Author Topic: The good news is, I didn't pay much for it... Steam Question for the tinkerers..  (Read 4298 times)

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DKS

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I'm sure I committed some "double negative" reversing more things than I needed...

Almost certainly. Swapping the motor leads alone should do the trick. Anything else (like flipping trucks) usually won't.

Doug G.

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The actual cause of brush material build-up in the commutator slots in motors is the brushes themselves. They are too soft. The basic construction of all those early motors was basically the same, copper commutator plates, armature, magnets housing, etc., so it's not likely to be any of those things.

My original Atlas/RoCo locomotives from the early - mid seventies were terrible for that build up and fire rings when they were new. However, after all these years, they now run great and the commutator slots stay unplugged. I can only assume the brushes have hardened a bit over time.

Also, I know max and others have devised excellent methods to improve, drastically, the old Trix K4, especially current pickup. I have a thing about keeping old things original, however, so I just disassemble everything and completely clean and polish every surface possibly involved with current transfer and they run fine after that. An important, possibly overlooked surface is the drawbar stud on the trailing truck on which the spring wire from the tender rides. Even though it's chemically blackened Zamac, it still gets dirty. Make sure there is plenty of tension on the spring wire, too, so it bears against the stud reliably.

I did have to run a wire directly from the front tender truck pickup to the motor on one of mine because, somehow once, while I was running it, a short occurred on one of my Treble-O-Lectric switches and it burnt off part of the spring wire immediately (I saw it glow bright red) so it no longer contacted the drawbar stud. Even ignoring the destruction of the spring wire, there was a drastic improvement in continuity but I don't think I had cleaned the stud yet before that happened.

Doug

Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

Doug G.

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Almost certainly. Swapping the motor leads alone should do the trick. Anything else (like flipping trucks) usually won't.

Yes, reversing the wires to the motor HAS to work. Otherwise, a new law of physics has been discovered.

Doug
Atlas First Generation Motive Power and Treble-O-Lectric. Click on the link:
www.irwinsjournal.com/a1g/a1glocos/

jbcz

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I heartily support the idea of the spectrum tender frame as a replacement for original Minitrix version.  I used a Bachmann USRA long tender as the basis of a B&M P4 tender using the Minitrix K4 Chassis as the basis of the P4 loco.  The B&M loco is a mid 70's performer, i.e., a bit fast starting and limited speed control but with the new tender wired direct to the loco absolutely no hestation starting and maintaining about 40 SMPH around my entire RR.  I did the same thing to fabricate a PRR N1 2-10-2 from a Minitrix 2-10-0 using a Spectrum medium tender and the shell of the K4 tender superstructure (because I already had it) for the tender.  For the 2-10-2, I simply cut the bottom of the tender shell to the proper height and built a new coal bunker.  You can see that from the photo.  On the K4, the tender does not have a rail like the 2-10-2 but it would seem that you could file the Bachmann chassis to fit the K4 tender superstructure.  That would allow you to keep all of the tender innards which is a major plus.  In terms of dimensions, it was an easy "drop on".

Lemosteam

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metalworkertom

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Yes Thank you Max. I have one I need to do gear replacement on. Great source.