This week on how far can we go, 3D Printed Brake Rigging

[Erock482]

I've been working on a 3D Model of a D&RGW Class 8 3000 Series box car in HOn3, and have decided I'm going to go nuts and try something new and push the limits on the Photon Mono X.

Behold, an attempt at Brake Rigging! [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

In the past, I have found that I can do HO Scale grab irons at around 1.25" diameter in a vertical orientation on the sides of cars or if on the roof or deck of a car. So using that knowledge, air lines, fulcrums, and rigging have been added! And I'm dialing in the grab irons on the car itself, I find most horizontal car side applications need about 1.5" diameter to print without warping.

First test at .05 Layer height is on the machine, we'll see how it looks in the morning

[peteski]

That is great, but how about the fragility?  No problems if it is a display-only model, but how about a model that is used in operating sessions on a layout?  I'm not trying to diminish your achievement  - I'm just curious.

[Erock482]

I find the grab iron application to be quite sturdy, not as good as wire but still seemingly up to the task.

The brake rigging on the other hand I'm not sure, Longer spans and such will make them more fragile, atleast with the current resin I'm using.

A mix of sirya blu with the standard gray I'm using is a more durable option, and would likely make them stand up quite well to regular handling. I just havent dialed in the right mixture between the two that yields a good mix of durability and detail

[peteski]

I find the grab iron application to be quite sturdy, not as good as wire but still seemingly up to the task.

The brake rigging on the other hand I'm not sure, Longer spans and such will make them more fragile, atleast with the current resin I'm using.

A mix of sirya blu with the standard gray I'm using is a more durable option, and would likely make them stand up quite well to regular handling. I just havent dialed in the right mixture between the two that yields a good mix of durability and detail

Thanks!  That exceeds my expectations. I guess with all the different resins available, some custom mixtures can result in sturdy, yet flexible parts.

[Chris333]

You might want to print the underframe separate from the body. You could get a ripple dimple down the side of the body where the layer with the underframe ends.

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Now make it actually work.

[Erock482]

As most projects do with me, they get about 50% off the ground and then life takes over for a while before you can get back to them.

First attempt had some delaminating issues, so second go I added some supports to help carry the long span of the break rigging. Overall, I'm quite satisfied with the results. Need to trim out the supports, string in some truss rods, and get this underneath a car body.
[ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[robert3985]

As most projects do with me, they get about 50% off the ground and then life takes over for a while before you can get back to them.

First attempt had some delaminating issues, so second go I added some supports to help carry the long span of the break rigging. Overall, I'm quite satisfied with the results. Need to trim out the supports, string in some truss rods, and get this underneath a car body.
(Attachment Link) (Attachment Link) (Attachment Link)

Make sure to post some photos of this painted up.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Yeah, but does it work?

[Erock482]

Now Ed, don't go giving me more crazy ideas...

It could probably be attempted to a point, But would likely have to do wire linkages and pivots to make it function smoothly.

Also it couldn't be printed in one go, my preffered method for avoid pesky amounts of detail installation!

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Now Ed, don't go giving me more crazy ideas...

It could probably be attempted to a point, But would likely have to do wire linkages and pivots to make it function smoothly.

Also it couldn't be printed in one go, my preffered method for avoid pesky amounts of detail installation!

Just to be crazier... https://www.jameco.com/Jameco/workshop/Howitworks/how-muscle-wire-works.html

[wvgca]

these are a bunch of 24 foot truss rod flatcars printed up with a FDM 3d printer .....
i didn't bother with brake rigging as basically the car needs to be upside down to see that detail ..
some archrib trucks, kadee couplers and intermountain smooth back metal wheels finished them off .. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[robert3985]

...i didn't bother with brake rigging as basically the car needs to be upside down to see that detail ..
(Attachment Link)

Soooo....what's yer point?? 

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[JMaurer1]

What are they going to be used under?

[Erock482]

These are floors for D&RGW 3000 series boxcars.

Building a few of the rail line kits made me wonder years ago if there was an easier way, 3D printing yield incredibly similar results with less finicky kit work.

At current iteration the only separately applied detail parts for these cars are the following:

Brake Staff, Wheel, and lower support
Side Stirrups
Truss Rods and Turnbuckles
Couplers (Boxes for Kadee 714/715 are printed and couplers just need installed)
Screw on trucks (Also 3D Printed)