Breaking the Sound Barrier (ESU)

[reinhardtjh]

New stocks of the LokProgrammer are in as Streamlined Backshops and Yankee Dabbler

28 in stock at this moment: https://store.sbs4dcc.com/esu53452lokprogrammerset.aspx

Listed as available at this moment: https://yankeedabbler.com/53452-esu-loksound-all-scales-esu-loksound-programmer-part-397-53452/

And, of course, the decoder tester which is really handy:

10 in stock at this moment: https://store.sbs4dcc.com/ESU53900LokTesterV2.0DCCDecoderTestStation.aspx

Listed as available at this moment: https://yankeedabbler.com/esu-53900-loksound-decoder-tester-scale-all-397-53900/

[Mark5]

Thanks, I finally received my Lokprogrammer about a week ago. 

Now waiting on the ESU 53900 LokTester ... hopefully will have it by next week.

Mark

[Mark5]

I wish I was one one of those that found themselves with more free time due to the pandemic, but unfortunately in my case - less time.

So I have some time this weekend, so I though I'd knock out my 1st decoder installs. NOPE. Seems I didn't think through the solder angle. The stuff I have on hand is rosin core stuff (radio shackish) about maybe 25 thousandths - I don't think I want to use that.

I've seen 63/47 recommended, what diameter is "best"?

Below is one place I was looking, but open to suggestions.

https://www.allelectronics.com/category/570600/solder-irons-accessories/solder-63/37/1.html

Also, soliciting suggestions as to what flux to use (or not).

Thanks!

[davefoxx]

What’s wrong with rosin core?  It’s the acid core we’re supposed to avoid with electrical work.  As far as size, I tin the soldering iron and work off the iron, so the solder size is irrelevant.  With a tiny bit of flux applied (I use an old tin of Radio Shack paste flux) to the wire or contact pad, the solder practically jumps off the iron right where you need it.

DFF

[Steveruger45]

I use this

Kester 44 Solder Wire, 63/37 0.015-in, RMA Rosin, 1/2-ounce Tube
Available on Amazon

I’ve also used the 0.020”  (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kester-44-Solder-Wire-63-37-0-020-RMA-Rosin-3-4oz-Tube-/233415641511?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286)   but prefer the slightly thinner 15 thou for decoder wiring.

[Mark5]

I take it any old rosin paste flux will do.

[Steveruger45]

I use SRA brand #135 rosin paste flux.  It’s about 8 bucks for a 2 oz pot the last time I bought some.

[peteski]

I take it any old rosin paste flux will do.

Make sure it is not acidic (if it is rosin, it shouldn't be) I use Radio Shack Electronic paste flux (because "electronic" mans safe for electronic work).

All my solders are rosin core, but for really precise soldering (like decoders) I melt some solder onto the soldering iron's tip, then apply the solder from the tip. Yes, I have some paste flux applied to the solder pad or the wire beforehand.  It is also important to tin the bare ends of copper wire before soldering them to the decoder. That allows for a much faster (and better) solder joint.

[Mark5]

I use SRA brand #135 rosin paste flux.  It’s about 8 bucks for a 2 oz pot the last time I bought some.

Thanks, will check the pushers. 

I use Radio Shack Electronic paste flux (because "electronic" mans safe for electronic work).

I guess that labeling disappeared with the stores.
This seems to be what they have now: https://www.radioshack.com/products/rosin-soldering-paste-flux

All my solders are rosin core, but for really precise soldering (like decoders) I melt some solder onto the soldering iron's tip, then apply the solder from the tip. 

That's my SOP for soldering electronics.  (Well sorta, I usually "melt" some of the rosin core on it first, then use the tip method. I always knew this was not the "right" way. )

Yes, I have some paste flux applied to the solder pad or the wire beforehand.

This is the step I skipped with my prior stuff (see above), but I don't want to take that chance with decoder$. 

It is also important to tin the bare ends of copper wire before soldering them to the decoder. That allows for a much faster (and better) solder joint.

Also my SOP. 

I'm a bit nervous due to how pricey these are, luckily my hands are still steady.

Now, I gotta order some of the above materials.

Mark

[peteski]

That Radio Shack soldering flux paste (packaging and the paste itself) look like the stuff I have, so yes, they likely just relabeled it.  It is also likely just repackaging of some product from another company.  I just recommended it because I have been using it for years and it works really well for me.

As far as the proper soldering techniques go, to me the bottom line is that as long as you achieve good solder joint, and don't damage anything, then whatever technique you use is ok.

Rosin core fluxes (where flux is incorporated into the solder wire) are designed for having the solder wire applied directly to the joined pieces, with the soldering iron's tip melting the solder at the joint.  That way the flux gets dispensed directly onto the solder joint.  That's fine for general soldering, but for such small jobs it  is often not feasible  to do it that way.

In such instances it is perfectly ok to apply the solder to the tip (and have the flux burn away), then apply the solder directly to the pre-fluxed  miniature solder joint.

I often first apply a small dome of solder to the solder pad, then apply past flux, then hold the wire to be soldered touching that domed solder, and apply heat from a "dry" (but cleaned) soldering iron tip.  That melts the solder on the pad and creates a nice solder joint.  This technique is handy for those small precise solder joints we make (and which would require 4 hands to use the standard soldering technique).

[Steveruger45]

^^^^
That is the same technique I use too.  Tape the decoder to a block of wood to stop it moving, Tin the pad, tin the wire, bring wire and tab together, apply a clean solder iron tip to make the join.  After all, I only have two hands. 😁