SP 6000 project & Golden State

[peteski]

None of the silver markers (Sharpie, PILOT, Molotow and few others) I have used provide finish durable enough not to be rubbed off after some handling. But if you're careful and don't handle the model near the handrails, that will work. I still say a stainless steel wire replacement  handrails would be my preferred way to deal with this.  After all, you have the original handrails as a template, and holes are already drilled in the shell.  Why mess around with paint?  That's the peteski's logic.

[nickelplate759]

Number boards are ready to install

[nickelplate759]

Need some suggestions for technique!

The rear side windows go in from the outside, with just a small lip in the opening (top and bottom) to hold it in place.  It's not a press-fit - it will need some kind of adhesive.

I can place the window in the hole, but am not sure what adhesive to use nor how to safely apply it   I usually use Testors  ModelMaster Clear Parts cement (I believe it's akin to canopy glue) for other "glass" on models, and already used it for the number boards and other windows.   I'm not sure how neatly apply it and still get the little window neatly into place. 

Here's a photo showing the opening.  The window is just a square of thin clear plastic.  It goes in from the outside.  You can see the small lip on the frame that will hold it in place (there's one at the bottom of the frame as well).




In a related problem, the E7A has the window inserts, but neither of my two E7Bs came with that part.  I'm going to call BLI tomorrow and hope they have some spares, else I'll have to make them.

[peteski]

I think the first thing I would do to is to paint the inside of the window opening flat black (to hide the thickness of the shell).  Then maybe using a toothpick dipped in the adhesive as an applicator, and coat the inside of the window opening with a thin layer of the glue.  Then I would install the "glass".

Make a small handle for the glass.  You could stick a tip of a toothpick in some liquid candle wax.  Wax is slightly sticky so you will be able use the toothpick to pick up the glass and place it in the opening. Then lift the toothpick and the glass should stay in the opening.

I'm curious about what you used for the silver paint.  It seems to have a texture to it.

[nickelplate759]

I think the first thing I would do to is to paint the inside of the window opening flat black (to hide the thickness of the shell).  Then maybe using a toothpick dipped in the adhesive as an applicator, and coat the inside of the window opening with a thin layer of the glue.  Then I would install the "glass".

Make a small handle for the glass.  You could stick a tip of a toothpick in some liquid candle wax.  Wax is slightly sticky so you will be able use the toothpick to pick up the glass and place it in the opening. Then lift the toothpick and the glass should stay in the opening.

I'm curious about what you used for the silver paint.  It seems to have a texture to it.

I like the handle idea - thanks!

The silver paint is Tru-Color silver.   It's actually quite smooth - the apparent texture comes from the metallic particles in the paint I think, maybe enhanced by the Tamiya semi-gloss overspray.      It looks much smoother when not magnified like crazy.
Even the silver Microscale decals I used under the roadname looks to have some texture in this picture.

[nickelplate759]

I just realized that the picture showing the missing rear window is also really blown up - some of that apparent texture is likely jpg artifacts.

[haasmarc]

Make a small handle for the glass.  You could stick a tip of a toothpick in some liquid candle wax.  Wax is slightly sticky so you will be able use the toothpick to pick up the glass and place it in the opening. Then lift the toothpick and the glass should stay in the opening.

I have one of these and it works pretty good.

https://www.micromark.com/Model-Pal-Vacuum-Pickup-Tool

[peteski]

I have one of these and it works pretty good.

https://www.micromark.com/Model-Pal-Vacuum-Pickup-Tool

Good to know that it works for you.

I also bought that exact tool few years ago and it sits unused.  I find the rubber bulb too stiff for precise control and release.  Maybe I just have weak fingers.   And of course the item needs to be flat for it to work.  I learned the waxy tip toothpick trick on another forum and it works much better for me.  I also have a roll of 3M pressure adhesive on a backing paper.  it is very thin film of rubbery sticky "goo".  I roll small amounts of it onto end of a toothpick. That gives me similar action to the wax tip, but with a bit more stickiness.

[nickelplate759]

BLI offered to send me the missing rear-side B-unit windows, so I've got a little wait before I can finish up.  Time to try making  consistently-sized  stainless handrails.

[AlbertSpor]

Hi all,
While perusing ebay this morning I found these, K4 has released 2 sets of decals for The Golden State passenger cars;
K4 N Decals Golden State Lightweight Passenger Car Rock Island Owned Cars, and K4 N Decals Golden State Lightweight Passenger Car Southern Pacific Owned Cars. $8.85 each set. Each one looks like it will do up to 6 cars, and includes the silver patches for the letterboards to go on top of the daylight red,
I know I will be getting several sets. Between this and the Railsmith cars, we should be able to build some accurate trains.
Albert Spor

[nickelplate759]

This is great!  My stock of the out-of-print Microscale SP Golden State decals is low, and they are starting to decay, but I still have plenty of cars to do!

Thanks for posting this.

[AlbertSpor]

Yeah, I thought you would be excited about this George.
Albert