TheRailwire
General Discussion => 3D Printing => Topic started by: Chris333 on August 10, 2024, 06:09:00 PM
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https://www.elegoo.com/products/photopolymer-resin-detergent-5-kg
Folks here are smart :) What is this stuff? Says non-flammable, but there is a fire symbol on the container. Not that I care if it will catch fire or not. Just trying to figure out what it is.
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Says MSDS on the label, but I cannot find the info.
Folks on Amazon say it smells like fingernail polish remover and it seems to melt gloves.
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71NJooxJ5lL._SL1500_.jpg
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Here's the MSDS: https://download.elegoo.com/04%20LCD%20Printer/12%20Photopolymer%20Resin/Resin%20Cleaner/MSDS/MSDS-US%20Standard/CANEC23017537703(SZP23-034145)-Final-EN.pdf
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No thanks .. I'll stick to alcohol
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I dunno - the only part that seems appealing to me:
- Maintain Original Transparency & Details: The cleaned models retain their original transparency, integrity, and fine details after using our resin cleaner. Our formulation ensures that the cleaned model surfaces do not soften, whiten, or lose their intricate details.
If you can print and clean "windows" with this stuff I'd be down to try it out, but I'd have to see the results before I plunk down 40+ bucks on that experiment. I'll have to do some Googlin' now to see if anyone has used it specifically for optically clear prints.
-Mike
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I was just looking for a common name for this stuff to try without a brand name price.
Might work for clear stuff.
I see a few others saying that is doesn't separate resin and settle like Alcohol does. So when it gets a bunch of resin in it, it's done.
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I was just looking for a common name for this stuff to try without a brand name price. ...
There's nothing common about it. It seems to be an industrial chemist's witches' brew.
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Isopropyl alcohol and a Wash & Cure machine work just fine for me.
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Not Elegoo, but a review
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Isopropyl alcohol and a Wash & Cure machine work just fine for me.
I put my newly acquired wash station in the garage recently and use Denatured Alcohol now, which IMO works much better...
On parts with super fine detail, I also do a final "quick" rinse in Acetone, to eliminate as much excess resin and moisture from the printed parts. From what I've been told by an individual that did a lot of semi-scientific testing with 3D printing, you can minimize warping by cleaning your parts as soon as they're done printing, get them completely dry (where the Acetone comes in) and let them sit for at least 24hrs prior to final curing.
This individual is able to print long passenger cars for HOn30 that are more or less warp free... So he has to be onto something.
Jeff
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I blow all my stuff off with a cheap pistol grip air gun and a Harbor Freight air regulator on it so I don't get the full 90 PSI. I don't know how porous resin is or if I get all out.
I remember Kenji Toma asking me about prints changing dimensions once getting wet (like water based paints). No experiments on my end though.
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I exclusively use Denatured Alcohol now (also known as camping fuel). It cleans fast, the alcohol sludge is non-existent and it's in general much better all around. When it separates out the resin becomes kind of like a soft sand kind of texture. Just filter it out with a painting filter and get back to cleaning. I've all but stopped using alcohol.