Backdrop material

[nscalemike]

Has anyone here used aluminum coil flashing for backdrops?  Is it easy to paint and will the paint hold up?  I have always used hardboard and that is what I currently have.  However, since I put it up last summer it has expanded and now it is wavy.  I am getting ready to finish the backdrop so I was going to rehang the hardboard that is there now.  However, it is only 12" tall, plenty tall enough for my 57" tall shelf layout but when I started to figure in a 3"-3 1/2" fascia board along the light valance that was going to cut the viewing window down to 8 1/2"-9".  So now I am thinking of making the backdrop a bit taller.  Initially, I was going to by more hardboard and cut new strips but then I thought about using the flashing.  Advantages I can see with the flashing is a 50' roll will take me all the way around the room with no waste, no seams, easy to cove the corners tight  (there are square now and I would only look at about a 3" radius) no cutting and I will save myself the 1/4" on the 11" layout shelf.  It comes 14" tall and will only be about $5 more expensive then the sheets of hardboard. 

I don't think I need the backdrop to be any taller than 14" since I believe the tallest building is a grain elevator which is only about 9".  Granted, I still will leave myself only about 11" viewing window but I think that will be perfect based on the short depth and just below eye level.

Oh and one more thing . . . . since I have one more day off of work Tuesday, this is hopefully the first major project of the modeling season!
Quick replies appreciated!!

Thanks,
Mike

[Chris333]

I used flashing on my layout, it was 25' long. I painted it with a roller and it covered in 2 coats. You could chip it off with your fingernail, but it hasn't been a probelm. I didn't use a primer.

[SkipGear]

I have been considering using a plastic variation of the same. It comes in up to 30" wide rolls and seems it may be easier to work with than metal.

Here is one option. I have found a better source before but can't find the link now.

http://www.diyhomecenter.com/duraflash-vinyl-flashing/24-inch-vinyl-flashing-roll-stock.aspx

[LV LOU]

I've been using linoleum.It's canvas backed,so all colors can be used,just turn it around..It deadens sound,takes paint wonderfully,cuts easily,bends easy,and costs almost nothing.Most flooring stores sell it as cutoffs.I bought a 30 foot by 28 inch high piece for something like ten bucks..

[cv_acr]

IIRC one of the articles about Lance Mindheim's Miami switching layout mentioned aluminum for the backdrops.

[Philip H]

Ed K. had some rolled vinyl flashing up for the backdrop to his NCR layout.  It's white, comes in 50 ft by 24 in rolls, and cuts like styrene.  Plus there's no "dangerous" metal edge to deal with.

[bill pearce]

I would suggest that the flashing wasn't what expanded, but rather what it was fixed to shrunk. Was it affixed to wood? Bingo. Same thing that happens when track "expands" despite the fact that metal and plastic are far more stable than wood. Anyway, A frind and I built layouts at the same time. He used Masonite, I used Sheetrock. Guess whose broke up every joint? Yup, masonite. 1/4" rock is not as easy to bend, but it can be.

[mrp]

I used aluminum flashing on my layout, as there are no worries over seams and it bends easily. No primer was needed; just some blue paint. You can screw it (quick) or glue it (better appearance). You can get it at Lowes or Homes Depot, or if you need odd heights, on the internet.

Michael Pennie

[Ed Kapuscinski]

Yep, I love the vinyl version.

I actually just sent my second 30' of it home with Dave Foxx (since I don't need any more of it).

I'll try and get a photo of the packaging of it when I'm home.

[Dave Schneider]

So how do you guys attach the vinyl/aluminum/linoleum to the wall/furring strips? Adhesive or screws or ? I am contemplating my benchwork design at present and wondering how to handle this.

Best wishes, Dave

[Philip H]

Ed screwed his up in the corners, but with his light strings the screws fade into the walls

[Scottl]

I used 1/8" hardboard, taped and mudded a few seams and mounted it with drywall screws.  What I like about it is how easy it is to control the curvature due to the thickness, and the stability and uniformity in use.  Many vinyl and other thin stock backdrops can show irregularities if the installation is not perfect, especially if the lighting is not ideal.  The thickness of the wood prevents this considerably.  I was able to curve it down to an 11" radius, and any reasonable height is possible depending on how you cut it.  I bought mine at Home Depot and they ripped it for free into 16" heights using a professional saw (go on a quiet weeknight to avoid the "we don't do that" push back).

A second benefit that I discovered was that the edges are well suited to wear and tear.  One edge of mine gets some hits and glancing blows by people accessing a storage cupboard.  It won't bend or deform with these incidents and has stood up well in general.

Plus, at least where I live, hardboard is cheap, and the scrap is good for fascia board, the base of structures, benchwork, etc.

[conrail98]

Here's a blog post from Shaun from http://www.nscalemodelrailroad.com/ on how he attached his aluminum flashing to his brackets on one of his previous layouts:

http://www.nscalemodelrailroad.com/2007/05/20/level-1-in-place/

Phil