Sound decoder into the N ConCor M-10000?

[OldEastRR]

It IS DCC-ready in the sense it has an 8-pin NMRA plug in the circuit board. The instructions talk about a "sound decoder" but I'm pretty sure nobody ever made one of those. Has anybody heard of one?

[tehachapifan]

You mean a sound decoder with an 8 pin plug? I know there's a Loksound Select Micro decoder with an 8 pin plug and probably others.

[peteski]

I think they mention sound decoder compatibility because they molded a speaker grille in the chassis. Some sound decoders have the 8-pin plugs, but the rest of the components (speakers, keep alive cap) are hard-wired. So it will not be a plug-n-play install by any means.  I don't  even know if there are sound files available for this train.  Someone just recently asked about what horn was used by this train.

[C855B]

I fail to see the objective here. The M-10000 had a gasoline ("distillate") prime mover. I seriously, seriously doubt any of the sound decoder makers have a provable reference file for it.

[pdx1955]

I fail to see the objective here. The M-10000 had a gasoline ("distillate") prime mover. I seriously, seriously doubt any of the sound decoder makers have a provable reference file for it.

I note that Streamlined Backshop has ESU LokSound decoders with files for the Pioneer Zephyr and a Winton-powered doodlebug. There are also Tsunami decoders for the Galloping Goose and a Whitcomb. Between these, I would think something would be close enough.

[OldEastRR]

Both TCS and Digitrax make decoders that plug into the ConCor socket. Because of the configuration you need a harness attached to the short side of the plug to fit. But the speaker would have to be pretty tiny to fit ibn these narrow cars.

[peteski]

Al, after some of your earlier posts ( like this or this ) where you seem to have hate-hate relationship with DCC you are jumping in not only into more DCC, but even sound DCC (which is way more complex that the basic DCC).

Remember this post?
I just don't get DCC. It's very complex and inconsistent. I'm still not convinced you don't need deep electronics experience to actually make it work. I hardwired a decoder into a loco, it ran fine. there were glitches once in a while when it forgot its address number but for the most part it ran. Left it sitting on a non-powered layout for a week, tried it ... dead. A friend took it to a club where they had sophisticated equipment told me the decoder wasn't dead, it wasn't sending power to the motor. Registered the decoder on the programming track, could turn the lights on and off. Took the thing apart, tested all the wires running from the decoder to the various assemblies, current flow through all. Tried reset. Dead.
I'll try to get Digitrax to take it back AGAIN (first time the wires came off while I was trying to install it). But I wonder what the fk you have to do to get decent DCC. Any static electricity, any derailing, any dirty piece of track can send a loco flying or dying. I just don't get it. I've got no reversing loops, all frogs isolated, lots of feeders, a Zephyr pack ---I haven't tried any but a couple of CV changes to decoders. I guess some people are lucky with DCC, some aren't. Very very complex science. It's not just push a few buttons, add all kinds of neat features to your loco. Nope.

I'm genuinely surprised at your sudden interest in this complex and unfriendly technology.

[bobthebear]

I fitted a Loksound Select Micro, shortened all the leads to the plug, then fitted a sugar cube in the extra 3rd car.

[OldEastRR]

I'm genuinely surprised at your sudden interest in this complex and unfriendly technology.

Simple. I found a professional that can do all that stuff easily. Always contract out stuff you don't understand ...Plus I realized (with the Atlas S-2) that buying locos with all that stuff factory installed makes it sooooo easy to use. Tho I should have learned that with my PCM E7.

This M10000 question was just because I have one and took it apart to see if it was "DCC ready" as claimed. A plug-in decoder seems even better than a drop-in one. However I have been toying around with the idea of turning the CC M10000 into the M10001, which requires shortening the power unit (among other things). This is made easier if the decoder  and it's complex support wiring isn't in the power unit -- it isn't.