The Budd RDC Car Phase II Build Thread (N Scale)

[BCR 570]

Introduction
By request, I am starting a build thread for my two Phase II Budd RDC Cars in N Scale.  As many of you are aware, Con-Cor produced Phase I RDC-1s, RDC-2s and RDC-3s for many years and they were decent models.  In more recent times Kato USA has offered Phase I RDC-1s, RDC-2s, RDC-3s and RDC-4s which offered a higher level of detail and a more modern mechanism.  Digitrax brought out a decoder to convert the Kato models to DCC.  Miniatures By Eric offers resin headlight and pilot castings for the purpose of converting either the Con-Cor or Kato models to Phase II, but these parts do not address all of the differences between the two phases.  There are now several different replacement shells available on Shapeways which offers the N Scale modeller an opportunity to build a fairly accurate Phase II car.  Of course HO Scale modellers have the very fine Phase II models from Rapido Trains.  I am embarking on my Phase II builds in N Scale with an assurance from Jason that they will not be offered in N Scale . . .


Phase Differences
Phase I cars are distinguished by the following features:
- fabricated truck sideframes
- powered by 275 hp engines
- inset or no end pilots
- large end cab windows
- number boards on the sides
- headlights set into the ends
- roof fluting terminates in line with side doors
- roof module has separate radiator screens with solid panel between
- roof module has two sets of side louvers with ribbed panel between
  (Note:  There were further differences within the Phase I group of cars.)

Phase II cars were modified as follows:
- cast truck sideframes
- powered by 280 hp engines
- enlarged end pilots
- optional fluting across side doors onto ends
- smaller end cab windows
- number boards moved to the ends above the cab windows
- headlights moved to roof and enclosed in faired housing
- roof fluting terminates short of the side doors
- roof module contains single radiator screen (no side louvers)


My Prototype
The Pacific Great Eastern Railway purchased three RDC-1s and three RDC-3s in 1956.  A fourth RDC-3 followed in 1957.  They operated from North Vancouver to Prince George, and for a short time also to Chetwynd, Fort St. John and Dawson Creek.  The British Columbia Railway purchased four RDC-3s from Amtrak in 1976 (only one entered service) and three RDC-1s from Reading in 1983.  BC Rail acquired additional units from VIA Rail in 1990.  The railway's Cariboo Dayliner service continued until 2002.

I am modelling the British Columbia Railway's Dawson Creek Subdivision in 1977.  The Budd RDC cars did not operate on the north end by this time, but occasionally visited the area for charter trips or corporate tours.  I have elected to model one RDC-1 and one RDC-3 in the British Columbia Railway's two tone green scheme with dogwood logograms.  At this time the RDC cars were equipped with a portable headlight on the front door, Pathfinder lights on the front roof, five chime air horns, and Sinclair radio antennas.

I chose to model RDC-1 No. BC-11, which retained fluting on both ends at this time, and RDC-3 No. BC-30, which had lost its front end fluting and had the rear end fluting transferred to the front to replace it.  Pictures of these units during this time period may be seen here:

http://www.cnrphotos.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=48245

http://www.cnrphotos.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=103570


In the next post I will describe how I plan to model these two units.


Tim

[BCR 570]

The Models
My two models will be based on the Kato mechanisms.  Several years ago I purchased a set comprising an undecorated RDC-3 and RDC-1 with the intent of using the Miniatures By Eric parts to attempt some Phase II conversions.  Chris Dittmar (BCOL 747) has successfully completed such a conversion.  I had not got around to my own conversions when I learned of Phase II replacement shells for the Reading RDC-1s appearing on Shapeways, followed by the BCR ones.  They are offered by Mike Bartel dba IHP Hobby, and there are versions for the PGE/BCR RDC-1 and RDC-3 as originally built, and the rebuilt versions for BC Rail.  Doug Davies (BCR 751) has completed three units with the replacement shells so I will be following in his footsteps, although with the earlier version of the shells, different detail parts, and in an earlier paint scheme.

Here is the Kato set is it came:




And here they are out of the box:




Here are the replacement shells from IHP Hobby as they came from Shapeways:




And here are some of the detail parts I will use in my project:




These include Miniatures By Eric five chime horns, CNR ditch lights, either Miniatures By Eric or Sunrise Enterprises portable headlights, and Micro-Trains #1015 couplers.


I will need to convert the mechanisms for DCC operation and hope to use a LokSound decoder with a custom RDC sound file - more on that later.


In the next instalment I will cover the initial preparatory work on the replacement shells.


Tim

[jmlaboda]

Phase Differences
Phase I cars are distinguished by the following features:...

