Atlas Code 80 rail joiners

[MK]

MK, I used that tool 1 time & broke it! those joiners suck. I've complained about to Atlas. They are too small. I used pliers & opened the gaps with a small glasses screwdriver. I have a good sized layout with 4 mainlines. i've cursed out Atlas & everyone that works there with every cut. On the other hand, I just came across Life-Like rail joiners from the 70's or early 80's. They went on perfectly! Just like the Atlas ones from the past.  It was a pleasure redoing an area on my layout. I hope Atlas revisits the dimensions of the track & joiners & gets them right.

I actually use a small scrap piece of aircraft grade birch plywood to push the joiners in once I get a start on them.  No cuts and not a single punture. 

I only give the link to the Atlas version because people above me were talking about it.

[Van Horne]

MK, I used that tool 1 time & broke it! those joiners suck. I've complained about to Atlas. They are too small. I used pliers & opened the gaps with a small glasses screwdriver. I have a good sized layout with 4 mainlines. i've cursed out Atlas & everyone that works there with every cut. On the other hand, I just came across Life-Like rail joiners from the 70's or early 80's. They went on perfectly! Just like the Atlas ones from the past.  It was a pleasure redoing an area on my layout. I hope Atlas revisits the dimensions of the track & joiners & gets them right.

Having used that tool many times, I really don't understand how you could break it in normal use.  What happened?

David

[cjp53]

Okay.  An illustrated primer.  No extra tools needed.

Do not separate the joiners!  Even the plumpest of digits can work with a strip of 4.  Slide the first joiner on like so.



Now simply bend the strip back and forth until it snaps off. Like so!Thanks for the pictures,I'm not good at soldering and have not done any since I did my HO layout almost 30 years ago.Any tips on that would be much appreciated.



No jagged end to hurt yourself on, no special tools required.  And when you get down to the final joined of the strip, throw it away and go spend $1.79 on a box of extra joiners.

I hope you find this information helpful.



Lee

[cjp53]

Thanks wm3798 for the pictures,I did reply but your post appeared without my reply.Any tips on soldering?I have not done any since I put in my HO layout 29 years ago.

[Curtis Kyger]

And speaking of soldering rail joints....

One major key to successful soldering is making sure that the surfaces are clean.  File, use a bright boy or clean with alcohol or your choice of more aggressive chemicals, but make sure the solder can attached to a clean surface.

Soldering isn't just for electrical conductivity.  I also solder the joints to make sure I have alignment of the two rail heads both horizontally and vertically in order to eliminate those potential impact points.  Rail joints that are in alignment will also help when cleaning track in that your cleaning pads or cloths won't snag on the joints.

I tend to use much more flux than most people.  I start by using a toothpick to apply a very small dab on the rail joiner itself before I push it onto the rail.  I also apply a small amount to the field side of the rails at the joint.  I solder the joint while having my rail nippers close at hand to be used as a tool for rail alignment.  The heat from the soldering iron will melt the flux and it pull the solder into the joint. (Which is why my small touch of solder on the rail base area of the joiner is considered extra). 

After soldering the joint:  use an NMRA gauge to make sure the final rail gauge is not too tight nor too loose. Use a jewelers file to make sure the gauge faces and top of rails are smooth.  If you have too much of a blob on the gauge side of the joint, you can dress that too with files. 

[wm3798]

Good information.  I'll be installing some more snap track on my Retro 2.0 layout in the coming days.  I'll try to remember to take some pictures for you.
Stay tuned.
Lee

[cjp53]

Thank you for that great information on soldering Curtis,I might get at this this weekend.Looking forward to pictures if you get the chance Lee.I have to make a trip to my train shop for joiners for my flex track straight sections and to pick up a set of joiners to use to connect to my power pack.I have rail nippers I use for my HO layout but have to find them in the basement.

[randgust]

Just don't get too carried away.   I make sure that nothing is longer than 48" without an expansion gap and a regular rail joiner in there, but I'll either put in a feeder or a jumper wire in there.

After my first N layout where I soldered nothing, and then painted and ballasted track - well, that didn't go well.   Lots of dead rail spots.  So two rules evolved.. at least on a 'permanent' layout....

1)  Never, ever, ever re-use a curled Atlas-style rail joiner any more than you'd re-use toilet paper.  Not worth it.   Once they are oxidized, and even a hair loose, toss 'em and use a fresh one.   

2) Either solder rail joints, or put in feeders, if you're planning on painting and ballasting down the road.

And, at least on all the Atlas C80 stuff, and even my Pecos, I put a fine flex wire jumper between switchpoints and stock rails so those don't go dead after a few years.   That takes some soldering skill for sure, but it does make for bulletproof track.

I have track that's now been in service since 1983....   And on the Hickory Valley portable layout since 1976.

[robert3985]

Since the subject of "soldering" has come up, I would be remiss if I didn't say what I always say about it.

(1) The very best (THE VERY BEST) flux for soldering NS track is Superior Super Safe #30 flux... available here: https://www.hnflux.com/

Using it will transform you into an expert solderer if you have a 35W clean and tinned wedge-tipped soldering iron...really.

(2) for soldering track, you should use a silver-bearing solder and this is the best...96/4 Tin/Silver solder...which is 7 times stronger than normal old Lead/Tin electrical solder.  Buy it here:  https://www.hnflux.com/page25.html

I have used both of these products for several decades both for soldering flex track together, making hundreds and hundreds of turnouts, and constructing various brass/NS models.  It is THE BEST COMBINATION for model railroaders to use when needing structural and electrical joints...like in track.

It'll give you the fastest, cleanest and most secure solder joints you have ever made.

Okay...bye now!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[cjp53]

Thanks for the great advice,I'll reread everything a few times.Feeder wires,are they a must?I did do those with my HO layout which is 24 by 12 feet in my basement.My N layout is 70 inches by 44 inches and I'm only putting in one line with no switches.I'm more into scenery with this one as it's a Amish farm layout and I built most of the building.

[DKS]

@robert3985 's post has become something of a Railwire meme. But the point is, liquid flux is your best friend. Touch the joint with a small brush dipped in liquid flux, and capillary action will draw it into every part of the joint. Then, heat the joint, touch it with solder, and capillary action will likewise draw the solder into the entire joint. A relatively small amount of solder it's all that's needed to make a "perfect" joint. After you've done a few, you'll know to what to look for.

[peteski]

Using flux is an excellent advice. But since we are dealing with electricity here (running through the track), do not use any acidic fluxes (like TIX FLux which contains zinc chloride, or fluxes with hydrochloric acid). Those conduct electricity and can cause problems by creating shorts (especially around turnouts).  Use fluxes designed for electronics.  Either the one Bob mentioned, or any rosin-based flux.

[cjp53]

Thank you I will get that type of flux.