How to weather freight cars for you layout

[RonsTrainsNThings]

Few things add realism to a model railroad light good weathering. Here are some techniques I use when weathering freight cars for my N scale layout. These techniques can be use in any scale. I demonstrate them on an Atlas covered hopper.

/>

[ednadolski]

Nice vid for getting started.   A couple of quick/random thoughts:

- References: proto pics are very helpful to decide where to apply various effects and achieve a realistic, natural look.

 - Fade Coat: It's usually preferable to do this first. It provides a surface for the subsequent layers to adhere (also, rust and grime don't fade like paint). A great (tho long) reference is here: https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=16573.msg141711#msg141711

- Model Paints: I usually don't use these for fading/rust/grime.  They are too opaque and harder to control than artists paints.  This video uses traditional oils, you can also get nice results with water-based oils, acrylics, and/or gouaches.  (Be cautious of powders - they are good for some effects but are easy to overdo and often can look like, well, powder.)

- Less is More: when unsure, go with less weathering.  Subtle tends to be more convincing than overdoing.

- 16:52 -- "Don't be afraid to give it a shot".  Amen to that!  And be sure to have fun!

Cheers,
Ed

[mu26aeh]

For weathering / graffiti work, my go to is www.rrpicturearchives.com .  Tons of pictures, and you can sort by roadnames, car types, and road numbers.  If you can't find the specific number, you can find cars in the same series.  Often cars painted together will weather in the same fashion/manner. 

Lots of great information and tips on your videos so far !  Love it

[migalyto]

Another great video Ron!

[coosvalley]

I second everything Ed has said ...

Rule #1- Start with Proto pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   

I NEVER use model paints for weathering, instead I prefer to use Gouaches, because they can easily be removed if you're not happy with the results. If you are happy, hit it with Dullcote, and you're good to go! I also use acrylics when needed as well...Water based oils can be harder to learn to use than Gouaches or Acrylics, but their results are also quite nice and definitely a good tool for the weathering arsenal...

One thing I saw in the video that is a bad idea, is he paints the trucks without wheels in place. This allows paint to get into the axle cups, which can "gum up" over time(ask me how I know! ).. I place plastic "junk" wheels into the trucks before painting, and remove them once I'm done painting. Also, paint does not like to stick to the plastic used in most plastic trucks, and once you start to handle them often, some of the paint will flake off leaving behind portions on the truck being unpainted. To prevent this, I usually hit it with a spray of "adhesion promoter" primer(it's actually a clear spray). If you do this first, paint does stick to the trucks. I use the same stuff for painting plastic handrails, and it keeps the paint from flaking off later. If you ever need to paint Delrin or other "slippery" plastics, get yourself a spray bomb of the stuff...( I got mine at Napa Auto parts, for about 10$)

And for those who wish to learn even more about weathering techniques, I suggest visiting The Weathering Shop, and their forum The Rustbucket. ..There you will find hours of good reading on the subject, and plenty of "how tos" as well. Oh and tons of beautifully weathered models to drool over as well!

As for the video, I actually made it to the end, so at least the presentation was well done. I generally avoid "weathering how to" videos, simply because there are so many folks who think once they've weathered one car, now they're an expert...I didn't get that feeling here. And the results were not bad at all, I feel a fade beforehand is the only thing that was really missing..

[Santa Fe N Scale]

Ron, thanks for taking the time to create this video.  I think you hit on some good tips.

I always start all weathering attacks on all plastic cars with washing the car at the kitchen sink using hot water from the tap and a tiny drop of blue Dawn
dish soap.
After removing the trucks, I give the entire car a careful sudsy wash with my finger tip or a soft clean brush, followed by a thorough rinse.
When the car is completely dry, my next step is giving the car a good fade with an airbrush or thin washes of cheap craft paint based on prototype flicks for the particular type car I am working on.
I use cheap acrylic craft paint, water soluble oils and powders only for my weathering.
As Ed and Joe mentioned... less is more, always go lighter to darker, use quality brushes etc. follow prototype examples for rust placement, streaks etc.

Craig