Adhesive for Clear Parts

[kelleywpns]

All

I've got two questions regarding gluing clear acetate to models (specifically windows inside structures):

Is there another recommended brand other than the Testors Clear Parts Cement (nothing against this item, just wondering if there were any other options)?

Also, if I paint the inside of my structures black first, with the clear parts cement bond to the painted surface?

Thanks for your help.

Mike

[bbussey]

1) white glue
2) Microscale Kristal Klear
3) odorless CA+

[peteski]

1) white glue
2) Microscale Kristal Klear
3) odorless CA+

TO add to that list:
4) 5-minute epoxy
5) any CA glue used with accelerator.

The accelerator I specifically recommend is BSI brand INST-A-SET. It has a very low (strawbery-like) odor and importanyly it does nto attack styrene like many other accelerators.

I also sometimes simply use soldering iron (with its temperature turned down) to weld the window material to the wall.  I just dab the soldering iron tip in few spots over the clear styrene, letting it melt through the clear sheet and into the wall. That creates "spot welds".

[Bart1701]

Another suggestion is "Formula 560 - Canopy Glue" (Pacer Technology's product #PT-56). The bottle says it bonds canopies and plastic parts to practically anything. You should be able to find it at most Hobby Shops that carry plastic airplane models. I have also seen it at other hobby shops - including my local model train shop. I have used it to secure signs on the inside of building windows. It goes on white, but dries clear.

Bart

[jimmo]

Aleene's Original Tacky Glue. Works on painted interior surfaces, won't fog window glazing. Easily removable if you mess up or get clumsy. Also holds window shades, etc. Available in any crafts store or crafts department of any store. Long shelf life. I've had the same 4oz bottle that I found in a box of crafts supplies my wife brought home from her school years ago. Cheap. I looked at the price of picking up a new bottle a while back, about two bucks.

Petski, you are one brave soul for going after a plastic structure project with a hot iron.

[DKS]

Aleene's Original Tacky Glue. Works on painted interior surfaces, won't fog window glazing. Easily removable if you mess up or get clumsy. Also holds window shades, etc. Available in any crafts store or crafts department of any store. Long shelf life. I've had the same 4oz bottle that I found in a box of crafts supplies my wife brought home from her school years ago. Cheap. I looked at the price of picking up a new bottle a while back, about two bucks.

+1

[mmagliaro]

I like the Tacky Glue idea (although I have never used that particular brand).  I HAVE used the WS "Foam Tack Glue".
Works great.  Rubbery, doesn't mess or fog the clear plastic.   I have also used Walthers Goo.  That WILL
mess or fog the plastic if you get it on a part that's visible, but usually that is not a problem.  A few dabs around the edge,
place the plastic carefully with tweezers so you won't have to slide it around, and it's done.   I have buildings
with glued acetate windows done with Goo that are nearing 20 years old, and the windows are still
stuck really fast in there with no brittleness in the cement at all.

Rubbery, flexible glues are best for this, because over time, things dry out, get brittle, and crack off, and nothing
is more frustrating than the clear pane falling out from inside a wall you cannot get to.

[jimmo]

Rubbery, flexible glues are best for this, because over time, things dry out, get brittle, and crack off, and nothing
is more frustrating than the clear pane falling out from inside a wall you cannot get to.

It may be too late for some of your older structures but every one of my structures are designed to separate at the foundation and are totally accessible for just such situations.

I'm not sure about the longevity of Aleene's, but the glue on the windows I have used it on show no signs of deterioration after close to 10 years.

[MichaelWinicki]

I simply dab the end of a toothpick in some Gloss Medium, drop a few dots around the window frame and apply the "window" with tweezers. 

[Catt]

+1 for both Aleene's and the gloss medium.I have used both with great success.The biggest advantage I have found to both of these is that is possible to remove the window "glass" for replacement if necessary.