PRR Senator consist help

[bbussey]

In N scale, etched fluting in brass or nickel does not render with sharp edges.  It is more than acceptable.

[peteski]

In N scale, etched fluting in brass or nickel does not render with sharp edges.  It is more than acceptable.

Yes, the etching process creates a curved valleys.  The top edges will still be flat (not convex) but that is not too objectionable in N scale.  Not as true to prototype fluting as well done injection molded bodies, but pretty darn close.

[CodyO]

Have a look at this link.
 http://www.trainweb.org/fredatsf/consists2.htm

That may be good to get it to look close but
My point was to take the time to actually make a correct consist

I think Bryan and I both have good ideas to approach and finish this someday project

[bbussey]

Yes, the etching process creates a curved valleys.  The top edges will still be flat (not convex) but that is not too objectionable in N scale.  Not as true to prototype fluting as well done injection molded bodies, but pretty darn close.

They will be convex if the flute height is no greater than the metal thickness.  Easy to control when sourcing the thickness of the brass/nickel in millimeters.

[CodyO]

@bbussey Any leads on someone good to talk to about getting the sides etched?

I have the 3D Printed masters but no one to cast them out as cars. And it looks like a cheaper route will be Union Station Products sides but the fluting is applied separately and I`m unsure how that is going to work.
Anyone have any experience with the USP Sides? 

[bbussey]

PPD Limited.  Use .30mm brass or nickel, as they are soft enough to give you rounded edges on your flutes.  Stainless steel is very cool after polishing the etched surfaces, but the edges would be sharper due to the harder metal and the flutes would not be as rounded.  The nickel gives you an aged and weathered stainless look without having to paint.  The brass obviously would have to be painted.

[CodyO]

Thanks Bryan, I think the nickel would be a good route. What program do you normally use for drawing out the car sides?

[bbussey]

I use CorelDraw but any AutoCad-type vector program will work. PPD has guidelines posted on their website.

[randgust]

I've done experiments with resin casting out of RP masters, it's been a mixed bag so far.

1)  You have to design the interior of the RP print smooth - really smooth - no undercuts, edges, etc. and other misc, hangups.
2)  Whether your realize it or not - the RP prints are porous.   They retain air.    When you do the molds, they will outgas that air into the molding media (rubber or whatever).  You need to seal/prime them in some manner to at least minimize it or you will have small bubbles everywhere on the molds.
3)  Priming and sealing 'may' cause the master to both shrink and/or warp, depending on the material.   I've proved it dimensionally.
4)  Depending on what you're casting material is, you may have a shrinkage factor that needs to be addressed in the size ratio of the original print.
5)  CR600 at least has a minimum wall thickness of about .020; you may get lucky but don't count on it of anything less than that.
6)  FUD, anyway, is just incredibly brittle for a master and getting the molds off the master without damaging anything is always a challenge.

Despite all that, I've managed to do it, but it's a lot harder than I imagined.   I've been used to scratchbuilding my masters out of wood, styrene, and metal and have literally made thousands of resin parts.   I've made multi-part, rather complicated molds with all manner of inserts and using injection molded resin.   This is still an adventure, and I've been casting now for 11 years.