Casting Steam (was: And even more steam questions)

[peteski]

I'm definitely interested in B&M steam.
 

[garethashenden]

I also made some real progress on the Bachmann J chassis for my R1. Things are starting to look good for that project. Would it be worth it to cast the R1 shell? Is there anyone interested in B&M steam?

A R1d is on my one-day list. I'm settling pretty firmly on 1949/1950, so the a/b/c sub classes were gone by then. They went to the B&O in 1947. It's not the top priority for me, as most of the heavy freight steam went so early and I like FTs. I really need to get back to my B15 project. After that I plan on a T1 (because it's so ugly), P2 and P4 pacifics and a G11.
But in an ideal world I would like to capture all the iconic classes, including the R1. If you can produce a good quality accurate shell it could bump the R1 up the list. I may even be up for a couple, depending on the specifics.

[jmlaboda]

Anyway, I made an album in Rail Images here:

http://www.trainboard.com/highball/index.php?media/albums/rlw-parts.2621

Adding the name of the part would be even better so modelers know what they are looking at...

[chessie system fan]

Yeah since they were sold to B&O I'm interested,  but with as few compromises as possible.   If it helps I've got a LL Berkshire  you can borrow.

[mmagliaro]

On those clear traction tires...
If they are the "Super Traction Tires" by Calumet or Stewart, I would pass on those.   They are rigid, hard to stretch onto the drivers, and prone to lumpy spots and uneven operation.  I've used them in the past, in a pinch, but I would really REALLY avoid them now.

[peteski]

On those clear traction tires...
If they are the "Super Traction Tires" by Calumet or Stewart, I would pass on those.   They are rigid, hard to stretch onto the drivers, and prone to lumpy spots and uneven operation.  I've used them in the past, in a pinch, but I would really REALLY avoid them now.

There is a plethora of N scale traction tires available from European model manufacturers (Fleischmann, Minitrix, Piko, etc.)  for steam and diesel models.  I have about dozen examples. One of these days I'll try to catalog them by size.  They are fairly easy to get (if you know the part number).  I get most of my spare parts (including tires) from DM-Toys in Germany, but the shipping is steep if all you get is the tires.  Reynaulds (in USA) seems to now be more willing than ever to order parts too (but there will be long wait from either source).  However that is better than the alternative (not getting any parts at all).

[daniel_leavitt2000]

The R1a/b/c will have some serious comprimises due to the model it is based on, the Bachmann Northern. It will be too fat by a wide margin, the walkway is too high by about a foot and I have not even thought about what to do under the walkway. I may splice and flip the upper portion of another shell to continue the boiler below. Also the bands will be totally incorrect. I experimented with shaving them down to use Archer resin bands, but was not happy with the result.

I would love to get my hands on the Berk, mostly for the tender, but I would like to measure the chassis to see if this would be a better fit for the R1 than the Bachmann J. I'm not sure how I feel about disassembling the engine itself. My 0-8-0 is insanely fragile compared to my Bachmann engines

Yeah since they were sold to B&O I'm interested,  but with as few compromises as possible.   If it helps I've got a LL Berkshire  you can borrow.

[superturbine]

Did somebody say my name?

[chessie system fan]

I measured the berk tender against some plans and it's fairly close.   The main differences are a shallower curved top and a much different water hatch.  I can send you a junk mechanism too, but I think you'll easily find that turning a 2-8-x into a 4-8-x is not worth the enormous amount of effort required.

A problem with the bachmann mountain, as I'm sure you know,  is the bottom is flat not curved like a boiler should be.   That's probably too big of a compromise for me.  I wonder if the concor S2 is close.

[chessie system fan]

Just dug deeper in my junk box and found an mrc NW Y tender shell and dog house.  Also a con cor J3a. 

I seriously think scratch building the boiler is the best way to go.  Maybe start with a brass tubing core and wrap it with styrene to shape the various contours.  Check this out:

https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/60361449@N02/sets/72157657373615813/

Check out his other albums too for more scratch building inspiration.

[ridinshotgun]

Did somebody say my name?

Are you back to doing castings?  Specifically the SP stuff?

[daniel_leavitt2000]

Pete's care package came today with samples of the MP tender, and cab types. What really surprised me was that the MP 2-6-0/4-4-0 tender shell  is a DIRECT swap onto the Bachmann slope tender chassis. No modifications are needed at all.

Jason... Long story short:
I am building a shelf layout for my house in Thailand. It will be based on a fictitious town on the border of NH and ME. The era is 1930-1941, pre war. Focus is on B&M, only steam will be used.

As I model modern trains, steam is a challenge. I can't find parts. I don't know how to go about some of the kit bashes I want to do. Right now I own the following equipment:
Bachmann 0-6-0. 2-6-0. 4-6-0. 2-8-0, MP 4-4-0, LL 0-8-0 all in Boston and Maine (or will be soon). All models will be upgraded to low friction tenders. I also have an Bachmann MEC 0-6-0 for transfer runs.

Other equipment I gathered over the years: Bachmann 2-6-6-2 in W&LE, 4-8-2 unlettered, and a N&W J.

I have several project engines for kit bashing: Another Bachmann J will provide the chassis for a B&M R1a/b/c, A third 0-6-0 with no reason to live and a Bachmann Northern which inspired me to try the B&M R1 to begin with.

So, I am looking for advice in general. Casting techniques for boilers. Where you get your parts. How you choose the models you want to create. Etc.

[superturbine]

Casting technic for a boiler. 

Fill the voids with playdoh to prevent mold lock.
Reinforce the cab roof overhang with styrene or playdoh.
Fill the cab with play-doh but removed playdoh to form the windows when being molded
Reinforce thin walkways with styrene. 
When making the mold allow air reliefs to avoid air pocket, leave at many details as possible except handrails
Form the mold box like a coin purse which opens up/ angle cuts at the ends.
Vacuum the mold
Cast at 100psi

Bore out the casting with various carbide bits and a dremile tool.  You will make a awful mess.  I alway cast my boilers solid.  2 part/ hollow castings will not work for a round boiler.  Use a bright light when boring out the casting to check casting thickness

Your first casting will not be the best.  Be prepared to make modifications to the mold to avoid air pockets.
Silpak was the best in my experience



Best
Jason Smith

[superturbine]

Are you back to doing castings?  Specifically the SP stuff?

No unfortunately where casting pots use to sit rest motorcycle engines.  Current project is a 330 horsepower Kawasaki Ninja H2R.

[peteski]

No unfortunately where casting pots use to sit rest motorcycle engines.  Current project is a 330 horsepower Kawasaki Ninja H2R.

Cool! You are a man of many wildly different talents (and hobbies).