- headlights set into the ends

One thing to watch out for is Phase Is that have the raised headlight.  While the application was rather rare, with most Budd cars (Phase I) did have the headlight just above the doorway one or two roads (can't remember who right off hand) specified diaphragms to be applied to the end and on those Ph. I cars the same high headlight assembly was applied since the typical placement was covered by the diaphragm.

[BCR 570]

Yes, I referred to differences within Phase I construction with (Note:  There were further differences within the Phase I group of cars.)

Preparation of Replacement Shells (Part 1)
Before beginning this project, it is necessary to soak the replacement shells and remove the wax residue.  The usual method is to soak the parts in Bestine, a thinner for rubber cement which was manufactured by the Union Rubber Co.  They have gone out of business, but sold their patents to the Speedball Co. who are in the process of returning this product to market.  It has yet to hit store shelves in Canada, so I opted for laboratory grade heptane, which is the same thing and is available from Amazon.

This product is highly flammable and has a high rate of evaporation so it must be stored in a tightly sealed glass jar.  I sourced one which was tall enough to accommodate the RDC shells, and it also accommodated all of the 32 fluid ounces I purchased!  The shells went into the heptane for a week:




After coming out of the jar, the shells can be assessed for print quality.  The fluted front ends and sides came out very well, with some minor patterning on the flat surfaces above and between the windows.  The rear ends came out fairly well, with increased roughness; fortunately this is in areas where it can be sanded away.  The roofs came out fair, with cleanup required on the ends where the roof curves down, and the roof modules which are somewhat rough.  This is not much of a problem as I will remove much of the roof module to insert see-through radiator screens.  here are pictures of the shells after the heptane soak.

Front Oblique View:








Rear Oblique View:




Side Views:






End Views:






I am now surveying the shells and making notes as I try to determine the best way to get them to a higher level in preparation for painting.  The next step for them will be to wash them in warm soapy water and scrub them with a toothbrush to remove any residual traces of the heptane, as we do not want it interfering with the adhesion of paint.  Doug informs me that the side walls are prone to warpage after this process and the shells will need to be clamped to a block, so I have to prepare some blocks to go inside the shells.  I have also disasembled one of the Kato RDC models to learn what modifications need to be made to accommodate the replacement shells.


Tim

[robert3985]

...The next step for them will be to wash them in warm soapy water and scrub them with a toothbrush to remove any residual traces of the heptane, as we do not want it interfering with the adhesion of paint... 

Tim

This step is counter productive as there will be NO residual traces of heptane because it completely evaporates very quickly.  You'll have much more residue from soap and finger oils if you do this unnecessary step.  A heptane bath or scrub is always my last step before painting ANY model surface as it is an extremely effective degreaser/dewaxer.  There are some contaminants that heptane won't remove, which is why I also do the soapy water and toothbrush scrub step...but the heptane wipe/scrub/soak is always my last step before painting because it leaves ZERO residue.

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[peteski]

The original heptane bath dissolved whatever wax was still on the shells. That wax was dispersed in the heptane. When the shell was removed from the bath, whatever traces of wax were dispersed in the heptane still remaining on the shell would have stayed behind on the shell when it evaporated.  It is a very small amount but if you are worried (or anal as I am), give it a second bath in clean heptane. Now that trace amount of remaining wax will be washed away and dissolved in a new batch of heptane.  Now when you remove the shell from that bath, there is virtually no wax left.

This procedure is similar to cleaning paintbrushes. You have 2 containers with paint thinner. You wash the dirty brush in the first container, flick off the remaining thinner then give the brush a 2nd bath in the 2nd container. At that point the brush is pretty much clean.

[robert3985]

The original heptane bath dissolved whatever wax was still on the shells. That wax was dispersed in the heptane. When the shell was removed from the bath, whatever traces of wax were dispersed in the heptane still remaining on the shell would have stayed behind on the shell when it evaporated.  It is a very small amount but if you are worried (or anal as I am), give it a second bath in clean heptane. Now that trace amount of remaining wax will be washed away and dissolved in a new batch of heptane.  Now when you remove the shell from that bath, there is virtually no wax left.

This procedure is similar to cleaning paintbrushes. You have 2 containers with paint thinner. You wash the dirty brush in the first container, flick off the remaining thinner then give the brush a 2nd bath in the 2nd container. At that point the brush is pretty much clean.

@peteski  Peter....  PERFECT!

Cheerio!
Bob Gilmore

[BCR 570]

Interesting comments - given the amount of handling required to work on these shells, a cleaning later than sooner makes sense.

Tim

[craigolio1]

Tim didn't you have to go to the US to pick up your Heptane?

Craig

[BCR 570]

Yes that is correct, I ordered it from Amazon.com and picked it up south of the border.  It is only about a 45 minute drive to Point Roberts and is a good solution for items which are significantly less expensive in the United States, available from companies which do not ship to Canada, or in this case, not available in Canada.

Tim