850 power switch?

Honestly, I don’t know much about LEDS. I read somewhere LEDS take DC power, so maybe there isn’t any conversion going on in the Rohukan pieces I’m current using. I think the Raildig LEDS have resistors built in. If I make the swap to Kato I would hate to blow up my LEDS.

Appreciate any knowledge or insights here.

[dem34]

I currently power my micro N scale DC layout with a Rohukan RC02 controller. To that I have attached a Rohukan C004 Accessory Switch that runs a Rohukan A016 terminal strip with some RailDig LEDs plugged into it.

I don’t know much about track electronics, so I like the plug and play nature of this setup. I also like that track and lights are run from one wall wart, or even batteries. But I’m less than thrilled with the speed control of the Rohukan RC02. It’s like I have to choose between barely moving or warp speed with no in between. The controller was sent back for evaluation and works fine, so maybe it just doesn’t like my particular selection of locomotives.PWM issue or something. 

So I’m thinking about moving toward a Kato Smart Controller. Initial testing exhibits none of the aforementioned speed issues. And I would gain Bluetooth control over the track, which might even let me stash the controller under the micro layout after I power it on.

The trouble is - I’m not sure which of Katos accessory attachments will let me run the LEDS? Maybe it’s the 24-829 Accessory Adapter? Or the 24-850 power switch?


Honestly, I don’t know much about LEDS. I read somewhere LEDS take DC power, so maybe there isn’t any conversion going on in the Rohukan pieces I’m current using. I think the Raildig LEDS have resistors built in. If I make the swap to Kato I would hate to blow up my LEDS.

Appreciate any knowledge or insights here.

Before you get too crazy, no, most LEDs will not run on track power out of the box. You will need a 1K ohm resistor on the Anode + side of the LED for 12v DC. Just make certain of that before plugging anything in. But past that caveat.

Copper is copper. err. Or Aluminum in this case.
If its all 2 Conductor 12v DC then all you need for similar plug and play level ease is a multimeter to check polarity if your uncertain. A couple Wagos. And some snips. And the world is your oyster.
I say its a lot easier overall to just keep accessories separate from personal experience.

[brill27mcb]

What brand/model motive power are you trying to run with it?

Rich K.

[peteski]

Before you get too crazy, no, most LEDs will not run on track power out of the box. You will need a 1K ohm resistor on the Anode + side of the LED for 12v DC. Just make certain of that before plugging anything in. But past that caveat.

That is not accurate. In series connected circuit (in this example an LED and a resistor), the resistor can be placed on either positive or negative side of the LED.  You can make a rule for yourself  to always place it on the positive side, but it is irrelevant electrically.

LEDs will also light up under AC voltage, but they will flicker at the frequency of the AC voltage. Too fast for human eye to see the flicker, but taking a video with a digital camera can sometimes show the flicker.  Better stick with using DC for LEDs.

Also, model railroading is a multi-faceted hobby.  Acquiring even very basic basic electronics and electrical knowledge makes the hobby much more enjoyable than just looking at some basic circuit and scratching our heads. The forum's members will answer questions, and there is also quite a bit of info out there in the Interwebs.

[mkearns]

Rich - the Rohukan RC02 doesn’t play nice with a number of my locomotives. Kato Pocketline Steamer, Lifelike SW9, BLI SW7, Bachmann 0-6-0, new Atlas GP7, old Atlas GP40. DC or DCC doesn’t seem to matter. They either barely creep along or turn the dial up another millimeter and they just fly. I have like zero control for moderate speeds. I returned the controller and the dealer tested it and said it was in spec. I really liked the simplicity of the controller on paper but real world something weird is going on. So I started looking at other options. But the mini layout is already wired to work with the Rohukan components, so I’m trying to see if there is an equivalent option with Kato. Particularly with snapping something onto the DC warts on the side of the Kato Smart Controller that will drive my LEDS safely. Aside from a couple videos, there’s not much documentation on what might be going on with the Rohukan C004 switch and the A016 terminal to make the accessory power LED safe.

There’s also not a lot of documentation on the Kato accessories. I guess all of this is a long winded way of asking - does anyone know what the Kato Accessory Adapter does? It looks like I could plug my LED terminal strip into it. But I don’t want to blow anything up.